Va Beach v20 project

reelapeelin said:
W/the splashwell in place, where does the water go that's gonna get into the boat?...sorry if I'm jumpin' ahead here>>>
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REEL to be honest with you Im kinda taking this part one step at a time. Im gonna build the splash box. and then temperally mount the motor and tanks and mock up average weight then splash it to see waterline and then figure it from there. Im now running into issues to were I cant trim my motor up If I build the false angled floor in the splash box. This part of the build is really becomeing a pain in the a$$!!!!!! I will figure it out step by step. This is the part you dont want to screw up on!!!!
 
Kracker Jack said:
REEL to be honest with you Im kinda taking this part one step at a time. Im gonna build the splash box. and then temperally mount the motor and tanks and mock up average weight then splash it to see waterline and then figure it from there. Im now running into issues to were I cant trim my motor up If I build the false angled floor in the splash box. This part of the build is really becomeing a pain in the a$$!!!!!! I will figure it out step by step. This is the part you dont want to screw up on!!!!
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Why are you adding a splashwell at all?...w/the sump in place, all the water's gonna wind up there...I think yer gonna find after you mock-up the weight and splash, your floor deck will be below water-level, so scuppers won't work...I believe it's all gonna be the bilge...which all the pre-'78s are and there ain't nothin' wrong w/that...
 
Heavy Duty. 1 and 1/2" thick splashwell walls before glassing. It would make a heck of a sturdy seat base, or a launch pad. All positives.
 
reelapeelin said:
Why are you adding a splashwell at all?...w/the sump in place, all the water's gonna wind up there...I think yer gonna find after you mock-up the weight and splash, your floor deck will be below water-level, so scuppers won't work...I believe it's all gonna be the bilge...which all the pre-'78s are and there ain't nothin' wrong w/that...
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Im trying to consolidate most of the transom wash with the splash box. Weight yes! The box I made is heavy as $hit! I was thinking about putting 2 brass tubes thru the transom and put a ball scupper on the outside, I can then plug the inside when fishing and under anchor,and when I'm running I can pull the plugs and drain water and I can also pull plugs when its on the trailer for rain water purposes.the 2 drains would be deck level on either side of the splash box.
 
Kracker Jack said:
Im trying to consolidate most of the transom wash with the splash box. Weight yes! The box I made is heavy as $hit! I was thinking about putting 2 brass tubes thru the transom and put a ball scupper on the outside, I can then plug the inside when fishing and under anchor,and when I'm running I can pull the plugs and drain water and I can also pull plugs when its on the trailer for rain water purposes.the 2 drains would be deck level on either side of the splash box.
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Like you said...you'll have to determine w/a mock-weight/splash test...hope it works out for you..lotta nice work there...:beer:
 
reelapeelin said:
Like you said...you'll have to determine w/a mock-weight/splash test...hope it works out for you..lotta nice work there...:beer:
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Do I necessarly have to make it go in the bilge? I dont want my bilge open to any deck water at all I just dont feel comfortable doing that. why not just put the structual grate over the sump with a bilge pump in the sump with a float switch and let it just pump its self out as needed. I would love to keep the back wide open with no splash box to get in my "fishing zone"
 
Kracker Jack said:
Do I necessarly have to make it go in the bilge? I dont want my bilge open to any deck water at all I just dont feel comfortable doing that. why not just put the structual grate over the sump with a bilge pump in the sump with a float switch and let it just pump its self out as needed. I would love to keep the back wide open with no splash box to get in my "fishing zone"
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Go way back in this thread...that's what I thought you were doing back then...LOL!!...that's EXACTLY what I was talkin' about...a grate over the sump w/a couple of SUBSTANTIAL bilge pumps to keep it all dry...no box (or the weight )
 
Im the happiest man in the world!!! the most expensive item for this boat and the item I dreaded buying the most has fallen into my hands at a unbelievible price!!!! The Guy just call me who im buying my t-top from and said $200.00 !!! I about jumped thru the roof!!! Im getting a all aluminum t-top that ironically was orginally custom made for a v20. The guy might be joining the forum he owns a v20 slapping. after purchasing this top I will be right at 700.00 dollars on this build. I have a budget of around 1500.00 dollars. The 1500.00 does not include outfitting with electronics( I already have a really nice lowrance bottom machine Thats brand new and still in the box).:hide:
 
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Kracker, after dozens of opinions,, I would like yours, what did you end up using to glue your stringers in?

I was thinking of using a bunch of pl glue and fileting the edge with the excess, then coming back with 1708 oooorrr rubber 1/8" spacers and thickened resin to bed it and fillet.

It looked like you left the bottom 1" of your original stringers glass to hold the new in place, is that right? If so, did you leave the entire channel or just pieces to hold the stringer in place?
 
tartuffe said:
Kracker, after dozens of opinions,, I would like yours, what did you end up using to glue your stringers in?

I was thinking of using a bunch of pl glue and fileting the edge with the excess, then coming back with 1708 oooorrr rubber 1/8" spacers and thickened resin to bed it and fillet.

It looked like you left the bottom 1" of your original stringers glass to hold the new in place, is that right? If so, did you leave the entire channel or just pieces to hold the stringer in place?
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Numerous guys I talked to in the begining used pl. I was gonna go that route simply because I didn't know much about additives and thickners. After doing more studying and research I learned to use thickeners. I would cabosil your resin and glue it like that,then make your fillets with the same mix then layup your glass. My stringers are bullet proof using that method. Your pl wount do ya much good as fillets in my opinion. I'm am no professional either
 
t-top

Heres the t-top i purchased. Yes its old school and has a boxy design but its built like a bull moose! but for 200.00 dollars im not gonna complain.
 

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Ya, yer right...that blue trash can in the background does have a boxey look. As to the T top, it just looks sweet,...and at a really good price too. Congrats on a smart purchase!! :clap:
 
Not bad, not bad at all. Try coastal canvas down in morehead (maybe Harkers Island) when you get ready to buy the canvas top. He was cheaper than anythig I found online and he takes alot of pride in the grommets and stitching. Tons of colors to choose from although I recommend the Pirates purple with gold thread.
 
I think once you get new paint and canvas on it, that top's gona be GREAT!!..Are you gonna paint it white??...I got a buddy w/an Everglades w/a white top...looks GREAT!!...:clap:

You gonna make yer own canvas?...there's a video online shows the whip-stitch all around to hold it in place...:beer:
 
reelapeelin said:
I think once you get new paint and canvas on it, that top's gona be GREAT!!..Are you gonna paint it white??...I got a buddy w/an Everglades w/a white top...looks GREAT!!...:clap:

You gonna make yer own canvas?...there's a video online shows the whip-stitch all around to hold it in place...:beer:
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Yea I'm gonna paint white. I'm doing my aluminum prep and primer research as we speak. And yes I'm gonna white,white frames on t-tops look awesome. I think I'm gonna give a hard top a go! I'm gonna make my own. I'm researching light core material also as we speak..
 
Kracker Jack said:
Yea I'm gonna paint white. I'm doing my aluminum prep and primer research as we speak. And yes I'm gonna white,white frames on t-tops look awesome. I think I'm gonna give a hard top a go! I'm gonna make my own. I'm researching light core material also as we speak..
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Actually you'd probably want an off-white of some description...What color you gonna put on the boat?

A canvas top would be much LIGHTER which is a certain consideration on any 20' boat...
 
reelapeelin said:
Actually you'd probably want an off-white of some description...What color you gonna put on the boat?

A canvas top would be much LIGHTER which is a certain consideration on any 20' boat...
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I have a buddy that does tops,curtains and apolstry. His name is Charlie Petty with Petty Marine. He would do the canvas for me. My boat is gonna be Fighting Lady Yellow(sides) white vc performance epoxy(bottom) and Off white inside the boat
 
Proper primer for aluminum is zinc chromate. Two coats, first coat up and down, second coat side to side..that way there are no highlights. There are several other types also, including epoxies, but the US Navy uses zinc chromate ... and most of their equipment seems to get a lot of salt usage for some reason.
 
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Destroyer said:
Proper primer for aluminum is zinc chromate. Two coats, first coat up and down, second coat side to side..that way there are no highlights. There are several other types also, including epoxies, but the US Navy uses zinc chromate ... and most of their equipment seems to get a lot of salt usage for some reason.
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Good info. Thanks Destroyer.
 
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