Va Beach v20 project

[tartuffe]

Since you asked about aesthetics I would nix the rod holder idea. Have the rod holders welded to your t-top. Structurally every one you add will be stronger than my 81 that has stood the test of time through some heavy seas (not by choice). I would think your strength is in the gunnel cap.

If I think about it too long I could argue not putting them in there at all but I of course am no expert. I think I could argue reinforcing the bow to where the flare ends with layers of glass for rigidity and relying on the cap and floor for gunnel support.

 

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some more pics of the gunwale supports. My cap is gonna taper from a full 12 inches at the transom to 8 1/2 continueing thru out the rest of the boat, so my supports look like they do because of this. It still looks kinda funky to me but i think it will look better once the cap is on.

 

[Kracker Jack]

Since you asked about aesthetics I would nix the rod holder idea. Have the rod holders welded to your t-top. Structurally every one you add will be stronger than my 81 that has stood the test of time through some heavy seas (not by choice). I would think your strength is in the gunnel cap.

If I think about it too long I could argue not putting them in there at all but I of course am no expert. I think I could argue reinforcing the bow to where the flare ends with layers of glass for rigidity and relying on the cap and floor for gunnel support.

Yea im not gonna drill the holes for the holders.

 

[Kracker Jack]

paint and fair

Well I have a paint schedule finally. Im gonna be using all Interlux products starting on the bottom with a white VC PERFORMANCE EPOXY, moving up the sides with a epoxy primekote primer and Interlux Perfection Fighting Lady Yellow topcoat. The caps and inside will also be primed with epoxy primekote and top coated with Interlux perfection Artic White. Im also open to using a durabak 18 white bedliner for non skid or a Grizzly grip product. Im also gonna sandblast my t-top then use a Interlux prime wash and then prime with Interprotect 2000E epoxy primer with a finish coat of Perfection Artic White.

i have been experimenting with the 3m glass bubbles I bought, and making fairing compounds. I think its alot better to make your own rather than buying it and alot more cost effective. I can make 2 1/2 gallons of fairing compound for right at $115.00.

 

[tartuffe]

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300 so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

 

[Kracker Jack]

Oh I'm definitely spraying. I painted my skiff,my old 24ft seaox,and the Albemarle and a bunch of stuff. I'm pretty good with spray gun. I have a good friend who paints cars for a living and pretty much taught me how to spray

 

[Kracker Jack]

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300 so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

I'm gonna have right at $380.00 just in product,I don't think that's bad at all. I was given a free gps for the boat today so that opens the budget big time!

 

[Kracker Jack]

I made my chase box at the transom yesterday, and yes its boxy and yes its gonna hold water in that corner but i really dont have a choice. I had plans of building that splash box witch would have incoporated the chase box in the corner.

I also built and routered my ridgid teak grate over my sump well, I made it with some scrap teak that came off of an old bow rider that is scraped. It turned out awesome.

 

[jasoncooperpcola]

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!!
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. AND raise the floor if i need to.

 

[reelapeelin]

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!......fun to watch the progress!!...

 

[Kracker Jack]

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!!
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. AND raise the floor if i need to.

I have learned alot also!!! when I started this project I pretty much knew nothing about this kind of work. I owned my own buisness for 8 years doing residential remodle and light duty commercial work, so working with wood all my life and having what I like to call "VISION" made it pretty easy to catch on. I also did alot of studying and researching on the internet. Thank for the compliments. She gonna be battle ready soon I hope!!!

 

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!......fun to watch the progress!!...

Reel I have decided to put a removable transom type splash board in this boat. As you can see with the black lines i photo shopped in the picture shows that the board will span the whole beam port to starboard. Will be about 14 to 16 inches tall and will be offset to the transom side of the sump well allowing deck water to drain into the sumpwell. The splash board will also have garage door type rubber gasket under it to reduce fatigue on the floor and ultimately keep water that comes over the transom in the general area until it can wash into the sumpwell and be pumped out. The beautiful thing about this setup is that its removeable. I am going to be making in out of a 2 inch micro-lam beam that will be glass with 1708 to encapsulate.

 

[Kracker Jack]

When you start a project evryone always has a vision of what they want there project to look like. I have had a vision of what my v20 was gonna look like since the day I saw it sitting in that cow pasture. Ironicly a guy On THT forum sent a picture of his v20 to my build thread after reading that I was gonna paint it fighting lady yellow and also paint the bottom white. when I looked at the picture of his boat I thought I was looking at a ghost!!!!! It looked exactly like I wanted my v20 to look like Except for some things which I photo shopped his picture tonight. I made the t-top white and instead of a black boat stripe I want a dual white boot stripe. Here is the picture I photo shopped. Its beautiful and is exactly how my rig will look when finished

 

[reelapeelin]

...and that Float On trailer is EXACTLY like mine except he's got smaller diameter wheels/tires...ghost pic for sure...

Kracker...no matter how the stern area of a boat is configured, the wrong wave at the wrong time can be a problem for ANY boat...but I'm lookin' at the sump-well open to the deck AHEAD of the splash-wall you propose and scratchin' my ol punkin head...if enough water comes over the tranny to fill
'er up, it's just gonna shoot up and out the sump-well in front of the wall, so it really doesn't accomplish much to install the wall...

Another question...is the sump-well open to receive water that'll get under the floor deck...if not, when water gets under the floor, where's it gonna go?...I'm afraid yer gonna tell me all that's sealed off and water cannot get in there...

 

[Kracker Jack]

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

 

[reelapeelin]

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

 

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

Reel I completely agree with you on the pumps,I will drop and 1100 rule in the sump and in the bilge. The worst conditions I have ever been in was in my dads v20 during our small boat marlin tournament here out of va beach. And I been on my dads v20 and we have taken it where v20's don't belong, the furthest we fished my dads v was 58 miles off the beach up in the " Fingers" tuna and white marlin fishing with acid jugs filled with gas strapped to the console. And burning numerous external red moeller tanks on the way out. So yes you are right, conditions can change at the drop of a hat. Reel I always appreciate all your advice and thanks for all help and input.

 

[spareparts]

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

 

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

Thanks for the info Spare. Me and you actually spoke about this bilge pump set up on the phone.

 

[RidgeRunner]

X2 What Spare said. The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated. I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20. One of the automatic switches is higher than the other. I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat. The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off. If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge. I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller. I am OCD about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again. I started with an 800 and a 1000.