reelapeelin
God
Nice work, Kracker...lookin' good...can't wait to see to progress on this...
Va Beach v20 project
- Thread starter Kracker Jack
- Start date
Kracker Jack
God
Kracker Jack
God
Is there anyway I can move this thread over to the repair section? or is it ok to keep posting here?
reelapeelin
God
For my money you can leave it right here...this is GREAT!!...if this work ain't on point,I don't know what is...
Keep it up!!...gonna be fun to watch...
If I can make another suggestion...my old '74 had the single drain hole centered in the splashwell as yours does...while you are about making improvements, you might think about closing that up and putting two drain holes to each side of the motor...the 1st motor I had on that boat blocked that center location and was a constant PIA...that was the subject of my 1st post here in 2003...MacoJoe jumped my a$$ and said JUST DO IT!!...
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Kracker Jack
God
no wonder transoms rot out in these rascals so soon if there not done right, the bilge holds water 3 or so inches deep and can not drain. so should I keep it the same height as the sump box, or should i drop the height a little so that it drains more efficiently?
RidgeRunner
God
I found putty next to the factory skin on my 1983. I did the putty and transom clamps on mine. I used matt on hatches where the skin was laid out on a work table and the core and skin were perfectly flat and it worked great. The transom is anything but flat on the Wellcraft so putty is easier IMO. Both ways will work. Laying glass in the corners of the transom where you still have a little of the inner skin (due to the floor being in the way and such) will prove very difficult. Putty could be easily troweled into tough spots, fabric can be used to laminate the plywood together for the core. I made a three piece transom out of core material because my transom had such a curvature. The wings were laid first and the overlapping center core was clamped in place last. Putty was oozing out around the perimiter everywhere. Put the gloves on and wiped the excess with my finger (like it was caulk) to form a radius on all the transitions (filleting). After it kicked it made laying the inside skin a breeze. I did the same across the top of the core because I made the 83 a full transom where the core stopped a few inches from the top of the transom. You need to add quality fiberglass to the places you intend to extend the transom height. Fairly critical because you are going to be hanging the motor from that area.
Single scarf ========\ \________________/ /===============
BEST Double scarf ======> >=============< <==============
Double scarf requires work inside the hull before adding core.
Google scarf joint for a better visual. The stringers look gone at the stern, what about the rest of them?
Single scarf ========\ \________________/ /===============
BEST Double scarf ======> >=============< <==============
Double scarf requires work inside the hull before adding core.
Google scarf joint for a better visual. The stringers look gone at the stern, what about the rest of them?
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Kracker Jack
God
Im replacing the stringers also. they have been removed and are being set up as we speak
RidgeRunner
God
You are fast. Looks like destruction and prep are not a problem for you. Great thread. Great pictures.
reelapeelin
God
The only hole I see in the pics is the drain hole for the SPLASHWELL...on second look, I don't even see a bilge drain hole...that should be no more than an inch or less above bottom of bilge...
Is pouring w/Arjay a consideration on the stringers?...not an encouragement to go so, just a question...
Kracker Jack
God
I plan on putting in a bildge drain plug. do i need a splash well plug? im doing a traditional stringer system. ridge i guess im gonna cut the sides back and then glass them in when i do my progresive lap around the sides.
reelapeelin
God
Well that kind of what I've been tryin' to say...that hole is the splashwell drain...water gets in and has to drain back out...except it's blocked by the motor bracket and doesn't work well...needs one on each side of the motor...no, ya don't wanna plug 'em
I don't see a bilge drain hole in your pics...should be in center about 1"or so from bottom of bilge...
Kracker Jack
God
Ordered 18 yards of 1708,4 gallons of polyester resin from a friends uncle in moyock,nc yesterday. just been doing a bunch prep work. Do I need to grind back all the gellcoat were my tie in points are gonna be? Thats alot of grinding and sanding. I guess my question is can you glass over roughed up gel coat? or does all of it have to come off? I read on other forums that glassing over gelcoat will depreciate the strength of the bond to the surface.
Kracker Jack
God
The word of today is "ITCHY"!!!!!! More prep work today. I read these post over and over and the phrase that sticks in my head is "prep work is key to a sucessfull project" I have decided to go with a 25" transom and im buying a spacer for my 20" lower end. my old lady bought me a seperate clothes hamper for my boat working clothes, she went to work the other morning itching her butt off after washing her clothes with some that i worked on the boat with. LOL!!!!! SHE WAS BENT!!! Will post some pics of my work today later
Destroyer
God
One word... Tyvec. Buy yourself some Tyvec work suits. They are disposable jumpsuits that cover all your clothes and keep the glass dust off of you. They are cheap priced compared to a bent wife. (Hell, anything is cheap compared to a bent wife) They cost about $4 each, less in bulk. But seriously they really are good protection, especially when doing glass work. Just wear them, then use them again if still good, or just throw them away... end of problem.
Kracker Jack
God
More transom prep. Is it ok to add some 1708 to the inside of the skin on the transom to thicken the skin before i glue my first sheet of ply? I had to grind a good bit of "dry" unsaturated chop strand to get down to a good surface for adhesion purposes. I have read the factory thickness of the outer skin should be about a 3/16 to a 1/4 of an inch.
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Kracker Jack
God
I have 2 tyvec suits in the garage and didnt even think about them. I used them to paint my motorcycle frame. Thats perfect destroyer!!! mine even have hoods to keep that crap off my neck!!!
spareparts
God
rub your arms and neck down heavy with baby powder before you start grinding, I don't know what it does, but it sure prevents itching from glass
Destroyer
God
When you work your pores open to allow your skin to sweat and cool your body. The glass fibers get into them and cause the itch. Baby powder fills your pores. It prevents the majority of the glass particles from getting caught in them, which in turn prevents you from itching.
(Long, long ago, I worked as an insulation installer and had that explained to me by a "veteran" installer. I quit that job after a month...)
Kracker Jack
God
Ok so im ready to build my transom. I have searched and searched and read thread after thread about a lay up schedule for my transom. Can someone please talk me into a schedule for glass and resin for my outboard 25" transom. I have read so many different ways of tackling this transom and what kind of glass and what ounce to use. Im using polyester and im looking to do either a old school layup or use a new school layup with 1708. I want simple and functional. guys thank you so much in advanced.