my project wellcraft 180 fisherman

updates

some updates after my problem with the motor i found out i will have to rebuilt the carbs and replace the REED BOX ASSY some of them are bad i took some time to take everything apart and to finish some of the stuff i had in mind like my diy t-top and the placement of the gas tank i will not replace the old one for now i will be using a portable one so i can keep and eye on the water situacion well here are some pics for now

t-top






gas tank this is just temp but i think it will work good there



carbs

 
some pics of the parts i use in the t-top








this is how i install the new gas tank and new filter this time i put it outside


 
upgrates

this is something i add it a few weeks ago but i had not show it yet this is my solar panel and charger





this will keep my battery's with mos of the charge i can switch from bat#1 to bat#2 or i can keep charging 1 and 2 as a tenderizer

this is how it looks on the water

 
Dang, that's a small solar panel. Reading the post I figured it would be much larger and mounted on the "T" top till I saw your pic of it on the engine cowl. What's the output on that thing? 12v @ ?
 
Destroyer said:
Dang, that's a small solar panel. Reading the post I figured it would be much larger and mounted on the "T" top till I saw your pic of it on the engine cowl. What's the output on that thing? 12v @ ?
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i was able to get and 18v output i know is small but to keep the battery's charge is good for now. i hate to not use the boat for a few weeks and not having charge in the battery's i will try to make a system to be able to use the radio and electronics with just a solar panel and a battery
 
mannydvk11 said:
i was able to get an 18v output i know is small but to keep the battery's charge is good for now. i hate to not use the boat for a few weeks and not having charge in the battery's i will try to make a system to be able to use the radio and electronics with just a solar panel and a battery
Click to expand...

I see on the controller you have unused terminals for loads (like a radio, LED lights, etc) which is why I was asking about the milliamp rating of the solar panel. I was just wondering if it could keep up with the draw of items like that during an outing. It's a nice clean set-up the way you have it and certainly makes me wonder about how I power certain items in my own boat.
 
Destroyer said:
I see on the controller you have unused terminals for loads (like a radio, LED lights, etc) which is why I was asking about the milliamp rating of the solar panel. I was just wondering if it could keep up with the draw of items like that during an outing. It's a nice clean set-up the way you have it and certainly makes me wonder about how I power certain items in my own boat.
Click to expand...

i am totally new at this solar stuff i will like to have my panel to charge and be able to use it at least with on the GPS,stereo and vhf radio
 
corection this is the info of the panel 12V,1260mW,Charge rate: 70mA,Height: 6.5 in,Width: 7.0 in. All Weather Proof - Protected against wind, rain, salt air, and solar radiation, UV
 
well i took it out for a bit after reparing the motor addit new reed vlves new carbs parts gaskets new gas and feul lines filter wow lots of new stuff any way here is a pic of the boat in the water



 
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looks like you are doing a great job, One thing what type of fuel lines did you use , some have big problems with the ETHANOL in the fuel they tend to rot and leak much sooner then the gray ones ?
 
GREYWOLF said:
looks like you are doing a great job, One thing what type of fuel lines did you use , some have big problems with the ETHANOL in the fuel they tend to rot and leak much sooner then the gray ones ?
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well according to the guys at the marine store this one is good to use with ethanol i had the gray ones but i was having a problem it kink to much so i was having flow problem
 
I hear you I used to use the black automotive hose but several of my outboards had carb problems with crap from the fuel lines , I went to the new grey type ,did have some problems with kinking in hot weather, but no contamination in the carbs, the trick is to rout the hose with no sharp bends
 
GREYWOLF said:
I hear you I used to use the black automotive hose but several of my outboards had carb problems with crap from the fuel lines , I went to the new grey type ,did have some problems with kinking in hot weather, but no contamination in the carbs, the trick is to rout the hose with no sharp bends
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yes you are right ill see how this ones will go and then ill get the gray ones my problem with the one i had it was short so i just replace them
 
gas tank Q?????

randlemanboater said:
Very nice job on your boat...it looks great!
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thanks

guys i have a Q?

any one know why this tank gets like a balloon and when i am running the boat it collapse what can i do to prevent this , and also should i use that gray valve you see in the picture o its better with out it

 
all the new tanks do it, they have a pressure valve on the vent to meet emission standards. Ive got np idea what that grey valve is, did it come with the tank?
 
All the portable tanks I've ever used had a vent in the fill cap to prevent swelling/contracting.

But they always spilled gas when near full so I guess thats why the new tanks dont have them?
 
The tank expands and contracts due to internal and external pressures placed on it. Gas expands much more than water in warm weather or direct sunlight, so the tank bulges as the pressure builds internally. As warm gas gets cooler it contracts, creating a lower pressure inside the tank than outside, so outside pressure pushes on the walls of the tank and gives the tank the appearance of collapsing. This also happens when an unvented tank is being used while running. As the gas is pulled from the tank by your fuel pump it creates a vacuum inside the tank and again, the external pressure of the air will push on the tank walls giving it the appearance of collapsing.

Looking at your picture I can see what appears to be a vent in the middle of the cap without the hose attached to it, where you fill the tank with gas. Open it slightly and it will release internal pressure when the gas expands due to becoming hotter, and allow external air pressure to enter as the gas cools, stopping the bulging and collapsing of the tank walls.

Like the others, I really have no positive knowledge of what that grey thing on the hose is, although it looks like a type of pressure regulator. My guess would be it's used to prevent pressurized fuel from an unvented tank squirting out of the engine end of the hose when coupling or uncoupling the hose from an engine. Early 6 gallon metal gas cans used a pressurized molded 2 hose fuel deliver system to deliver fuel to the engine. But the problem was, because it was pressurized, if there was a leak it would spray raw gas all over, creating a dangerous fire hazard. To solve that they went to a single hose with the bulb that we all know and love....but the problem with that system is if gas in the tank isn't vented, it can create pressure within the gas line, and when the hose is being attached or disconnected it can spray raw gas all over. NOT good if you are hooking up a second tank of gas to a hot engine. So I'm pretty sure that's what it is. And it's automatic, so you don't have to do anything to it. Just leave it alone and let it do it's job.
 
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Destroyer said:
The tank expands and contracts due to internal and external pressures placed on it. Gas expands much more than water in warm weather or direct sunlight, so the tank bulges as the pressure builds internally. As warm gas gets cooler it contracts, creating a lower pressure inside the tank than outside, so outside pressure pushes on the walls of the tank and gives the tank the appearance of collapsing. This also happens when an unvented tank is being used while running. As the gas is pulled from the tank by your fuel pump it creates a vacuum inside the tank and again, the external pressure of the air will push on the tank walls giving it the appearance of collapsing.

Looking at your picture I can see what appears to be a vent in the middle of the cap without the hose attached to it, where you fill the tank with gas. Open it slightly and it will release internal pressure when the gas expands due to becoming hotter, and allow external air pressure to enter as the gas cools, stopping the bulging and collapsing of the tank walls.

Like the others, I really have no positive knowledge of what that grey thing on the hose is, although it looks like a type of pressure regulator. My guess would be it's used to prevent pressurized fuel from an unvented tank squirting out of the engine end of the hose when coupling or uncoupling the hose from an engine. Early 6 gallon metal gas cans used a pressurized molded 2 hose fuel deliver system to deliver fuel to the engine. But the problem was, because it was pressurized, if there was a leak it would spray raw gas all over, creating a dangerous fire hazard. To solve that they went to a single hose with the bulb that we all know and love....but the problem with that system is if gas in the tank isn't vented, it can create pressure within the gas line, and when the hose is being attached or disconnected it can spray raw gas all over. NOT good if you are hooking up a second tank of gas to a hot engine. So I'm pretty sure that's what it is. And it's automatic, so you don't have to do anything to it. Just leave it alone and let it do it's job.
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really good answer thank you very much now my other Q? after that answer is if i keep it open will gas evaporate and give me water problem in my tank o will water come in the tank trow the vent also if the tank is collapse will the motor have a problem like if is running with out gas o will it prevent the gas to circulate when is collapse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewXwbDiYacM here is a link on how the gray valve is suppose to do but am not sure if this is for my motor
 
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going back to number 11 i see you replaced the trim assembly , thats what i have to do was it hard to do i have a 150 mercury out board 1988 also got it from ebay but it didnt come yet
 
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