Transom repair - Here we go..... (long)

WOW, who is this guy ????, look at all I have missed !!!. Great work man, Hats off to ya. Cant believe the cost either, and the time as well you saved. I must have put out $1800.00 to redo my transom myself, plus the super long hours I put in as well.
Again, great job brother, glad to have ya hear as a member to help others out.
Hammer.
 
Wow . . . I think I'm a believer now on these pourable transoms. Looks great. Screw and glue method is about 3 days of full work (going through the outside skin), 5 gallons of resin, and two 4x8 sheets of 1/2" marine plywood (3 layers), Fiberglass Mat and tape . . . but if this will get'r done in 10 hours and requires less finish work . . . I'm in!!!
 
ok, heres a question I've been pondering over, what about combining the pourable transom with Coosa/Penske board. Cut pieces of coosa to loosely fit in the transom area, it doesn't have to be a close fit as the purable transom mix will fill in. Then pour the stuff in around the board, just wondering if there would be any weight savings, strength enhancements, or even cost savings. I've been trying to figure out a test to compare the feesability and strength as compared to straight pourable transom with spending too much $$$. Next time I'm at the fiberglass shop, I'm going to pick up some scrap coosa and part of an old transom, now if I only had the time
 
Spares I don't see why that wouldn't work. If you want super strong adhesion . . . then drill some 2" holes through the coosa . . . that will let the pourable resin pass through the large pieces.
 
Well guys, I guess I need to finish this thing up. As of 5:30 on Tuesday after Easter I haven't got the motor mounted back on yet. That is scheduled for this Saturday morning. Holidays with family over has slowed the process. I did however take the boat to a local fab shop and thry made the aluminum bracket to cover the transom. I know some of you would have just sanded and painted and not worried about the cap, but I wasn't comfortable with my finishing skills with glass. I set out to have an OEM look and I think I will accomplish that when all is said and done. I'm not that happy with the cap - its made out of thick material and id didn't fit as well as the original. I had to use alot of 5200, silicone and some big screws go hold it down, but she's not going anywhere. Hell, its just a transom cap - the motor will cover most of it.

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I'll post a final pic when I get the 175 back on.

Maury
 
Hear that crap? "Just a transom cap".
Man that thing looks great.
I finished mine off with Marine Tex and that was it.
 
My guess is that because of the thicker gauge aluminum, they cut three kerfs to allow it to form to the curve in the transom.
 
Yep, when I first saw it I was (and still am) wodering they cut the vertical flange and not the horizontal flange. Makes no sense to me. I would have cut notches out of the top, bent the piece, and welded the seams. But, I can't weld aluminum and for the price I guess I shouldn't complain. Pending rental of the engine hoist this weekend to remount the motor, I have right at $650 in the entire project.

Maury
 
Only $650.00 !!, man, you got off cheap. Great Job. I did mine the old skool way, but the modern times are taking over. great job Bro.
 
Gentlemen, the motor is back on. My wife and I used a engine hoist and a little muscle to get it lined up and mounted. I found my transom cap is so thick that the motor doesn't seat flush against the transom. I need to get some washers or aluminum scrap of the same thickness to level it out. Other than that, no problems. She cranked right up. I took the boat to get the front seats made (just like Lumber's), so I'll post final pics when I get it back. I'm very happy with the pourable transom product. I have a solid transom and I have no visable signs of repair. My top cap and inner liner are still in one piece. Longevity of the repair is yet to be determined. I hope everyone found the process useful. I'm sure I could have produced more pics, but......maybe next time.

Maury
 
Maury - Get a set of wedges from Bob's Machine shop. That will fix that problem and give you some good performance getting out of the hole. They're like $30 + shipping.

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mauryc said:
Gentlemen, the motor is back on. My wife and I used a engine hoist and a little muscle to get it lined up and mounted. I found my transom cap is so thick that the motor doesn't seat flush against the transom. I need to get some washers or aluminum scrap of the same thickness to level it out. Other than that, no problems. She cranked right up. I took the boat to get the front seats made (just like Lumber's), so I'll post final pics when I get it back. I'm very happy with the pourable transom product. I have a solid transom and I have no visable signs of repair. My top cap and inner liner are still in one piece. Longevity of the repair is yet to be determined. I hope everyone found the process useful. I'm sure I could have produced more pics, but......maybe next time.

Maury
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Maury, this was a great thread ..... I hope I never have to do it ! but if I do I will refer back to this thread.:sun::clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
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