Operation "Hatch Repair" underway

Looks good. Next time if you take a router and lower the bit about 1/4 inch and run it a round the edge of the wood then you can pull off the inner skin in one peice. Thats wht I have done and it seemed to work very well without all the grinding.

Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
 
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
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They must get it for free. But you'd think all the time to cut and place all the little squares would make it more costly.

Didn't they realize that was a bad idea? ::)
 
parishht said:
Just out of curiosity, how much will the completed project cost you?
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Good question. Here goes...1) resin and hardener, $20.00 (thanks Skools and Parker Boats) 2) Fiberglass Mat $0.00, it's good to know people that work at Hatteras Yachts 3) plywood $46.00 at Lowes, 4) dust masks, brushes, measuring cup and other misc stuff, $20.00. So far the grand total is $86.00. Just add labor (free cuz I'm doing it for me) and that is a real reasonable price for a repair.
 
Stillrunning said:
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
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I dunno, but that engineer needs his head examined. Every place that was cracked was right at a joint, go figure.
 
There wood in that there foam!

I was contemplating the whole foam thing, so I went and sat in the boat staring at the mess. I thought there was some wood cross supports somewhere in there, I mean who would just want to put all the weight transfer directly to the tank? Sure enough, I caught a glimpse of some wood and started digging around. I found 2 cross supports. They were totally soaked. Aww hell, I might as well dig 'em out so they can dry off.
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I removed at least 70 lbs of soaked foam. As you can see it took a good majority of the zinc chromate primer with it. I suppose I could clean it up real good and hit it with some other type of aluminum primer, being as zinc chromate is illegal nowadays. The good news is no sign of corrosion on the top of the tank ;D
 
Funny as hell when ya stated how you sat on the boat and stared at it. I do it all the time myself, hoping things might repair themselves. ;D
 
LOL, yeah, I do it to contemplate my next move. I like to think things through first. I am waiting to borrow a jigsaw from a buddy, that's why I didn't do anymore work on the hatch cover. I felt like I needed to do something for an hour. This fit the bill nicely.
 
Stillrunning said:
Does anyone know why Wellcraft uses these little 6x6 sections of plywood?
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Most boat builders back then bought scrap wood at yards and used them to build the caps and decks. it was cheapest way to build them. Also they had alot of scrap wood laying around back then from their molds frames. most all your 1973 to 1985 boats had that in the floors it slowly change over in alot of lines over the years to now but astill some do that to their caps and decks.
 
frayed, i removed & replaced the wooden braces on my tank. they were just sitting on top of the tank and held in place with the foam. if you do that, make sure the treated wood does not touch the tank, the chemicals in the wood will cause corrosion with the coating on the tank. i also cut some strips from an old boogie board and placed on top of the wood strips so the hatch sets slightly raised and when tightened down, it compressed the foam and gives a good snug fit. now is also a good time to redo the fastners, i did away with the screws and replaced with threaded screws and nuts
 
phatdaddy said:
gives a good snug fit.  now is also a good time to redo the fastners,  i did away with the screws and replaced with threaded screws and nuts
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Now Phat, you know this needs 'splainin. What kind nuts in this blind application?

Thank you for your attention to this matter sir ;)
 
If you dont smell gas, DO NOT REMOVE THE FOAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is a pain in the arse. Trust me , i pulled all my foam out . Huge job. Plus the replacement foam is very expensive. What your doing looks good though.

Scott
 
Phat, I'm wondering the same thing that Air mentioned. How would you use threaded screws/bolts and nuts?

Fray, my hat's off to you buddy. Nice work so far. Thank you for posting the step by step process. As said earlier, this thread (because of your attention to detail) will prove to be very helpful to many guys down the road.

About the cross supports, what's the difference between the direct transfer of weight from the cover and the transfer of weight to the cross supports that rest on the tank? I could see a difference if the cross supports were tied into the stringers or something, but as long as they're just sitting on the tank, do they really help? Just asking...
 
Re: Operation "Hatch Repair" und

HUCK nuts or spack nuts would work in an application like this.

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But, you need special tools to install.

Another option would be the clip nuts used in automotive applications.

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nightly repair porn

Aiight fellas, the next installment.

I had to borrow a jigsaw to cutout the holes. It's not my fault they are not round, I used a pencil to scribe the holes from the cover, that is how they cut it ;)
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Here is the cover with some plastic wrap over the holes (to keep the goo contained)
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And flipped over and acetone wiped.
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I didn't have the ability to get any pics of the goo going on, sticky stuff and cameras just don't go together. But here is the final product of tonights episode.
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Anything that has weight that I could find, or could hold water got piled on. Lower left corner, see that? That is an isolation transformer. Got a car battery, oh and an electric motor on there too. ;D
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