Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild

N

nymack66

God
Previously I have posted the failure of my power head and have since replace it with a rebuild which by the way is working great.
I traded two older motors at the time with PowerHead Exchange out of Tampa and kept my blown power-head with this project in mind.
I will start rebuilding/assembly it from prop up. Trust me this is going to be long term project or if the 49ers sucks on Sundays then it will progress faster.
The objective is to apply what I have learned and hopefully own a engine I can be proud of, I have done my home work in regards to acquiring the parts and everything plus sum for this project.
This weekend I hit jackpot with an identical year/make/model motor minus power head (blown) it is in very good condition.
I will post as I go along so far the power head was in a machine shop hone and corrected a single out of round cylinder. All cylinders are bored .30 over.
I will be experimenting with soda/media blasting starting with the Block and the rest of the parts, I opt out the acid bath method since I will still need to clean the rest of the parts for painting.
I am open for ideas on the painting and colors for both engine, LU, and cowling's.
If I bore anyone to death please pardon me, this for me personally it is a challenge whilst I know I am not re-inventing the wheel I am excited for now who knows down the road ?
Here she is all blown up!
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Same Block re-bore and so call clean I will soda blast it
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Lots of corrosion around the outer sleeves or water way ..
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The engine shop shave both heads one is perfect one is like below I will not use this since I now have one from the donor motor in excellent condition
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Perfect
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Wish me luck..
 
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I wish I had the time, I would rebuild my Evinrude 150.

Keep this thread going, maybe it will inspire me to shift my priorities.
 
Good luck NYMack. As far as painting and colors, I would go with with the original 1987 color scheme and cowling stickers.
 
parishht said:
I wish I had the time, I would rebuild my Evinrude 150.

Keep this thread going, maybe it will inspire me to shift my priorities.
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I will be happy to help you, Let me know what you need and we go from there maybe the parts are interchangeable in that case I have plenty of spares ..
 
Definately get that block decked. I can see where it would blow out a head gasket on 1 & 3. Carbs will be the critical part of any rebuild as they seem to cause most powerheads to fail.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Definately get that block decked. I can see where it would blow out a head gasket on 1 & 3. Carbs will be the critical part of any rebuild as they seem to cause most powerheads to fail.
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Can you explain to me please what to look for when you say decked ? The Block was worked on by a Machine shop and told me its good to go..I had concerns about the pitting around the sleeves close to the gasket area ? I will never second guess your words of wisdom..
Thanks Ferm
 
decked means where the heads bolt on have the block and cylinders cut down to get a better surface for the head gaskets to seal too. with your heads shaved it will run hot and plus eat starters due to raised compression. may be really hard to start when motor is warm due to the starter may not be able to turn over the motor. they do make a cylinder repair ring where you cut down the out block casting on the cylinder sleeves and you insert these rings so that your head gaskets will seal correctly. but you need new or good used heads. sell those to some poor other boater with low compression worn motor.
 
Skools Out said:
decked means where the heads bolt on have the block and cylinders cut down to get a better surface for the head gaskets to seal too. with your heads shaved it will run hot and plus eat starters due to raised compression. may be really hard to start when motor is warm due to the starter may not be able to turn over the motor. they do make a cylinder repair ring where you cut down the out block casting on the cylinder sleeves and you insert these rings so that your head gaskets will seal correctly. but you need new or good used heads. sell those to some poor other boater with low compression worn motor.
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Thanks for the explanation, I do have two heads not shaved so I will use those and sell the shaved ones, in regards to the rings you mentioned do you know where I can find it ? This is the only part that have me nervous and both you and Ferm the pros jumped on it I love it ..You Guys do know your stuff thanks for all the help. There is a Guy with 2 nice clean power heads both big bore bummer since I do NOT have parts for a big bore ..
 
That pitting around the sleeves on #1 and #3 can cause head gaskets to blow out like no tommorrow. When I say decked I prefer the method where they use the big sheet of sandpaper on a granite top. This way you only take off what is needed, most of the time it's less than .002 thousandths to clean one up this way. And the V-4 loopers have REALLY high compression to begin with, roughly 140-145 on a good healthy one. Mine pops off at 155 and it is a B!TCH to start up, it takes 2 good batteries to kick it over with 2 guage battery cables. But it will SCREAM on the top end:party:. Like I said earlier though, the carbs will drive you nuts most likely. Most everybody I've talked to has had problems after building one of these V-4 loopers and had to re-jet the carbs to fatten em up on the main and intermediate, but lean it out at idle.
 
OMC used to offer a thicker than standard head gasket for some of their motors for comercial use or when using lower octane fuel, I don't know if they are still available, but it would be what you need after decking the block.
 
good for you Mack, I would love to have the time and smarts to do that. Good luck and I hope it goes well for you. At the very least you will have learned a lot more than most of us will have ever learned.
 
Update

Thanks for the advise and the words of encouragements, You Guy's hit exactly on two issues I was having second thoughts about, one I can easily address just use the new heads I have, the other in regards to the corrosion around the sleeves???

My plans for now is to dissemble the LU and Mid only to the point where I will get to the critical bolts to make sure they are all in removable condition for future access etc, I don't want surprises later on.
It will also allow me to replace the impeller and inspect the water pump area not to mentioned drain the LU oil and inspection for contamination or metal shavings.
I will not use the tilt and trim off this motor, since I have one in immaculate condition with new motor, the one on here shows some corrosion.
I have since loosen the bolts on the mid and LU for soda blasting, I was soaking the bolts with PB Blaster since Sunday they are all loosen up now for removal, my tree shade mechanic last year worked on my old LU broke a number of bolts. See it pays to do this crap yourself.
Rocking the bolts back and forth never force it or make them overheat trust me they were tough removing but I score :)
Tip:
Be sure NEVER to have the PB blaster come in contact with any rubber example the end caps of the tilt and trim it will ruin the seals.
The installation of these bolts I will coat each one with High Temp Gasket Sealer so they can never freeze up, grease will not work here. One big word Electrolysis one simple fix! I have tried this on my propeller shaft and inspected it after a year slid off like poop out a goose.
Sorry the high resolution photos may shift the view off I will re-adjust the camera next time
Photos of Mid/LU
Notice the paint job ? Not good at all painted over the sealant and all.
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Ooh, you got one of them rare to find 25" ones that isn't rotted out yet. I've been looking for one of them for awhile now but they are all rotted out that I have found.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Ooh, you got one of them rare to find 25" ones that isn't rotted out yet. I've been looking for one of them for awhile now but they are all rotted out that I have found.
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Oh trust me I have been looking for while, I was just about to give up when I saw this ad on Craigslist
"Parting out a 1987 Evinrude 140 Looper (E140TXCUA).
Starter, carbs, electrical parts, crank, complete mid & lower unit with working PTT and transom bracket, OMC side control with wire harness and new 18’ control cables, OMC OEM factory manual, cowl & mid cowl, plus much more"
Guy told me he is parting out a good motor (blown power head) I negotiate him down to 400.00 and snag it on Black Friday.
I now own the only two models 140 v4 Evinrude made in 87 the 25" and 20" looks like I be stuck in the 80's for a while :)
 
willy said:
What do you mean rotted out, from the inside Ferm, the lower unit rots from the inside?
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The steering arms are made of regular steel and are known to rust so badly that they will break off, I believe STINK had this happen to him on one. Also just trying to find a 25" leg V-4 140 looper is difficult in and of itself, let alone one that looks clean without massive corrosion on it. The hardest one to find though is the 85 25" leg 140, they have a special exhaust tuner in them that you can't buy anymore. They make HUGE power on the top end, but suck below 3800. My 140 has the 85 tuner in it and it runs it's best at the 6100 redline(86+ went to a 6700 limiter). I bought one here awhile back and when it showed up I was less than thrilled with this supposed freshwater mid section. If you want to get rid of that mid NYMACK, let me know. I'd love to be able to put my 140 on my HYDRA-SPORTS to save some on fuel, but it is currently a 20" shaft.
 
Guys,
Below is a thought process I read on another blog strong believer in it.
"Having to rebuild a engine is fixing the symptoms of a failure, so one MUST find the reason for the failure and fix it, if not plan on fixing again"

With that said I will post the various things I find along the way some Evinrude CSI work :) if you will.

I may or may not find it or should be too concern because the baby will be built with care and love with a fine tooth comb, any future failure is mine to own, the buck stops here with me.

At the time of purchase the previous owner give me and I quote "Here is new set of plugs for the engine"
Trouble is this kind of plugs does NOT match the Evinrude plug recommend charts?
QL77YC
Funny I found on the Internet this plug matches a Mercury motor, which I saw in his yard mounted on 18' CC Wellcraft.
I also observe some scaring on the connecting rod journal on the #3 cylinder ?
Idle jets were jetted up .20 (Factory is .16) I did not check high speed as yet they should be .64 stock
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
The steering arms are made of regular steel and are known to rust so badly that they will break off, I believe STINK had this happen to him on one. Also just trying to find a 25" leg V-4 140 looper is difficult in and of itself, let alone one that looks clean without massive corrosion on it. The hardest one to find though is the 85 25" leg 140, they have a special exhaust tuner in them that you can't buy anymore. They make HUGE power on the top end, but suck below 3800. My 140 has the 85 tuner in it and it runs it's best at the 6100 redline(86+ went to a 6700 limiter). I bought one here awhile back and when it showed up I was less than thrilled with this supposed freshwater mid section. If you want to get rid of that mid NYMACK, let me know. I'd love to be able to put my 140 on my HYDRA-SPORTS to save some on fuel, but it is currently a 20" shaft.
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For you ? One word Absolutely!
I have a 20" on the V currently and I did cut down the transom as you remember during the rebuild for the current motor, the 25 " is perfect for you and your 20" floats my boat...
 
I didn't know that the v4's had the Bridgeport exhaust too in 86/87. Very cool motor . . . Even the rod slots look nice on that block . . . is that stock or did someone clean them up?
 
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