Anchor bow roller install

scook said:
It may not be relevant to how you use your anchors, but here’s my program:
When the rats got into my 3/8” line, I had already purchased 1/2” for easier grip (not for strength - the 3/8” held in very strong current, even bent my anchor when it got caught under a big rock). I now have a bunch of really nice rope to tie stuff on my truck.
I have three lengths of anchor line for different depths. This is so I don’t have a huge gob of line to toss overboard with a float when we drop off the anchor to play a fish and can come back to the same spot.
I connect the line to the chain with an openable link, so I can switch lines easily and it lets me leave the chain on deck, coiled around the bow cleat and drop the line into a basket in the cuddy.
This works for me, probably because I’ve rigged the sliding hatch to come completely off and stow in a rack under the deck - those hatches are a big pain for doing anchor work.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you definitely have it sorted out!
 
Destroyer said:
WHY are you using chain, or is that just for the end of the rode? And for heavens ske, why 5/16"? This is a 20 foot boat that at best could be called either light weight or medium weight. It's not a heavy weight boat, and even if it were, for it's length you would only be using 3/16 PC (Proof Coil) chain with 3/8 nylon rope.

Personally, I like and use 1/2" nylon rope with 1/4 PC chain at the end, mostly because I like how it feels in my hands, NOT because of additional strength. Just pay attention to your line length (8:1 ratio) and you'll have no problems. Here's a good link for info on chain, line and all the hardware you will need. https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Upgrading-Your-Anchor-Rode
Click to expand...


I am not using chain, Just for the end of the rode. The deck pipe is for chain, but i figured i would get a bigger opening. I was wavering between 5/8 and 1/2 for the rope and decided might go bigger based on what i was reading on the interweb :head:. So the chain is half the dia of the rope and that's where i came up with the 5/16. I guess it's not too late, I can still return the rope via amazon. I guess I could step down to 1/2" rope and 1/4" inch chain like your setup. I guess i wanted to be safer than sorry
 
SkunkBoat said:
5/8" line is way too much. Bigger is not better.

Too expensive when someday you have to cut off (and your expensive anchor)...
You need too much room to store it!
300ft only gets you 60ft deep on a nice day. You'll be lucky to get 300ft of 5/8" in there.

3/8 ...7/16" is nice for pulling.

1/4" chain. 15' of 5/16 is too heavy.

That deck pipe will not fit chain. I have one in the 'never gonna use this" pile in my garage. You need the bigger round one or the oval one. I drilled a hole in deck and inside cabin to get to anchor locker. used a piece of cheap landscape drainage pipe siliconed between holes.

I saw a picture on the Mantis site of a Mantis in the same pivoting roller as mine.

here is a pic of the deck pipe
Click to expand...


I understand, I was just trying to be conservative. Like i said before I might go with 1/2" rope and 1/4" chain. I had to get a better setting anchor because I am not good at it and the danforth i had has pulled loose a couple of times especially when it was not a sandy bottom. With the kids on board I want to make sure its as safe as possible. I also don't usually anchor in 20-30 ft depth, rarely in 60 ft water except at the lake and that in fairly calm conditions.

So with the deck pipe did you have to run a pipe inside too? It's manual pulling right now from my end, so I was just hoping to just install that on top pull up the rope and then feed it into the anchor locker from the cuddy once done. I am actually thinking i might put the deck pipe on the sliding top.. will post some pics once I have that figured out :head:
Would you mind posting a pic of the installation from the inside when you have a chance, there really isn't much info out there on how to install in the WWW.

Much obliged,
Cheers
Ashok
 
scook said:
Intuitively, the roller would bear the vertical vector force and the cleat the horizontal. If you’re not in much of a current, those forces shouldn’t be much of an issue. Out here in the Columbia River it’s a very big deal - an anchor rope fouled in the propeller, so the boat is anchored at the stern can and has sunk boats.
Click to expand...


Current can be a bit of an issue in the Bay here, depending on where and when I guess.

Thanks so I guess I should plan on the roller bearing forces. so the chucks in the side won't be used anymore i guess, just the bow cleat.


Much obliged,
Cheers
Ashok
 
In the river here, the Salmon and Steelhead tend to travel in very narrow seams, almost single file. We use the chucks or sometimes a short line off the chuck or bow rail stanchion to pull the anchor line off center to angle the boat and move it a little sideways, trying to position over the lane the fish are using to run upstream. Maybe not so useful in the bay???

That requires lifting the line off the roller - if you’re doing that, you’ll need to remove the loop over the top of the line on the roller device.
 
You don't need a bow pulpit, I like that looks good too and very useable , what backing plate did you use? Large washers or a plate? Once you start drilling into the deck ( scares me) there is no turning back . And then how do you run the chain and rode? Just let it hang or do you disconnect it and hook it up when you use it?
 
steplift20 said:
You don't need a bow pulpit, I like that looks good too and very useable , what backing plate did you use? Large washers or a plate? Once you start drilling into the deck ( scares me) there is no turning back . And then how do you run the chain and rode? Just let it hang or do you disconnect it and hook it up when you use it?
Click to expand...


Is this directed towards me?
 
A couple of things:

I used fender washers and it gets pulled on pretty hard - no issues so far.

The offer of my roller that wasn’t suitable for anchoring in the river current is still good if any of you guys want it for the shipping cost. I’m cleaning stuff out and try to send the good things to good homes when I can.
 
General update on my progress...

I love the tilting anchor roller I bought.
I got some SS hardware, drilled holes and mounted it and...

My anchor is big enough that it could hit the fiberglass.

A friend gave me several pieces of scrap epe wood (brazilian hard wood), so that I can make a bow pulpit to get the roller further away from the deck.

I'm thinking that I'll use a piece of epe inside the cabin too to serve as my backing plate, along with large fender washers.

Reading other people's posts, I guess I went overboard.

I have 300' of woven 1/2 nylon anchor line, plus 10' of 1/2" chain (I *think*),
and I got a 13 lb Rocna anchor, plus a fairly large Fortress anchor, so I can swap out anchors if and as needed, and/or have a spare.

I also have 200' of twisted 3 strand nylon rope... my thinking is if I need more than 300', I'll tie the existing line through the eye of the 200', and suddenly have 500'.

So... I'm not sure when I'll get to the epe fabrication part.
I'm torn between using "PL Construction adhesive" or epoxy to bond pieces
of wood together to make the pulpit wider and thicker.

I'll use 3M 4000 UV, or maybe fast cure 5200 when I mount it.
I took off the cleat, and moved the bow lights.

I'm not worried about the holes in the deck. 5200 in them, then lots of 5200 around them when I install the pulpit, and I think they'll become a non-issue.

I went with the 1/2 line because I read that thinner line can be tough on your hands.

I have an inexpensive plastic deck pipe. I don't know if it's best to mount it near to the bow, or nearer the windshield on the starboard side... the thought would be that I could open the walk-through windshield, and deploy or retrieve the anchor right from the cabin. I'd put a laundry basket below to catch the rope.

Not sure... this is all new to me, but I like the idea of anchoring and retrieving from the cockpit... it also seems like a real plus for when I'm fishin' alone.

More to come. O.P. -- please let us know how you make out.

-Philip
 
ashokrags said:
Hello All,



I am thinkin of getting 15ft of 5/16" chain for the anchor. And then finally the bow roller for the anchor. In addition to the generous offer from @scook there are a couple of options I am looking at on Amazon

There are still a couple of nagging questions I have about anchor rollers

  • Is the roller the one that bears the force? Previously i routed my anchor rope through chucks and then onto the bow cleat. So that is should it be load bearing?
  • Can i install it off center? Any reason not to do that.. Would I have to move the light? .. Or is that because the light would not be visible anymore because of the bow roller?
  • Still am confused about the deck pipe installation. Is it as simple as cutting a hole in the bow and mounting the deck-pipe i have listed up there or is there more i need to do? Also any thoughts on why I should not install the deck pipe in the cover to the cuddy?
This is how far i am now. Got the anchor and the rope and am going to pick up the chain today.. Will try to get the bow roller installed this month sometime :sun:


Much obliged for everyone's help and comments thus far.
Cheers
Ashok
Click to expand...

My Rocna anchor is similar to the anchor you are considering.
I think it is a solid choice, and while it may be overkill, I've anchored in some very strong rips (to fish) where the current was probably going 10 knots or so... no exageration.... so I'd rather have too much holding power than risk breaking loose.


I got 300' of 1/2" of the same rope you selected. I like it.. so far... but it is heavy when wet, and it *does* take up a lot of space.

Regarding bow rollers. I think the pivoting one is better. The pivot helps with deploying and retrieving...

Plus at least one of the non-pivoting rollers you listed is 304 stainless steel.
I've read that 312 stainless stands up to salt water better, and I *believe* that the pivoting ahcnor roller is 312 SS, but I'm not 100% certain.
 
Bimini top or other for Wellcraft V20

Hello folks, Does anyone have any info about where a Bimini or other style top for my V20 can be purchased, is there a better top than the Bimini? In your own humble opinions?

Thanks and stay safe
 
I got a bimini off of eBay, little over $100 two years ago. Destroyer recommended the vender. It has held up great. Two years in the Florida sun, no issues. Comes complete with frame,canvas, and cover. I ve never taken mine down
 
SkunkBoat said:
I used a pivoting anchor roller. Worked great. Kept anchor ready at all times. Could drop & retrieve standing in the cuddy
Highly recommend.
I did eventually install a deck pipe straight into the "anchor locker"
Click to expand...

@skunkboat , would you mind sharing where you put the the deck pipe?

I boat alone a lot, or with in experienced help, so I like the idea of being able to deploy and retrieve from the cockpit, or at least standing in the cuddy... it's easier... I'm still at (or closer to) the helm, and it's safer, especially if the seas aren't dead-calm.

That's lead me to think that I want a deck pipe on the fore deck on the port side of the opening for the cabin, near the windshield, with a pop-up cleat in front of it... that way I can open the windshield, and then release or retrieve the anchor easily.

I'd put a laundry basket under the deck pipe to gather and hold the anchor rope and chain. I've also purchased a pin and device that I'll call a chain lock (I don't know the correct name) that you can use to secure the chain as well.


Just looking to learn from the experience of others before I start making holes all over the fore deck!

I'm thinking that a deck pipe close to the anchor roller in the bow wouldn't be very good, because someone would have to go up onto the foredeck to deploy or retrieve the anchor.
Even when I'm not alone, at times I'm anchoring where it can be dangerous, like near rocks on the edges of channels by Falmouth or the Buzzards Bay in Mass.... these areas have very strong currents, so
I feel safer keeping everyone safely inside the cockpit. (in fact... No ONE gets to pee over the side of my boat when we're at sea. Pee into a "lil-john' bottle, pee on the splash deck, or even go to the stern and pee on the deck (I've got a raw water washdown hose). I don't want ANYONE leaning far enough over the side for them to clear the gunnel.... the currents are too strong, and an unforeseen wake from a big commercial boat such as a ferry, could rock the boat and put someone in the drink! It's just not worth the risk, and a far too dangerous to try to rescue someone out of those conditions (although, obviously I *would*, and also call for help if I have *any* difficulty. -- sorry for the off-topic rant! Just sharing. Safety is #1 priority. It's easy to wash-away piss, but it sucks if a person gets washed away!)


Thanks!
 
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ashokrags said:
I looked at that one too :) .. Let me know how it works out..
Click to expand...

@ahokrags, I really like the anchor roller. I think it was well worth the money.

I've set up the roller and bow pulpit made out of Ipe wood, replaced the single bow light with a separate port and starboard ones, and removed the cleat for the anchor. I haven't put a new cleat on yet, or actually used the anchor yet, but I think it'll be a big improvement!

More to come once I'm done!
 
scook said:
In the river here, the Salmon and Steelhead tend to travel in very narrow seams, almost single file. We use the chucks or sometimes a short line off the chuck or bow rail stanchion to pull the anchor line off center to angle the boat and move it a little sideways, trying to position over the lane the fish are using to run upstream. Maybe not so useful in the bay???

That requires lifting the line off the roller - if you’re doing that, you’ll need to remove the loop over the top of the line on the roller device.
Click to expand...


Great to know! I'm learning a ton! Thank you.
 
I put it next to the pivoting roller and cleat. It is big enough to pass chain.
I cut a hole into the bow anchor locker and siliconed in a piece of 4" landscape drain pipe.

The rode comes out on its own from the weight of the anchor/chain falling.
I hauled the rode onto the deck. If I was moving around I kept it on deck.
Deploying and hauling could be done standing in the open sliding hatch. Sometimes I even hauled it from way back on the main deck with the window open and laid the rode on the main deck.

When done for the day I hauled it below by hand thru the pipe down in the cabin.

That kept the cabin clear of a basket of line. 3/8" 3 strand. 1/4" chain

Before I had the deck pipe I ran it under the windshield, under the sliding hatch and into the cabin. I could actually have line there and still lock the hatch.
 

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Any updates on your anchor project?

Just wondering...

I'm looking to learn from your experience, and also share mine!

:-)

-Philip
 
Skunkboat, or others using a pivoting roller, how do you secure the anchor so that the pivoting part of the roller assembly doesn***8217;t bounce around? I have the pivoting roller through bolted and back plated directly to the deck with the original bow cleat still in place. No matter how I do it, I can***8217;t get enough down pull on the stem of the anchor to prevent the roller from drooping and bouncing around. I***8217; ve considered drilling through both portions of the roller and pinning it but would prefer not to go that route. Any tips?
 
djdixon1995 said:
Skunkboat, or others using a pivoting roller, how do you secure the anchor so that the pivoting part of the roller assembly doesn***8217;t bounce around? I have the pivoting roller through bolted and back plated directly to the deck with the original bow cleat still in place. No matter how I do it, I can***8217;t get enough down pull on the stem of the anchor to prevent the roller from drooping and bouncing around. I***8217; ve considered drilling through both portions of the roller and pinning it but would prefer not to go that route. Any tips?
Click to expand...

I used an anchor chain tensioner between roller and cleat.
But I didn't have much problem when it was not being used. Just a little bounce with the chain wrapped on the cleat
 
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