Transom repair - Here we go..... (long)

mauryc

Junior Member
Folks,

Some of you may remember I posted a while back about my need for a transom and my intent to use the Arjay 6011 or Nidacore pourable compounds. Well, the time has arrived. I began the operation this weekend. As background, I purchased what I consider a very pristine 88' dual console from the original owner knowing it had a little flex in the transom. I had the transom replaced in my previous V-20 (75' cuddy with twin 115's). After visiting the shop over and over and seeing the finished product, I convinced myself I could do no worse. The last thing I wanted to do with my current boat was cut the inner liner or worse, the top cap so I said lets try the ceramic.

With the motor off, I drilled out the rivits on the aluminum transom cap, removed the swim platform and tow eyelets and had a look. The splash well and top cap wrapped around the transom, so I used my 41/2" grinder with a cutoff blade to remove these pieces so I could get to the wood. The wood on the upper part of the sides was mush. The hardest wood was actually where the motor mounted and I assume because it was compressed at that location helped it last longer. For those of you who laughed or were scared of the chainsaw method, let me put you at ease. VERY easy. You'd have to try really hard to cut through the inner liner much less the hull. You can very easily tell when the blade hits the glass. I purchased a $10 set of 2' wood bits from Harbor freight to aid in wood removal. Again, easy to tell when you hit glass. I've spent about 5 hours so far removing wood and I'd say I have 90% out. My 18" chainsaw is to short to reach the limits of the sides so I'll be borrowing a 22' this week to finish the removal this weekend. I plan on sanding the inside till its clean, applying a coat of polyester resin and pouring the Arjay 6011 that I ordered this morning while the resin is still green. It's messy, but my top cap and liner are still in one piece. Will it be as strong as a traditional job? Maybe, maybe not. The few times I'll take it offshore I think I'll be OK. It will be stronger than what I took out, that's for sure. (PICS TO COME)

Maury
 
Started the same thing the same way this week on my gigging boat but gonna pour the assend with glass and cloth like the V.
It's an old "74 Owlcraft.
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This made it much easier doing the V and this boat.
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A 3"x24"x1/4" piece of flatbar cut on a 45* to finish the scrapeing.
The weight alone does most of the work.
 
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That 75' is an "easy access transom". That thing I got makes it hard to get it all out - the sides of the transom are so darn high. How's yours held up since the pour?

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Less than a year since it was done, so no real comparing yet.
Yes the dual should be a lot harder than the cuddy.
 
"murauy". Lumber, what the heck is that????? I know Maury is unusual, but??? :)

Yep, the dually is undergoing surgery. Ordered the Arjay 6011 yesterday so it should be here by the weekend. Because of my schedule, I plan to pour the weekend of the 8th. I'll have the aluminum transom cap made the following week (about $100), then I should be good to go. I've got my fingers crossed, but so far so good.

Maury
 
OK, for all you pic hoes...........

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I had already done alot before I remembered to take pics. Here, the 175 is off and I removed tow eyelets, swim platform, aluminum cap and the bottom drain plug.

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a 2' wood bit from Harbor Freight

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My Poulan chainsaw did the trick. Don't be afraid of this step.

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more chainsaw

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You need something small to suck out the debris. The iron pipe worked well and was heavy enough to aid in wood removal.

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The end result

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Picked up two new drain tubes at the local West Marine. Definately the cheapeast thing I've ever purchased there.

I think if I can sand it clean I can get a pretty good bond.

More to come.................next weekend.
 
never seen anyone do a transom that way. looks good, and good luck:clap:

works real well we did it that same way on my first v-20 plus we put a alum plate with a cap on it also. the alum cap and plate was overkill though. its just really time consuming. but better than putting the cap.
 
Maury Iam impressed !!!
When I changed my drain thing I didnt use a tube I just mounted my plug to the exterior with some 5200 and painted over it .... should I have used this tube??
 
If you have a rubber plug I would have!! But I like the screw in type much better, that you just 5200 the hole sides so is water proof and screw the flange on, takes a few more min to add & remove but I like better
 
Lumber,

My lower drain is the brass screw in type (pipe threads). There isn't a brass thru-hull tube there. The tubes I bought were for my splash well drains up top. I'm sure its the same set up as yours.

Maury
 
Used my wifes electric chainsaw and emptied the oil out of it, figured I didn't need any in the transom.
Keep the pics comming.
 
OK, transom is poured. Pics to follow. Total time to prepare transom - approx 5-6 hours. The worse the wood is the easier it comes out. Coated the inside with two coat of poly resin and poured within a half hour. A reminder here- make sure ALL holes are covered as this stuff is the consistency of thick latex paing and it will find the holes. Gells within a half an hour then gets HOT - so hot you can't touch the back of the boat. I'll say it again when I post pics, but I'm sure the fiberglass purist will negate the benefits of this product. You couldn't get it out of my transom without dynamite. I'm sold. I may not be able to bring it to get the aluminum transom cap till early next week - we'll see how my week goes.

Maury
 
You may have answered this question already, but I couldn't find it. Why did you go with the ARJAY over the NIDACORE? I remeber you said before you weren't impressed with SEACAST(can't blame ya), but what was the decider for the ARJAY? And how much did the ARJAY cost?
 
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I think the Arjay 6011 and Nidacore pourable transom compound are exactly the same thing. Both are ceramic spheres in poly resin. The cured samples look exactly the same. The Arjay was from Fiberglass Services in Saraota for $106/ 5gal pail. Nidacore from their website is about $115. Shipping is what kills you. I got three 5 gal pails plus a quart of MEK-P shipped to Baton Rouge and the shipping ran about $130. Seacast was expensive and looks lumpy when poured. The Arjay ran like butter. We hammered the hull for air pockets but there was really no need. I guarantee every void in my transom was filled up by this stuff.
 
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