Yet another motor question('02 Suzuki 150)

R

reyb

Junior Member
Somewhat local engine for sale for $3500 with supposedly only 30hrs....

"it is a 20 inch shaft efi motor dt150 it was a demo motor and has less than 30 hours on it do not have any pictures would not be able to get a good picture its still on a crate but its in excellent shape has an oil gauge,ss prop in the box and new mounting kit and a new water pump in the box if you are interested you should come and look at it doubt there is any corrosion it was only in the water for 2 weeks and cleaned well"

Googling shows that this motor weighs in at around 471lbs. I was/am targeting the DF140 but kids college tuition keeps calling dibs on that money. :) So, when I see some motors I think "hmmm, may be that'll do". I probably should've bought that '98 Suzuki DT140 I mentioned a while back but I waited too long. I probably could've gotten it for $1100...oh well. Anyways, any comments on this '02 Suzuki 150? Too heavy? Too expensive? I prefer a 25 inch but "hmmm, may be that'll do" comes in to play.

Thanks,

Rey
'89 V20 center console
 
A 150 is considered by many to be the ideal sized engine for a V20. That size was the O.E.M. engine from Wellcraft, so I doubt that the one you're looking at will be out of that power or weight range. :head:
 
The 150 SUZUKI is the most potent 150 ever built, hands down. It's also decent on fuel. That same basic engine was offerred in a 225HP version with dual plugs, different heads, and some other changes. It will be TORQUEY for a 150 too as it is a 2.7L displacement engine. They are a bit heavier than other 150HP class engines though since it is built off of the 225HP platform. Just check it REALLY close for corrsion as engines that sit are the WORST! Just because it was washed up good and sprayed down on the outside doesn't mean that the zincs inside the engine haven't been eaten away from sitting all this time. Corrosion is the #1 problem with a SUZUKI outboard IMHO, and I believe most will agree. Check the prop area very closely as the lowers will split from corrosion in the lower where teh prop slides in. Other than the corrosion and possibly gummed up injectors from sitting if it wasn't properly flushed out before storage, it should be a good engine. The 225HP version of that engine did have some problems with the engines losing a cylinder or piston in the first 100 hours, but I don't think the 150 used the boron sleeves like the 225's which is what normally failed.
 
Destroyer said:
A 150 is considered by many to be the ideal sized engine for a V20. That size was the O.E.M. engine from Wellcraft, so I doubt that the one you're looking at will be out of that power or weight range. :head:
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I had a '89 Mercury BlackMax on it before and that engine is about 100lbs lighter than this Suzuki 150. Also, I converted the live well in the floor such that it's a bait tank that holds approx. 40 gals(~320lbs). With the BlackMax, two guys standing in the back and the bait tank full, it didn't take much for water to come over the transom. I've moved both batteries inside the center console and I'm tempted to add some weight in the forward storage area. I'm thinking the walk-through V20s don't have this weight distribution problem because of the added weight already on the front of the boat.
 
reyb said:
Ferm: Dang you are a wealth of knowledge! :) Any opinion on the price?
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If it's clean I would say the price is right. Just remember that SUZUKI parts are not easy to come by, so maintence and any repairs tha tcome up can be tricky without a good local dealer. And yes it is a heavy 150 since it's built on a larger displacement block. The good thing is though that the bottem ends in them are good for a LONG LONG time if you run a good oil in them, and the oil injection in a SUZUKI is almost bulletproof as it is simple and rugged by design. And if you do lose a cylinder they are a modular design so that you can replace the cylinders in banks without pulling the powerhead.
 
The motor has supposedly been sitting in a create since 2004 with the fluids removed. What problems can happen due to this condition? Can the injectors be clogged up? Is it best to remove them and have them cleaned?...etc etc I've asked the guy if he can start the engine but since it's in the crate with no fluids he "kind of" indicated that he wouldn't. Given this, what kind of price is a good price to take a chance on this engine?

Thanks,

Rey
 
Stinky_Hooker said:
Ferm, I noticed the dual plugs on this 150 yesterday on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZU...7744974QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear


That thing looks CHERRY. I was lusting over it and betting it would make my 18 SCREAM if I had the $$.
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That is what is called the super 6 by SUZUKI. The 150 dual plug was a choked down 225 basically and was frownedd upon by many of the BASS fishing organizations that had a 150HP rule. That thing was nowhere near a 150 at the prop, but much closer to 200. Not to mention the torque it had for a 150. I would think it would be capable of tearing your 18 footer up if your transom isn't as good or better than new. it is a heavy 150, but makes up for it in torque and the ability to turn a big prop.

As for the price of the OP's, I would say $3500 is more than fair if it checks out. You need to have him at least open up the crate and let you inspect it for any signs of corrosion.
 
"As for the price of the OP's, I would say $3500 is more than fair if it checks out. You need to have him at least open up the crate and let you inspect it for any signs of corrosion. "

Things I usually do when I check out a motor of any kind are:

1. Check compression. What type of compression should this motor have?
2. Corrosion as you mentioned
3. Signs of leaks and wear/tear

Do you recommend just filling up the fluids and starting it right up? If an injector is clogged what signs would there be? Also, if clogged would you remove all the injectors and have them cleaned?

Thanks,

Rey
 
For an engine that's been in storage that long, I would fill it with any oil it needs. For a 2 stroke like the 150, I would run it on 50:1 for at least an hour until you get the oil injection purged completely and verify it is working. Also before you start it or turn it over, i would put a tablespoon of MARVEL mystery oil in each cylinder and rotate it around by hand a few turns and let it sit for a few hours before you hook power up to it and turn it over with the starter. This will lubricate the cylinders and make sure teh rings aren't dry when you spin it around. Also it wouldn't hurt to spray it with WD-40 into the intake when you turn it over to put some lube down in teh rod and main bearings. I'm not sure what teh compression should be on that engine, but I would guess it should be around 100-125 if I had to guess. Just make sure they are all even with each other. And as far as the injectors go, I personally would have them ultrasonic cleaned before running it under load. I would do this for insurance more than anything as plugged injectors have taken alot of 2 stroke outboards to an early death.
 
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