randlemanboater
God
Did that fix your uneven power problem?
Yamaha OX66 225s- Tell me everything
- Thread starter SkunkBoat
- Start date
SkunkBoat
God
no, actually the charging problem was on the port motor that gets above 5000.
We did loosen up the controls...snapped off 2 of the 4 allen screws holding the binnacle cover. Lubed the linkage at the motors. Smoother and easier to push and shift.
Suppose we could run with cover off and try to work throttle from there, if we get to 5k then linkage needs adjusting?
Bought a Seloc manual on eBay $25...great if work on every motor from 2 hp to 250 and you already know what you are doing. Should have bought a Yamaha manual for SX225/LX225...$90 from Yamaha.
I think the prop is definitely a contributing factor, I can see a difference..
Funny thing, if I read fuel meters separately, the stbd motor actually burns a hair less fuel when they are both running at 4200
spareparts
God
if you can "see" a difference in props, then there is definitely an issue. I had props that look perfect were way off. What props are on the boat?
SkunkBoat
God
haven't had the chance to get a good hands-on look at the props. Guess thats my next project...after fishing tomorrow morning...
Assuming they are marked the same size....PO said he had the stbd one repaired.
Edges look different, not cupped like the port one.
I'll get the size off both and maybe get another to match the port side...throw money at it...see what sticks....
By the way, we found some poor connections and green copper on some cables from the house battery and now that side is also measuring 14V when we are running. So we are making progress. Installed 4 more new rod holders also...
THEFERMANATOR
God
When having a prop rebuilt, I always reccomend doing them in pairs. Many shops use universal dies to shape the blades which can be good or bad. Many times a certain size of prop can comein 20 different blade types, or more. You really need to have a prop rebuilt on a die made for just that specific prop, but that can mean a prop shop must buy 20 different dies in every pitch size. This can add up to thousands of dies, so they use universal dies to use to rebuild, shape, and contour the blade. It only takes the slightest of differences in prop design to completely change how a prop works or even how the boat rides. Having both props done at the same time means they can at least make them both similiar. You may even benefit from a prop swap. For a big boat like that with big v-6 2 strokes, it would do well with a set of mirage plus large diameter props. It would help out with prop hookup down low, and they lift the stern pretty well to help plant the bow down which helps in thechop to keep the sharp part of the v bow doing it's job instead of running bow high and slamming the flatter hull bottom.
spareparts
God
What Ferm said
spareparts
God
look near the back of the prop hub, right where it flares out, if they are Yamaha Props(looks like it), it will have something like 17M embossed in the prop. Do what Ferm said, pull them both and carry them to a reputable prop shop and have them checked
THEFERMANATOR
God
I can tell from the pics that the starboard prop has a good bit more cup to it. The cupping is one of the 1st parts to wear off, and can make or break how some props perform. Those aren't quite a semi-cleaver blade as they're rounded instead of squared, but I would say they look like Yamaha props as they use blades with a semi cleaver design alot as they allow the boat to plane easier and give better low end performance. They also lift the stern really well which is the main reason they perform so well down low. That blade design NEEDS a good cup to the blade tip or else they blow out.
Kracker Jack
God
Yea but they only have to run 2 miles off the beach to be in the pelagics!! Lol!!!
SkunkBoat
God
so I've been calculating it out...ignoring maintenance of 17 yr old motors...
Low price for gas at dock - $3 gl
Low price for 2 stroke oil - $.40 per gl of gas ($20gl oil/50gl gas)...Pennzoil $20gl...Yamalube is $50gl
---- low price of fuel $3.40 gl
Canyon trip burned 220 gl for 3 hrs out/3 back /4 hrs running around and trolling 220/ 10 = 22 gph
Expect to run 100 hrs /season = 2200 x $3.40=$7480
Lets say 4 strokes knock it down to 15gph x 100= 1500gl...x $3.40=$5100
Lets round it to $2400/year fuel savings
Pair of zuki 200s- $34,000/10 years...$3400/year- $2400/year fuel savings= $1000/year for new 4 strokes
If gas higher=more savings
if run more due to more canyon trips= more savings
If keep boat more than 10 years= more savings
spending money SAVES money! I wonder if my wife will buy that
Last edited:
SkunkBoat
God
THEFERMANATOR
God
Don't forget the added maintence costs of oil changes, filters, zincs, ring free, and so on when figuring your actual numbers. The cost of 2 stroke oil is pretty much offset by the cost of oil changes. I see where you're going with this presenting it to your wife, but be honest with yourself. And if your props are as bad off as you're saying they are, you can probably get a new set of props and reduce your current fuel consumption. The only real advantage I see is newer power and the hope of increased reliability, and if you do sell it, there will be a large increase in resale value. So they each have there pros and cons. Personnally I would get what you have fixxed, setup, working 100%, and run it like it is for a year or at least 3 months to see if it's the boat for you and if you will still be using it as much as you hope to after the new wears off before I would repower. I know that the idea of repowering is very tempting right now as many dealers want to move inventory in the off season and are willing to deal. But I would spend some time with it before I went sinki,g more money into it than you bought it for for a pair of new engines.
SkunkBoat
God
8(?) qts x 2 motors = 4 gallons of 10W40=$20x4=
$80 per year + (2 Suzuki oil filters x $19=$38)=
$118.
$20/gl 2 stroke oil x 2200 gl gas per year/50 (50:1 ratio)= 44 gl of oil x $20=
$880...for 2 stroke oil per season...that can't be right???
Ring Free need for 2 stroke - forgot about that...
WOW
$50/qt for every 320 Gallons of gas...2200 gl(expected gas per year)/320 about 7 quarts x $50= $350/year$118 vs $1230
bradford
God
I like the new engine smell myself, but I'm with Ferm, get your props right and run the heck out of those ox66s for a couple of years. You can always repower. To me it doesnt make sense to remove clean good running engines.
But then what the heck, its your boat, if new makes you happy, its only dirty green paper and you fish enough to get return on the investment. Even if just on the personal satysfaction side of things.
But then what the heck, its your boat, if new makes you happy, its only dirty green paper and you fish enough to get return on the investment. Even if just on the personal satysfaction side of things.
Striper80
Senior Member
I know I want one hanging off the back of my boat. If only I could afford it.
SkunkBoat
God
its all about time. 17 year old motors there is a good chance of needing to do major repair or replace at least one in next few years. If I'm keeping long term, I might as well have new motors and spread the cost out over time than run old motors for years and be forced to buy later anyways...
That said, unless some lottery numbers come in, I'm running it next year with these and making a decision about the boat. That will inform my decision about the motors.