water in the oil

garagenc

garagenc

God
I have a 91 V-20 with a Volvo Penta Engine (501L chevy) and 290 DP outdrive.
I started getting water in the last 2 cyl on each side. I replaced both heads, both risers which helped but I had water in the oil, oil was extreme white on heads (rocker arm area) inside of both vlv covers was white. I found that my stbd side riser was "cannot touch" hot but port side cool. I replaced stbd exh manifold. I cleaned/wiped the white foam from the heads and vlv covers and replaced oil and filter. Took it back out and stbd side riser cool as one on port. I came in and pulled dipstick and had water in oil again.

I'm replacing port side exh manifold this week, but my question is do you guys think the port side exh manifold leaking back into the eng (the eng runs fine,) no plugs miss firing.

Could this last oil change with water in it be left over from oil/foam residue from last time? I also get white smoke out of my rubber hoses on vlv covers, is this the burn-off of condensation from the water in the oil? I drained the oil with a pump, can't get to the oil pan plug. If so how many oil changes will it take to get the oil back to normal color. Is there any way to check for a internal crack in the water passages that could be dumping water into the oil pan. I bought the boat from original owner and he took very good care of it with the dealer. I use it in brackish water and when I go to the ocean I bring it back home and flush.

Does anyone have any suggestions or reccomendations??
 
do a compression test to see if you have a hole rusted thru a cylinder some where or you may have a water jacket rusted thru in the block to the oil passages. sounds bad. oil and water make instant sand paper on cam and crank bearings. one way to flush all water out is remove all the plugs so it can't crank and drain the oil fill the block with diesel fuel in place of oil then turn it over with the starter a little till the fuel has flushed all the oil passages out in the block then drain and refill with good little thicker oil due to left over diesel will thin the oil.
 
Same boat different motor, When I bought mine I had a head rusted threw and was getting water on the #1 cylinder

Had to replace head, and flush the motor much like skools said!

But I could get to the drain plug on the oil pan, I hate them pumps, they can never get everything!

Good Luck!! as this was the beginning of the end for my motor! Replaced Head, manifold, risers, belows, ect ect ect..

This is why I am now converted to a bracket and outboard!
 
could very well be the manifold, go ahead and replace it( allways replace risers and manifolds together on both sides on a raw water cooled enginewhen you have one fail, the others are not far behind), while you have the hoses off, block them off or hook them back to the thermostat housing to block of any way the water can exit the block, tehn hook a garden hose to the water inlet, you can get more pressure with a garden hose than you will ever get by running the engine, check the oil level, if you have a leak it will rise, pull the oil fill crack and listen, you will here a hissing noise, pull the plugs out and spin the engine over, look for water coming out of the sparkplug holes, if not your OK, put the engine bakc together.. Carry the boat out and run it on teh water, you will get the oil temp above 215 degress to steam the moisture out of the engine. Watch the oil pressure, if it get real high, you still may have a problem with water getting in the oil, by the way, does the engnine have an oil cooler? It may be getting water in thru there.
 
Before you replace the manifold, pressure test it by making a plate to cover the water outlet, plugging the rear water inlet hole, and inserting an air fitting in the front. I think the pressure test is supposed to be performed at 40 psi, that seems a little high and my memory is sometimes wrong. You should know if you have a problem by 20 psi.
 
You guys seem to know what you are talking about. Its an interesting topic to me. I cant figure why I/O's blow motors so easy or crack the blocks. To me, these are nothing more then car engines in a boat. Instead of antifreeze they use fresh water to cool the engine.
Does the salt water really eat the insides of a motor that bad ?? :-/
 
Salt water will really take it's toll on a marine engine. Due to low use, condensation in the oil will also screw up a boat engine. Flushing with fresh water and getting the engine up to temp will definately help.
 
salt will attack anything!!! Not just I/O's. I worked on fresh water engines for 14 years, thought I knew saltwater motors from the trailered ones I serviced. I moved to salt 8 years ago and started my reeducation. Outboards screw up also, most reecently I've had nore problems with Yamaha's with corrosion( goes against public opinion). The biggest difference is that most poeple will do a "four bolt tune up"( replace an outboard) while the I/O people stick with what they have and try to keep it going. just check and see how few people have the original outboards on their older boats vs how many people still have their original I/O. In salt water, a trailerd boat that gets flushed needs the manifolds and risers replaced every 5 year depending on where the boat is used( ones that stay in the water and less likely to get flushed need them every 3 years). Also because the engine is cooled by raw water, the possibility of freezing in cold weather is possible, it will crack the block if it is not properlly winterized. You will rarely see an I/O engine blown up, usually it will have corrosion related issues kill it before they blow, I've seen several that have well over 2000 hours, but they have been maintained properlly, and they don't sit long. BTW, I highly recomend closed cooling for any inboard or I/O engine
 
Everyone has there preference!!

I/O will last, but at a huge maintain cost!! and smaller cost to repower

O/B will last a long time with little maintain, and large repower cost!

In the end its even in my book!

But with one difference, I am in the water longer with no issues like a O/B and when it comes to repower time there are only 6 bolts to new motor!!

And thats why I choose to go O/B
 
IT'S VERY SIMPLE, EVERY YEAR BEFORE SUMMER YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE RAISERS, CLEAN THEM WITH MURIATIC ACID AND A WIRE BRUSH, (AFTER THAT MAKE SURE YOU SUMERGE THEM IN WATER WITH BAKING SODA AT LEAST FOR A DAY TO NEUTRALIZE THE ACID)
AND ALSO STARTING THE ENGINE OFTEN ALSO HELPS TO KEEP THE MANIFOLDS FULL OF WATER, THUS RETARDING THE OXIDATION, ONCE THE'RE DRY PROBLEMS WILL STAR.
MANIFOLDS SHOULD ALSO BE CLEANED EVERY TWO YEARS OR SO.

LESTERUS
 
Everyone has good suggestions:

I checked the compression when all this started and it was good. I probably should do a pressure test on the last unchanged manifold.

I flushed the motor with diesel fuel Saturday and reflushed with 2 qts of oil and then sucked out (pump) the diesel and 2 qts of oil.

I just can't figure out how to check if I have internal leak in the water passages to the oil pan without pulling the mtr and oil pan and look.


Also what the h*ll does I loveya bb- on the left hand side of my posts??
 
I guess you didn't catch it but heres how to pressure test the bloack and check it for leaks...........while you have the hoses off, block them off or hook them back to the thermostat housing to block of any way the water can exit the block, then hook a garden hose to the water inlet at teh thermostat housing, you can get more pressure with a garden hose than you will ever get by running the engine, check the oil level, if you have a leak it will rise, pull the oil fill cap and listen, you may here a hissing noise, pull the plugs out and spin the engine over, look for water coming out of the sparkplug holes, if not your OK, put the engine back together
 
i had an I/O rust thru the intake once and put water in the ooil on the bottom of the intake. i replaced with aftermarket aluminum and never another problem.
 
thanks spare and skool I quess I need to work a little more on checking out the block and exh manifold. I also had thought abt the intake manifold leaking.
lee
 
good one, i forgot about the intake, got my but kicked years ago because of an intake, i swaped out a long block on a freeze busted engine, put it back together with new manifolds and risers, got it all running and it still made milkshake oil, i was in such a hurry i missed the slight crack on the water jacket under the intake, it was hidden by the oil splash shield. It should show up if you presure test the block. I wouldn't use an aftermarket aluminum intake if your going anywhere near salt. The marine aluminum intakes have a bronze liner in the water jacket
 
Hey Spares, I run the boat again today and again water in the oil. I kept watch on the oil level and it increased so I pullled the boat up and plugged off everything except the inlet hose from the raw water pump. I plugged my water hose from the house on it and the oil level increased in the pan. I next hope is it's only a intake gasket or intake problem. I guess I'll have to pressure test that as soon as I come back from Seattle WA next week.

Any suggestions from that point.
 
Well guys I found out what my problem is. I took the intake off and with some pvc coupling and a brass fitting I hooked the water hose up to the block and I found the BLOCK was cracked.

Thanks to spareparts & skool.

I had pin holes all down the left side of the motor (bottom of the water jackets from front to back). I picked at them but it doesn't appear to be from rust. It almost seems to be a cast line in the block. I've never seen this before on a block.

Does anyone know if this is a condition that happens to these 305 blocks?
 
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