walmart tcw3 supertech

That be the stuff I use, but unlike you I have NO faith in the VRO on a JOHNNY-RUDE. I've seen too many fall with them hooked up. But I had to tear down my 140 once to replace a piston(broken cir-clip), the inside of the engine had a very nice oil film left on all of the internals. The one time I used GENUINE JOHNSON 2 stroke oil I lost 2 bearings in my 35HP JOHNSON. When I pulled it down there was no residual oil left, yet I know it had 50:1 run through it. I know that alot of shops call the PENNZOIL "piston scuff oil", but I haven't had any issues with it. I know over on SCREAMANDFLY they reccomend the PENNZOIL if you don't want to fork out the dough for ALLISON or KLOTZ.
 
no faith here on VRO but it's not the VRO that will kill your motor it's the voltage regulator / rectifier that will stop the tach from working which also runs your VRO so you are good as long as you have a tach but if the tach ever dies kill the motor asap you should be ok.
 
Skools Out said:
no faith here on VRO but it's not the VRO that will kill your motor it's the voltage regulator / rectifier that will stop the tach from working which also runs your VRO so you are good as long as you have a tach but if the tach ever dies kill the motor asap you should be ok.
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my tach has been down for the last season and a half....motor runs perfect.....what-up??
 
um you better chek that out asap as long as it's just the tach it's self ifyou replace the tach and it is working then you are ok but if you replace the tach and still dead you better just go to premix. you can run the tach off your yellow / gray wire on the rectifier but you can not run the oil injection that way.
 
easy to test just take a 12v test light and with out starting motor turn it over with the light hooked to the gray wire to the VRO pump or the gray to the tach it your test light pulse's then you are good to go.
 
OK I owned an Auto parts store for 15 years sold it to Carquest in almost all cases privet label parts and oil are the same as the name brand sometimes the name brand has different grades of the same part then it hard to know which grade you are getting in the privet label as for warranty a product that meets the OEM specs can be used but is it worth the hassle if something goes wrong if the dealer tells you they won't warranty something because you used brand x check with brand x they may go to bat for you and get the dealer to back down hope this help confuse the issue for everone
 
boy thanks guys now im really confused
i think i will just use it on my smaller moter
1984 50 hp mrecury
and use the pennzoil blend for my 150
 
Not to Ruffle any feathers, but VRO operate off of crank case pressure period.

The warning circuit uses tach inputs to verify sufficient oil is being pumped as required per engine RPM's. So if your tach circuit is shot it doesn't mean the VRO isn't functioning, it just means you won't know when it does until it's to late.


From http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

The VRO's electronic circuitry compares the RPM of the engine to the number of pressure pulses from the oil pump piston. As the oil flows into the fuel area, the pressure moves a small piston that actuates a steel pin in the alarm module. The pin's movement is detected electronically and "counted." If the engine revolutions exceed the preprogrammed oil pulse ratios, the warning horn is activated sounding a rapid on and off sequence.

I'm with Phester. VRO's rock! but they do need to be maintained like anything on a boat. Unfortunately they are expensive and they aren't very well understood which only adds to the topic raising its head from time to time.


Kamikaze
 
i will tell you why oil 8dollars a gallon
and thats it
plugs, can change them in 3 minutes and no gapping
winterize done in 30 minuters done
 
My limited experience with 2-stroke oils is in 2-stroke dirt bike engines, but it has been an interesting experience.  I generally run whatever "quality" oil is priced right or I can get my hands on.  This ranges from $6 a quart Yamalube 2-R to $16.95 a quart Bel-Ray HC-1.  With an average lifespan for a piston of around 20 hours, it's pretty easy to see any accelerated or reduced wear.  

My conclusion so far is that I have seen no difference in wear no matter what oil I run except when I blow a crankshaft seal and start sucking crankcase oil.  

What I have seen are differences in cleanliness of the engine.  A major part of 2-stroke motorcycle maintenance is cleaning the exhaust valves.  My particular bike is notorious for fouling exhaust valves.  After running some of the brands of synthetic oils, my exhaust valves come out cleaner than they go in.  Of course, outboards don't have any such thing but keeping the ring grooves clean is important to maintaining proper ring seal.  My observations so far have been that the synthetic blends do carbon up some in the ring grooves, on the piston crown, on the exhaust valves, and on the combustion chamber.  Redline synthetic does leave deposits on the piston crown, none in the combustion chamber, minimal in the ring grooves, and some on the exhaust valves.  Bel-Ray HC-1 leaves some in the combustion chamber, minimal on the crown, none on the exhaust valves, and minimal in the ring grooves.  Amsoil Dominator performs very similarly to Redline.  Amsoil Interceptor is the interesting one.  Everything in the cylinder is absolutely spotless after the pistons entire lifetime of 20 hours.  I think the last engine we pulled apart had one fleck of carbon under the spark plug.  It's also one of the cheaper oils at $10.95 a quart.

I've also noticed that if you overheat the crown, you'll get carbon build-up on that hot spot regardless of what oil you burn.

Basically, if you have a boroscope available, you should use it to determine what oil keeps your engine the cleanest and run that oil.  Don't worry about brand, they all seem to do fine at wear protection.
 
kamikaze said:
I'm with Phester.  VRO's rock! but they do need to be maintained like anything on  a boat.  Unfortunately they are expensive and they aren't very well understood which only adds to the topic raising its head from time to time.
Kamikaze
Click to expand...

they are close to 300 retail. they also make rebuild kits for the vro pumps for all three parts of it. also the vro2 pumps which all of the other v-6, v-4 pumps use superceed to that pump. and if anyone was curious if your fuel side goes out and you dont want to rebuild it. you can order a vro with out an oil side.
 
Well, not really like a Detroit.  They usually work by covering a portion of the ports to vary the timing/area or by opening and closing sub-ports to change the resonance of the pipe to give a broader power band.  They open based on RPM.  That is why they foul up, they aren't always moving (which scrapes the carbon off) if the motor spends a large portion of its time above or below the rpm at which they open.  That valve protruding into the exhaust flow tends to collect a lot of carbon.

Oh yeah, I'm not suggesting you run motorcycle oil instead of an outboard oil, I was just explaining some of the differences you may see between brands.
 
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