Trasom repair from the outside...

That is the classic way to replace the transom. The few people that I know about that have done that or acquired a boat that had that done complained about the joints cracking because of the stress. This is not to say that this method is good or bad. Most likely it is related to the quality of work and not the method. As for me I don't like the idea of cutting factory molds unless absolutely necessary. :-/
 
tsubaki, I hear what yer sayin' but as opposed to removin' the cap... I'd go this route inna skinny minute!!... ;) ...I like that, Slot ... we oughtta get together and ''do our transoms'' some time ;) ... ;D ;D ;D ...
 
Er, OK, I'll try anything once I guess...can we invite a few of the WET's? ;D I'd do some of their transoms ;D
 
Airslot said:
Er, OK, I'll try anything once I guess...can we invite a few of the WET's? ;D I'd do some of their transoms ;D
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Well I was talkin' about the BOATS ::) ... but heck yeah ... a few of the "Girls of WET" around for transom-jobs sounds cool to me ;) 8) ...



Oh, and Slot...about that; "I'll try anything once" thing...careful on that ol' friend...there are some things ya just can't put back :-X ... ;D ;D ;D ...
 
Thats great info there you posted AIR. Only thing that is confusing is that I think he never replaced his outer skin. I thought I have seen guys screw the outter skin back on after they have wetted it back on. ??? ???
I guess this is just another way of doing it.
 
Now one thing I am sure of (and this is probably why the cracks came into play) that pouring or applying resin vertically should prove to be a SOB.
 
I know ya'll are going to research this to no end before starting on your boat but another fly in the ointment is the fact that this guys boat has a flat transom whereas most V's (at least mine and Reels) don't.
 
Tsubaki, you are correct, all V's are slightly curved, except I/o's with a full tramsom I think. So the question is: Is there more strenght with a flat transom or a slightly curved transom. Hmm ???
 
My boat is a full transom I/O and the transom is curved, so this out side repair would or might not work for are boats?

But what says that you can't convert it to a flat transom? I mean on a structural stand point I think it would be as strong.
But if you are going to restore to its original appearance then you would have to do it differently.
 
You can do a curved transom from outside. Just have to pull each sheet tight to the inside skin. As far as wetting out glass on a vertical surface, whats the difference inside or out?

I believe that 2ndchance wound up with a great transom / bracket job done from the outside.
 
THe reason I liked the way we did my transom in taking the boat apart was for several reasons.

1 It is a CC and we had the inner section out in one weekend.

2 If the tramson is bad there's a good chance you have stringer issues which with the boat apart you now have access to all of them.

3 You do not have to worry about finishing off the surface as you cannot see the repair (sanding smooth, painting, etc...)

4 If you flooring is soft you can also replace from the bottom and again you do not have to finish off as you would from cutting from above.

This is what I found out when doing a CC it might not be as easy with a cabin but I would not rule it out. We also ran new wiring at the same time. Also I found that my drain system from the front to back was all clogged up which i could only fix while the boat was apart. It did add the extra work taking it apart but it also eliminated all of the cutting out then finishing off from the out side.
 
If you're good, you can salvage the glass on the outside of the transom to really cut down on cost and time. When you lay new glass, you can see that you are getting a good bond between the glass and wood. If reusing the old, you're going to have to do some things to ensure you get a good bond. I start by lining up the old glass with the transom and drilling some holes all of the way through. Then, I would wet the new wood out with epoxy, then thicken some with West System 404 and Cover everything. Apply the old transom skin, stick a piece of plywood on top, and draw everything together tight with some bolts. Once everythign dries, you remove the plywood, and all you have left to do is bevel out around where you seperated the skin from the rest of the boat and fill that in as well as the holes you made to clamp everything together. It will save you a lot of time faring and a lot of money on materials.
 
76GMC1500 said:
If you're good, you can salvage the glass on the outside of the transom to really cut down on cost and time.  When you lay new glass, you can see that you are getting a good bond between the glass and wood.  If reusing the old, you're going to have to do some things to ensure you get a good bond.  I start by lining up the old glass with the transom and drilling some holes all of the way through.  Then, I would wet the new wood out with epoxy, then thicken some with West System 404 and Cover everything.  Apply the old transom skin, stick a piece of plywood on top, and draw everything together tight with some bolts.  Once everythign dries, you remove the plywood, and all you have left to do is bevel out around where you seperated the skin from the rest of the boat and fill that in as well as the holes you made to clamp everything together.  It will save you a lot of time faring and a lot of money on materials.
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All good stuff but if you used the extra peice of plywood to help pull everthing tight you will need to rub wax on the side pressing against the transom. This will prevent it from sticking to the outer skin when removing as some resin may drip between them when compressing them together. An old candle will work by rubbing down that side of the plywood with the candle. I learned this the hard way.
 
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