Transoms outer skin has been removed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Warner_Foster
  • Start date Start date
repair6.jpg
 
I'll be watching this pretty close. It's looking really good now. I hope to gain a lot of knowledge, I may have to do mine soon.


As to the Kodak easy share, I also have one, but dont use the supplied software that came with it. I just download from the SD card straight to my computer and it works like any other picture.
 
So after the new wood is installed, he will wet the wood with West System, so I am guessing that will bond to the outer skin ? ???
 
If mine ever goets to that point, it'll get put back as a straight, 25" transom and eliminate the 20'' notch...even if I gotta find extension for Honda foot ;) ...that's some great lookin' work, Warner...keep the pics and info flowin' 8) ...and thanks for the assist, Hammer ;) ;D ...you da MAN!!...
 
IF I were putting it back together, I would probably scuff the inside surface, wet out a piece of heavy cloth with epoxy, then 1 sheet of wood, cloth, wood, then outer skin.

There is also the chance that I would do it wrong :o

Airslot
 
hey ,that fiberglass is some nasty stuff huh! Ive rebuilt a few transoms on wooden and glass boats,its a tough job. I did all mine from the inside. I left the outer skin in place to have something to clamp and screw the plyboard to.I used all the holes where swim platform,steps,gimble ect were mounted to put a 2x2 inch block with a stainless steel screw through to pull the plywood tight to the existing glass until the resin squeeses out everywhere.Use plenty of resin. Avoid all air pockets.looks like youll need a lot of long clamps.Check out Wellcraft v20 transom repair,they have some good ideas you might could use.I bought my resin,catylist and chopped mat from local boat builders .I talked with Carolina Classic builders,They use douglass fir,said the resin adheres to it better than pine marine ply.I used marine ply ,it came out fine.looks like you have it under control,keep a eye on the shape of your transom,dont lose that curve!
 
clefton...to do one from the inside, doncha have to remove the cap?...sounds painful...I guess that's why he went from outside...I think I would... ;) ...
 
Another way to do it from the inside is to cut out the splashwell and rear portion of the liner. Its a lot of work to do and glass back in. The guy down the street from me does it that way most times.

Airslot
 
Airslot said:
Another way to do it from the inside is to cut out the splashwell and rear portion of the liner.  Its a lot of work to do and glass back in.  The guy down the street from me does it that way most times.

Airslot
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Werd, Thats how I have done a couple and was doing the 20 before I got rid of her.
 
As long as your will to repaint the transom, I have no issues with going at it fromthe backside. If I had to do mine today, I'd probably go at it just like Warner.

Airslot
 
reel,i didnt remove the transom cap.I cut about 10 inches off the rear of the liner floor,angled it up to about 2-3 inches up the sides to the top of the gunwale.I got ALL the old wood and sprayed in chopped mat and resin out with a 4 inch grinder clean to the outer skin.I then washed it down with acetone a couple of times.Then built it back up with mat and resin until I had a flat surface to glass the plyboard to. I cut the plyboard into three sections ,using cardboard templates i made so as to have correct fits.As I bonded the plyboard to the outer skin ,I used the existing holes in the transom to put wood screws through 2x2 blocks and in the holes into the plyboard, pulling it tight up to the outer skin. I also used all the C and wood clamps I had around in the gimble hole.You have to be careful not to squeeze out too much resin,as it will leave you with a dry joint. I doubled the 3/4 inch ply in the middle section to build the transom back up to 2 inches. After getting all the plyboard in I put an additional 3-4 layers of glass over all my work. I tied my new stringers back in and built a new engine bed for the front mount and a mount for the bilge pump.After covering all with layers glass, I primed and painted all with marine paint.I removed all the screws and blocks from the outside ,chopped up mat really fine and packed in the holes in the empty holes in the transom. I put shorter stainless screws in some of the holes at different spots and glassed over them too,building it back up flat with the outside of the transom .got my neighbor to spray the outside with color and clear Emron paint. After all was done I put the sections of floor back in , glassed over the seam and color matched some gelcoat to cover it all. It really wasnt that complicated, just took a lot of time and elbow grease. I used 2 sheets of 3/4 ply and about nine gallons of resin and a whole lot of heavy chopped mat. I put it back like wellcraft did it and beefed it up a little more. I also glassed around the inside of the hole where the gimble goes,where ALL the bolts go and the drain hole.
 
Oh I forgot to mention how many times I bumped my head on the underside of that transom cap! man that hurt,and dont forget to get yourself a few cases of beer to calm your nerves, youll need em!
 
Has anyone ever used anything besides wood to repair a transom?

I know there are boats on the market now boasting of no wood construction. Just seems like if you go to all the trouble to replace rot you should put something back in that wont rot again.
 
Has anyone ever used anything besides wood to repair a transom?
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Hold that question. I might be able to answer that in the near future. I'm planning on replacing my transom core with Coosa Board. I can already tell you one downside is cost. Reatil for 1 sheet of Bluewater 26 3/4" x 4' x 8' is around 180 bucks. (1 inch thick is about $210) Times that by 2 (of the 3/4") if your looking for the original thickness of the V20 transom. Needless to say if your looking to go thicker it gets more expensive.
 
No new progress on the transom. The temp. has been 48 to 52 degrees and windy, a wee bit cool for me.
Will put two sheets of 3/4 " plywood back in. Why, the first plywood without any TLC lasted 25 plus years. Plus it is many times cheaper than composits. Will put bolts through the lift eye holes, motor bolt holes, drain holes etc. If necessary will drill additional holes for bolts if needed. Also am considering (in addition to bolts) chaining off 4x4's to the trailer frame and pulling pulling them from the top with a come-along braced inside the boat.
However, am sanding and refinishing all the Teak. What a fun task.
Need one Teak guide (the long ones) for the cutty cabin sliding top.
I am always open to suggestions. Have never done anything like this before. However I did spend the night in a Holiday End Express.
 
Plywood holds screws better and is stronger than any composites, don't let anybody tell you it's a bad choice. Also, composites are also subject to the same delamination damage due to water intrustion just like woods are.
 
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