Transom Swells about half an inch

I've heard good reports on Seacast on other forums. The problem is trying to get all the wood out of the transom because the Seacast won't adhere to wood. On my first project V-20 that I took to the dump, I tried digging out the transom with an electric chainsaw and pry bars. It was near impossible. It could be done but I would think it would be extremely time consuming trying to get it clean enough so the Seacast will adhere. The stuffs not cheap and the shipping is high if I remeber correctly.
 
This stuff has been talked about a lot here, We had a member here that used it, but after the repair he disappeared and we never did get to find out the end result???

Getting all the wood out is the hard part!

As for there being a hole big enough for this stuff to go into the bottom of the boat, I don't believe thats a problem.

But most of these boats that have a transom replaced also have some damage to the stringers in the bilge.

This is were I think the real problem is with the Seacast, you have to repair the stringer and you want it to be part of the transom for support, and secast does not stick to wood.

You could just bring the stringers to the inside shell and glass them to the shell with knee boards, But I think it would be much stronger all around to make them as much as one as you can.

So I still think removing the inside shell and repair with wood is the best way to go.
 
Hammer the old V was what brought me to this site. She was a lost cause. I stripped the windshield, gas hatch cover, gas tank, bimini top, seat post and hardware and used every last part on my new 79 V including the trailer. I bought her for $350 without power and dumped her for $60. The amount of parts I got off that boat and to be able to use everyone one of them on my current V was destiny.

I will dig up some pics for you Hammer since I've been giving you a hard time lately ;)
 
RP, I think his wife types his posts for him. Maybe the reason he always wants pics is because he can't read. I may be wrong though. I better watch it. I have relatives that live in Lewes. ;)
 
It is the off season, need pics to keep us guys going until we can get our boats wet again. relatives in Lewes, Hmmm, Where ?? ;D
 
macojoe said:
This stuff has been talked about a lot here, We had a member here that used it, but after the repair he disappeared and we never did get to find out the end result???

Getting all the wood out is the hard part!  

As for there being a hole big enough for this stuff to go into the bottom of the boat, I don't believe thats a problem.

But most of these boats that have a transom replaced also have some damage to the stringers in the bilge.

This is were I think the real problem is with the Seacast, you have to repair the stringer and you want it to be part of the transom for support, and secast does not stick to wood.

You could just bring the stringers to the inside shell and glass them to the shell with knee boards, But I think it would be much stronger all around to make them as much as one as you can.

So I still think removing the inside shell and repair with wood is the best way to go.
Click to expand...
I don't think people know how easy it is to remove the inner shell. It sounds like such a big job but I found it to be very easy.
 
I did some boat work for one of my neighbors on some rotted wood and what I did was cleaned out the rotted wood as best as I could and then I poured resin and layed glass. I wasn't able to get every bit of wood out but I hand painted a coat of resin over everything. Before it hardened I used seacast foam on top of that. He still has the boat and so far (knock on wood) it hasn't shown any signs of cracking or seperating.

One member is right it's expensive and shipping is almost as bad.
 
hey billfish ,im new to this site too . listen to these fellas they know what theyre talking about, i havea 77 v20 i/o i rebuilt the transom in ,it took a lot of time but it was well worth it. i cut the inner skin out and the wood core was like dirt. i couldnt tell until i cut some small holes in it around the gimble . i then cut it ALL out ,cleaned it up ,and built it back with two layers of marine ply and layers and layers of chopped mat and about eight gallons of resin.i bought the glass and resin from a boat builder (carolina classic) close by. the marine ply was 3/4 inch and was 86.00 a sheet. it is strong as hell now. i hope i never have to worry about it again. carolina classic builders use fir ply ,they say the resin bonds to very good .dont play around with a bad transom ,it is the driving force of the whole boat.
 
Thanks to all for your feedback. I live over an hour away from the boat and I plan on visiting her next weekend if the weather is not horrible. I will take pics and post them.

Bill
 
billfish, I've been keepin' my boat about an hour down the road...15 min from lake...has its drawbacks(can't work on it), but don't have to trailer as far... :D ...
 
Attached, I think/hope, are some pics of the transom under the cap.

I drilled down about an inch or two and the shavings seemed to clean and dry.









Billfish
 
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