Transom replacement

Here are some pics:

Cleaned up with grinder, cut out all voids, wiped down with acetone

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Made a cardboard template, traced onto 3 pieces of 1/2" ply, cut ply, then started trimming the glass mat, 3 layers of 1.5oz mat, 2 layers of 0/90 1808 biaxial stitch mat, and two layers of +/- 45 1808 biaxial stitch mat

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On the boat I laminated pieces into ground out voids, then applied epoxy, wet out 1 layer of 1.5oz mat and let that sit while I went to work on the core.

On a bench I wet out one sheet of plywood, laid down one sheet of 1.5oz mat, rolled/wet out, laied second sheet of plywood, wet/rolled out 1.5oz mat, laid third sheet of 1/2"ply. Now I had a 1.5" thick sandwich of ply/mat/ply/mat. Took this over to the boat, troweled on a thickened mixture of cabosil/epoxy to the transom perimeter and the inside face of my transom slab ( the face that will be laminated to the Hulls skin. Everything is still wet and sticky at this point.

Dropped the transom core in and began clamping and screwing. I should be able to remove all screws as none are trapped in the core. I began clamping and screwing starting at the transom center line, hoping to get an even/equal bend

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Everything seems to have pulled snug. I ran out of time and could not laminate my biaxial sheets onto the face of the ply. Will hit it all with a grinder and finish lay up hopefully this weekend if there is no rain. The overall lamination schedule is:

1.5oz mat
1/2"ply
1.5oz mat
1/2"ply
1.5oz mat
1/2"ply
0/90 1808 biaxial stitch mat
+/- 45 1808 biaxial stitch mat
0/90 1808 biaxial stitch mat
+/- 45 1808 biaxial stitch mat
 
dam, between you and Hammer, you two are the transom brothers. I have learned so much watching you two, I am thinking of doing my own. ;)
 
Looks great and sounds like a awsome job!!

But I have one question, The V20 has a curve to the transom, and if you glassed all toghter on a bench then put in boat, how did you maintain the curve??
 
Thanks. Hammers picture prodding is what has kept me motivated, and Im trying to beat the weather at this point.

I figured and was hoping that the 1/2" ply was flexible enough to make the bend even with all the glass and resin. It seems to have worked. All the layers were still wet so as I clamped and screwed the ply was able to "slip" and conform to the transom bend. I clamped everything as best as I could first, putting a bolt with washers through the transom drain hole on the bottom to suck in the bottom of the transom, and clamping along the top. Then screwed through the motor mount holes, and scupper holes bracing with the plywood backers. Then lastly put screws into the other side (inner hull side) to tighten everything together.

I think starting the clamping screwing from the center of the transom and working out toward the edges is important to help the slip. If I started throwing screws in around the edges things would have had a harder time bending. Im just making this up as I go but so far so good.
 
Mako, great job brother. I'm glad that I inspired somebody. ;) I was inspired to do my transom by Skool, Stinky and Bigshrimp. Why pay someone else to do it, if we can do it ourselves. Plus all the member support here kept me going. Thats why we have teh best site online. ;) 8)
Love the pics. ;D
 
wpearch said:
what isit with msbhammer and picks next he will want vido lol
Click to expand...
He likes those to, but most of us can't make decent videos. We can take decent pictures though with a cheapo camera. But don't be givin him no ideas about video's, then we'll really be in trouble. I don't want to imagine a STINKY video :o.
 
Amko, what are your plans on the stringers. They dont look that bad with the old glass pulled off. Resin in wood on both side of te old stringers, then tie them in to the transom and glas over. ??? ??? or are you yanking out the stringers ???
 
The stringer wood is good, as far as what I see. Im gonna retab them to the hull and to the transom, maybe add a little knee in the transom area. At least the aft bulk head (under the console area of the floor) is rotten and that will be replaced. Hopefully when I cut out the rest of the floor the stringers/bulkheads are still good.
 
Thanks guys! I think the next step is to cut out the floor. Im only gonna cut up to the forward casting deck, removing the deck would be too much work for me right now. After the floor is off Ill have a good idea of the stringer situation. Ill take out that rotten bulk head and cut new ply for a a new one of those. Then hopefully I can just re tab in the bulk head, then tab in the stringers. Last thing will be to connect the stringers to the transom. Ill try to cut that deck out tomorrow. The deck is solid so Im gonna take it out in one piece, leaving a good perimeter to retab it back into the boat after the stringer work.
 
Yup, before I put the liner in Ill cap it with some glass. I cut the floor today, that sucker is heavy. Gonna need a couple a beers in me to lift that out...
 
Here are the latest pics. Had my brother up on thanksgiving and had him help me lift the floor out. Too out the rotten aft bulkhead. Used a hand saw to cut the flotation foam in half and removed it in two big pieces. Im gonna try to reuse the foam.

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Next Im gonna cut out any loose pieces of glass and hit the surfaces with a grinder to get ready for re-tabbing.
 
Lookin good. I need to do the same to a 2x3 section of my floor. Not sure if the wood is soft or it flexs because its no longer glued to the stringers. Keep up the Great Work !!
 
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