Transom motor mount torque specs

C

Casper

New member
Hello V20 friends. I have a 1989 Wellcraft 20 fish center console. I need to pull the Yamaha 200 outboard to replace the steering cable. I’m not sure what to torque the bolts that go through the transom to attach the motor to. Thanks.
 
45-55 lb/ft is spec, but if you are using lock nuts, you're going to have to tighten further as the locking part of the nut will take more torque. Watch the transom while you tighten them. If you hear crunching or see teh washers start to pull in, stop right there. Retighten after you run the boat
 
You do have to watch those S.S.washers that they don’t go into the transom. I had some so called mechanic install a steering cable years ago and in the process crushed the skin on the transom where the bolts go thru
What I did was put a transom saver on . It’s been on ever since
Also just an idea. I notched out where the cables go thru and the cable goes thru so next time I don’t have to remove the engine. You just need a little give way. And covered the hole with a roof boot that I got from Home Depot. And itworks fine it’s a plastic flange with a rubber boot. All the cables and wires go thru it. Also I cut the boot ( sliced it) on top so I didn’t have to disconnect the wires. Just my two cents. I hope that helps. Get yourself a transom saver.
 
G
spareparts said:
45-55 lb/ft is spec, but if you are using lock nuts, you're going to have to tighten further as the locking part of the nut will take more torque. Watch the transom while you tighten them. If you hear crunching or see teh washers start to pull in, stop right there. Retighten after you run the boat
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Great. Thanks for the info.
 
steplift20 said:
You do have to watch those S.S.washers that they don’t go into the transom. I had some so called mechanic install a steering cable years ago and in the process crushed the skin on the transom where the bolts go thru
What I did was put a transom saver on . It’s been on ever since
Also just an idea. I notched out where the cables go thru and the cable goes thru so next time I don’t have to remove the engine. You just need a little give way. And covered the hole with a roof boot that I got from Home Depot. And itworks fine it’s a plastic flange with a rubber boot. All the cables and wires go thru it. Also I cut the boot ( sliced it) on top so I didn’t have to disconnect the wires. Just my two cents. I hope that helps. Get yourself a transom saver.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I built a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum plate to go in the splash well when I put it back together. I might notch out where the cables go through too. Was gonna go back with a sea star unit, but would still have to pull the motor to get the bar in that goes through the tilt tube.
 
I don’t know about you but I’m not talented enough to pull the motor
Notch out the hole that the cable goes thru it it’s much easier and it’s only a little notch. And l8ke I said. Go to Home Depot and look in the insulation or roofing dept. it’s a black plastic flange and a black with rubber end extentended all one piece. I cut/ split the plastic so a i didn’t have to remove and cables And what’s good about it is that it doesn’t break down after time. I guess since it goes on a roof it’s sun proof. Doesn’t break down.
 
Check out Lowes. Put up roof boot vent. You will see what I’m talking about. You can trim it down to a size that will work for you. Hope that helps
 
steplift20 said:
Check out Lowes. Put up roof boot vent. You will see what I’m talking about. You can trim it down to a size that will work for you. Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the info. I might swing by Lowe’s today after church. I’ll post some pictures when I get it completed.
 
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