trailers surge brakes

Pablo, I just went thru this entire thread and there's a can of worms here that you'll sort thru in time...

Pacifica's a helluva vehicle, but I doubt it'll stand up to more than just short-hauls to a nearby ramp...and if ya ever back it into saltwater, your wife will most likely KILL you over the resulting damage, then ALL your problems will be done ;D ... is there a transmission cooler on the Pacifica...needs to be if ya gonna tow w/ it ;) ...

...and to all the no-brakes-needed believers...ya shoulda been ridin' right-seat w/ me Fri-nite on I-85...I'm doin' 65...MORON in blinged-out old Caddy comes off the ramp, crosses into my lane and SLOWS DOWN ::) ...I've never gotten harder on a brake pedal than tryin' to avoid hittin' this obvious-insuranceless-idiot (O.I.I.)...couldn't swerve w/ trailer on and glad for all FOUR discs on the trailer...still can't believe no contact...SO CLOSE ...

My F-150 has Bemcos on front, discs all around; EXCELLENT braking power, but w/ out trailer brakes, I'd be turnin' in a claim as we speak...I'm SURE of it ;) :P ...

Tie-Down's 6600 actuator is great, but for best braking, put Kodiak's discs w/ it...JMHO... ;) ...

Good luck w/ it...post some pics when ya can and let us know how it goes... 8) ...
 
skpablo said:
TinMan. My owners manual and Uhaul who installed the hitch says 3500 #s. Hope they are right! Again agreed though it's probably better to be safe than sorry.
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Sorry bout dat....didn't see the Pacifica part of your post, thought you were towing with Chrsler 300...my bad :-/
 
All, thanks for all the information, advice, comments, and humor. This is a great site and I am glad to be aboard. I am sure I will be back to you guys with more questions soon and I prepare to install electronics and make small repairs.

I think I will stay very local until I repair the brakes. There is a boat ramp inmy neighgorhood via which I can be in the chesapeake in about 20 mins so I am sure I won't get bored soon.

As soon as I figure out how to do it. I will post a Pic the boat as she looks presently.
 
OK here's a pic of the boat. [im
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Thanks Turbo.

Motor checked out OK according to Marina. Had the carbs done. Been working on it cosmetically. Need bottom paint. Maybe this weekend. Gotta sand prime and paint the lower unit of the O/B. Bimini being repaired. New cushions being made.

Want to get her out on the bay before it gets too cold.
 
Pablo, that's a great lookin' '88...you gonna enjoy that...keep us posted on what ya do w'/ her...looks like a full-width seat across back...

...and GA numbers...where'd ya find it?
:D ...
 
TinMan,

Will snap some pics of interior. It's in pretty good shape.


Reelapeelin,

My brother bought and owned the boat 1989-2002. Orginally in CT and then he moved it to Michigan after transferring to Chicago. In 2002 he begged me to buy it but I didn't so a family friend in Atlanta bought it. When I heard the friend now wanted to sell it I decided it needed to be back in the family.

Brother kept in pristine condition in all aspects. Unfortunately family friend did not.

She has never seen salt water. Only Fresh. Which is why I am a little baffled by the degradation of the lower unit of the outboard.

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Pablo , It looks as if it was left in the water with the motor down instead of up. From looking at the photo I did not see any zinc. Check to make sure you have zinc on it. Ihave heard that some motors have the zinc in the little tab that sticks down behind the prop. What do you call that thing (trim tab, steering stabilizer, anti torque) I know what it is for but cant think of what its called.
 
Turbo,

I believe it is called an anode. It is in the picture just above the prop. I was told and show by the marina that there is also a "U" shaped one at the very bottom of the engine mount.
 
Yamaha has the U shaped one under the mounting bracket.

There is a stainless grouind wire that connects to the lower part of the motor, you have to make sure that it is clean and mounted tight, so it makes a good connetion. This is what stops the corrision!

But leaving it all the way down in the water is not a good Idea!!!
 
There have been people that clean and sand lower unit then use marin tex or formula 27 to fill all the holes, sand nice then paint, Lower unit will look brand new!!

If you want to go to that much work??
 
MacoJoe,

So I have 2? One under the cav plate and the other under the mounting bracket? Looking out there on the Web there seems to be a big difference in what I have to pay for them. one sight is 12.00 and another is $25.
 
Are they all shot?? They rot away, if they are not rotted they are fine.

The U shaped one was broke in half before I replaced!
 
No they don't look that bad. Don't really know if they need replacing but if they are only 12$ each then what the heck. plus the comment was made that maybe my lower unit looked a little rough due to zincs (bad)?
 
they not bad if not rotted!!

If anything the wire to the lower unit might not be working??

It need to connect to make the zinc work!
 
skpablo said:
No they don't look that bad. Don't really know if they need replacing but if they are only 12$ each then what the heck. plus the comment was made that maybe my lower unit looked a little rough due to zincs (bad)?
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I think, while zincs HELP, they do not STOP corrosion....previous owner musta just left motor down all the time while in the salt...
 
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