Trailer dealers that ship??

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockinrebel
  • Start date Start date
I have had a full roller trailer under my '88 model since it was new and don't have any indentions or roller marks. The key is to get plenty of rollers. Many manufactures skimp on them. I bought the best trailer I could find and then added a few more rollers just for kicks. I would recommend this trailer(Holesclaw) but they went out of business 10 years ago. The trailers were functional and most people want pretty.

I use my rollers too. I just back the trailer down near the water and roll the boat off. Then I use an electric winch to pull her back on. Never get the trailer wet. It is a little extra work but my trailer is 17 years old and has very little rust and I have never had any bearing problems. I have never seen a ramp that I could not launch at and by keeping my drive tires far from the water I have never spun a tire pulling out.
 
I will usually bow to Lord Skools opinion on such matters and I have to replace the rollers and add some rollers on mine so I want to know more about why you prefer bunks and what will I have to do to change over to bunks. If you please Mr. Skools
 
Willy, Phester and Groover said it above...it's what you become accustomed to...if you already got rollers and they are 90% or better in good shape, then I'd repair...but if I had lots of rollers in need of replacin', I go bunks faster than grease thru a goose... ;) ;D...
 
Why RAP, the bunk trailers, at least the ones I've had you have to dunk that whole trailer each time you launch and recover, don't that wear the h@ll out of the lights bunks bearings etc
 
hey willy just hose pipe the bunks so you can put someone in the boat and back down the ramp and just as the boat enters the water nail the brakes and the boat will slide right off into the water just like it's on grease.

I've changed several over to bunks. just take the outter rollers off and the make your bunks long enough to work with your boat and then mount with bunk brackets on the trailers cross braces.
 
your home water hose and wet the bunks before you launch. i always crank my motor before i go to the ramp then wet the bunks or rollers too. then it unloads very easy. Plus it starts right up too lol.
 
I do the same thing too Skools, that is, start 'er up b4 I get to the ramp. Dunk it in,touch the key, park the truck,jump in the boat and go. I've seen countless weekend boaters take 20 mins. to launch, and then jump in their boat, back out into a current that can be ripping...STALL....then ...SMASH...then he yells at his kids or wife
 
I've had both roller and bunk trailers over the years. Roller trailers are definately nice for the ease of loading and launching, but a heck of a lot more maintenance and cost over bunks. Anything much bigger than a V20, I'd probably go roller. btw; I don't know about youz guys, but I've always had to dunk my trailers the same amount wether roller or bunk. With a bunk trailer, I've found that you back them in until the fender is sticking out of the water approximately 3" and you're good to go every time. Every boat is slightly different though and after a few trips you'll soon learn the sweet spot. Then mark the front of the fender or upright guide posts with reflective tape at the waterline. That way, if you're with someone else and they back down the trailer for you, just tell them to back it down to the tape line. The reflective tape will help out at night for the darkness fishing trips. Most of the local ramps around here do not allow power loading, but if there's no one on duty, I'll periodically do it just to save time. Just drive it up on to within 12" or so, leave it in forward gear with slight power, go up and hook the strap, shut it down, then winch the last little bit. ;)
 
Most around here that are staffed with a town or Harbormaster personnel don't allow it. It eventually erodes the sand at the end of the ramp, then people end up getting their trailer stuck at low tides. ::)
 
I've never used a bunk trailer, but I'm pretty confident that rollers won't do much damage. Been sitting on the trailer for 20 winters (that's mid oct-early june, and a foot or two of snow on the tarp) without any noticable damage. On power loadings, I'd just recommend that you don't pretend you're James Bond. I once watched a smart man get confused about his identity, misjudge the current, and ended up parking his boat next to his truck on dry concrete ramp. I think the trick is to keep it under 30 mph.
 
I have had both, and I have had the some of the worse $hit trailers you see on he road!!

I love my brand new Load-rite!! I think it depends were and how your water is, on what trailer you use.

If you have a small tide change and a flat ramp then bunks work great.
Here on Cape Cod the Tide on the N side can be as mauch as 15 feet different!! Which leaves you on a step ramp with not much water atlow tide.
I see guys with bunks that have to sit and wait 2 hours for the tide to get there boats in.

They really hate it when I back down with all my rollers and just drive it on, lock and load and I am gone!!

I love rollers and would have nothing else! The scary thing for me is that just a small incline my boat wants to fly off the trailer!! I have almost lost it on the ramp before!
Now I wait till I am at the water before anything gets unhooked.
right CB!! :o
 
You got that right MJ Saw a guy drop his newer Angler CC right on the concrete ramp, did not sound or look good, I was already in sitting on the side dock waiting to go and BANG. The guys told me he used his power winch to pull it right back on but it had major grinding of hull :(
 
LONG time ago, I went fishin' w/a PRO-BASS ANGLER...by the end of the day, he was so drunk, when I backed his trailer down (w/my '74 Riviera), I looked up in the mirror and saw him comin' at the trailer so fast, his bow went sideways PAST the winch-stand and stopped 1/2'' from the trunk of my car...never went w/him again... ::)...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top