NOTHING ELSE MATTERS
Junior Member
My boat came originaly with the Inca tank i mentioned before. The tank tag has a manufacturer date of 1990, so it has to be original.
this years winter project
- Thread starter captpete13
- Start date
Geekie1
Junior Member
Hi NOTHINGELSEMATTERS,
Your V20 is a 1990 V20 Sport Cuddy. I don't know about your boat and the fuel tanks or where they are located in the 1990 V20 Sport Cuddy. I have a 1984 V20 Cuddy. The the Inca tank in your boat (F06008) will not fit in my V20. I am not saying that the Inca tank you have is not correct for your boat, I am saying that it will not fit in my boat without raising the floor or making a custom floor hatch over the tank. Also, I am not saying that the Inca tank will not fit captpete13's V20. The location of captpete13's original fuel tank in the pictures appear to be in the same location as my boat. However, the dead rise angle of the deep V hull at the transom to about amidships of the V20 (about 23 degrees) has not changed since Raymond Hunt, (the naval architect that designed the V20) originally designed the boat. I am not trying to be argumentative, just trying to give everyone the benefit of my unpleasant fuel tank experience's with my 1984 V20 Cuddy!
Geek
Your V20 is a 1990 V20 Sport Cuddy. I don't know about your boat and the fuel tanks or where they are located in the 1990 V20 Sport Cuddy. I have a 1984 V20 Cuddy. The the Inca tank in your boat (F06008) will not fit in my V20. I am not saying that the Inca tank you have is not correct for your boat, I am saying that it will not fit in my boat without raising the floor or making a custom floor hatch over the tank. Also, I am not saying that the Inca tank will not fit captpete13's V20. The location of captpete13's original fuel tank in the pictures appear to be in the same location as my boat. However, the dead rise angle of the deep V hull at the transom to about amidships of the V20 (about 23 degrees) has not changed since Raymond Hunt, (the naval architect that designed the V20) originally designed the boat. I am not trying to be argumentative, just trying to give everyone the benefit of my unpleasant fuel tank experience's with my 1984 V20 Cuddy!
Geek
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Geekie1
Junior Member
Hi MJ,
I may be wrong but, the problem with V20 fuel tanks corroding did not effect saddle tanks because they were not in the bilge and I don't think they were foamed in. As I understand it, the foamed in 60 gallon tanks corroded from the outside-in due to trapped bilge water penetrating the foam and corroding the outside of the tank.
Geek
I may be wrong but, the problem with V20 fuel tanks corroding did not effect saddle tanks because they were not in the bilge and I don't think they were foamed in. As I understand it, the foamed in 60 gallon tanks corroded from the outside-in due to trapped bilge water penetrating the foam and corroding the outside of the tank.
Geek
captpete13
Senior Member
No real progress since the pics. We have been so busy winterizing I haven't had the motovation to do anything. Its amazing,we had been steady but not busy winterizing for a while. Right after Thanksgiving it went nuts. Now everyone wants out. I guess I will take it while I can get it. After I get some Christmas shopping done I should be able to make more progress on the boat. But for now I am a winterizing robot. Fog the motor,change gearlube,grease,nontox nontox nontox.... Next
captpete13
Senior Member
Its been a while but I finally started to work on the boat again. Yesterday I spent well over 2 hours grinding fiberglass. Not exactly fun. Today I made cardboard templates of the new bulkheads then transferred them to 3/4 plywood. I also cut a 2" dia PVC pipe in half and laid it in for bilge drainage. Hopefully tomorrow I will be applying fiberglass.
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captpete13
Senior Member
lumberslinger178
God
looks good capt....
reelapeelin
God
Great work, Pete!!...looks like she'll be ready before the Spring thaw...
captpete13
Senior Member
thanks guys. I still have a long way to go. So far its going pretty good. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to set up the fishbox. That should start going together next week. I'm going to try to get the other two bulkheads up today.
captpete13
Senior Member
thanks nymack. I could of used some help yesterday. I glassed in the other two bulkheads. They were a little harder because they are below the floor that is still attached to the boat. When in place there is only 3/4" clearance between them. The way I apply fiberglass is I put the cloth on a piece of cardboard,completely wet it with resin. Then pull it off the cardboard and put it in place on the boat. It was pretty challenging pulling this giant sheet of wet woven roving through a 3/4" slot but I did it. It turned out pretty good,so far. My wife has to work till 3 today so I have some time to kill. Maybe I can get some more done today.
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reelapeelin
God
Capt, you got some great lookin' work goin' on there...one question though and admittedly, I might not be seeing something...the sections between the bulkheads appear to be well sealed off from each other with no way for water to run to the stern should it get into those sections sooner or later...also keep in mind I've never done this level of work, but should there be a way for water to find it's way aft from inside those areas?...
captpete13
Senior Member
your right reel. I don't plan on any water getting into those areas. the aft one is for the gas tank and the fwd one is for the fishbox. the pvc running down the keel will drain any water from fwd of the fishbox to the aft bilge. I really lucked out today. One of the guys I work with started to make a pen for his alligator but never finished it. Now he gave away the gator and he said I could have the pen for its plywood to use on my project. Also in the pen is a rectangular shaped pond tub. It looked like it might work for my fishbox. So I put it in the boat for a test fit. IT FITS PERFECT! Once its foamed in place it should work just fine. I'm going to put a 1 1/2" drain in the bottom and plumb it to a macerator for pumping it out. Here are some pics. Let me know what you guys think. Sure beats building one out of plywood and fiberglass.
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NOTHING ELSE MATTERS
Junior Member
Captpete, no disrespect to you or your work(is really amazing), but water eventualy WILL get there, even condesation. What i would do in your case now is i would drill some holes on the PVC tube just for the "in case water gets there" theory. When you make your cover for your gas tank you will have to install an inspection plate, maybe two of them, those things leak after a while. I would think it twice about no drains between bulkheads before i cover the floor.
captpete13
Senior Member
I had thought about drilling some drain holes in the pvc in the event of water leaking in. But then standing bilge water will always be able to wick up into the foam. The bilge is never dry. The way the pump is setup there is always about 2" of water back there that the pump can't get out. I think I would rather calk the s**t out of everything as I put it together. Plus I figure if everthing if foamed in properly there is no room for condensation.
Excellent work there Captpete! Looks like you've got everything under control. The only thing I would consider is as others said and drill maybe 3/8-1/2in. holes in that drain pipe next to your keel. I often wonder how the water gets in, but it ALWAYS seem to find a way into your bilge. I keep a really nice boat cover on my V and keep it under the front of an old store next door out of the weather. The other day I went out to winterize it, raised the bow up and found about 5 gallons of water in the bilge. I guess it blew up under the shed roof and seeped through the cover somehow. Water can splash into the rod holders, bilge vents and deck hatches and always seem to find a way in. When I rebuilt my V, I could see where water got in and sat in the bilge causing rot and damage that I replaced.
Guy's when I open my Tank area it was sealed off also with no drains etc. I insert a new polymer tank and marine foamed (close cell foam) it back in.
The top of my tank is curved in naturally so if any water penetrates in or condensation I would have see the accumulation on top of the tank, Just out of curiosity I opened one of the inspection hatch cover and have never seen any traces of water, I however saw 2 stroke oil this was because I did not tighten the fuel sender screws correctly which I have since corrected. I finished a tube of 5200 sealing the seam around the deck.
My thought process was I wanted to isolate this area in case the Tank pops a hole and leaks fuel, at lease it will be contained to this area only and will not hit the bilge pump and I go Kabul
Foam
Gel
PITA 5200 applied
The top of my tank is curved in naturally so if any water penetrates in or condensation I would have see the accumulation on top of the tank, Just out of curiosity I opened one of the inspection hatch cover and have never seen any traces of water, I however saw 2 stroke oil this was because I did not tighten the fuel sender screws correctly which I have since corrected. I finished a tube of 5200 sealing the seam around the deck.
My thought process was I wanted to isolate this area in case the Tank pops a hole and leaks fuel, at lease it will be contained to this area only and will not hit the bilge pump and I go Kabul
Foam
Gel
PITA 5200 applied
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Please don't laugh at me Guy's if this is silly for reasons I don't know. Why not seal off the area and use it without any insert at all for your fish box? Will the material this insert you are trying to use hold up to the elements?