The Motor won't start??

THEFERM's hitting everything right.
Did the guy say when the motor last ran?
9 months will start varnishing of gas. Ethanol, I don't know.
 
I've seen these V-6 loopers idle at 2000, and then drop down to a 600 idle in the water. Back pressure is VERY crucial on a looper. Loopers flow more efficiently up high, and tend to produce more high rpm HP, whereas cross-flows pull extremely good down low. This is why many people were dissapointed with loopers when they first came out. There boats would rocket on plane with the C.F. engine but fall off up high, the loopers would struggle to get on plane but once they got on top would fly up high. This is why most small HP engines are C.F.'s. Don't pass judgement on the engine until you get it in the water.
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So far the guy I got the motor from has been honset all the way!

He said he had it tuned in the begin of the summer, and all eletric, staor, starter, coils, cdi's were change in the last year!

the only thing is he said that all compression was 112 to 115, and I got 97 to 100 but that just might mean the gauges read different?? But they are all good numbers.

I will do nothing till I get it in the water and see what happens!!
 
It will be 3 weeks, since the motor ran. It ran a week before shipping day and it has been almost 2 weeks since I got it.
 
Have the gas hooked up to the motor and remove the carb plugs, spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner thru the jets, then pump the bubble to clear the other crap out.
If the carbs sprayed the same, reinstall the plugs and see if the motor acts right.
 
Thanks, But as therm said that might be to harsh on the plastic??

I am going to get it to the boat ramp soon and try it, before I do anything.
 
Here is a basic rundown of the adjustments on an early JOHNNY-RUDE looer(85-87, 88 changed styles). You firts start by loosening the 2 screws on the carbs(carb ramp and sync). Then you adjust the idle stop screw on the main linkage so that the line on the ramp points at the middle of the roller on the carb arm(see pics for red arrows). Tighten the lock-nut on the idle stop screw. Then push the carb arm lightly against the carb pick-up ramp and tighten the screw on the carb arm. The roller should be snug against the ramp, but not opening the butterfly's at all on the carbs( the roller should be able to turn still without much resistence) If there are any flat spots on the roller, replace it. Then you put slight tension on the carb sync arm and tighten the screw on it. You want it so that when the carbs open, the 2 shafts move at the same time(it can take a little practice to get this adjustment down). Then you want to open the throttle to WOT. Set the WOT stop screw so that the WOT reference marks on the carb pickup arm point's staright forward. Lock the screw down on the linkage arm. Link and sync is done now.

Now you need it in the water to do the rest, a helper is strongly advised(actaully just about required). And a timing light is required at this point. Put it in the water and bring it up to temp(small-bore loopers react to engine temp fairly drastically). Connect your timing light, and put it in gear(you can try this adjustment with it on the trailer still, to hold it still. But your not guaranteed to get the RPM's up enough. You need to set your total timing to 18 degrees BTDC @ 5000 RPM's, the CDI box will advance the timing with RPM's and total timing specs are for 5000 RPM's. One turn out on the screw will advance the timing 1 degree, and one turn in retards 1 degree. Lock the jamb-nut down tightly once you have 18, verify adjustment with lock-nut tightened. Now bring it back to idle and set your idle speed to around 650 in gear. you turn the idle screw in to lower it, and out to raise it. the lock-nut on the idle speed set screw likes to come loose easily.

Now your done, engine set. the basic tools you will need for this job are a 1/4" blade flat head screw-driver, timing light, 7/16" wrench and a 7/16" deep well socket with a 6" extension.

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A few more pics for ya MJ, these show the T-stats and the coolant lines. You can take the 2 lines off from the block and make sure they are not plugged.The tee is known to get plugged up on these and cause no tell-tale or weak stream. The T-stat control valve directs water to the front side of the T-stats and hold them into the block. These engines are designed to bypass the T-stats from about 25% throttle on by stopping the water flow the front of the T-stats and allowing the water pressure to push the T-stats off there seat and move the diaphrams out.

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Wow thats all great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am printing it all out as we speak ;)

I will be putting boat in the water sometime after the weekend and see what happens!

Just talked to CB Now he weants toi come up, I said yea now that tyhe work is done!!
He just laughed! >:(


Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!! I still be straching my head with out you's!!
 
msbhammer said:
Damm Therm. You done your homework. Great Pics. That should get MJ up and running.  ;)
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The 140 I got was a complete basket case when i got it, that's how I got it. The previous owner couldn't find anybody to ever get it to run right, and he only had it for 2 months. The guy he bought it from unloaded his problem child onto him. The guy I got it from spent too much money on it with another mechanic that couldn't get it to run on all 4. He brought it to me, and I got it to run but it still wouldn't wind up smoothly. Then it overheated and burned up #2 cylinder, so he told me to keep it.

At this point I took it on as a challenge to get this thing running right again(I'm EXTREMELY STUBBORN!!!, and PERSISTENT). So I rebuilt it, and then started sorting it all out. Thus how I learned about JOHNNY-RUDE loopers. Now I can set em up almost blindfolded.
 
Well it looks like a choke problem??

After letting it sit all night there is no start?

But after I sprayed with starter fluid it fired right up and will evertime after that!

I here nothing at the motor when we push the key in??

Can you FL guys start with no choke cause it is warm there?
 
MJ if I'm not mistaken, the choke dosen't close the butterflys (on that model) but just scoots (or makes it able to) gas directly into the throat of the carbs.
I do have a 30 like that and I think my 150 does that.
When I choke mine, I don't hear anything but it does choke it.
Yours does have a small flag type lever to manually choke it? If so try that.
For those of you that have forgotten (I did) this is an "86 225hp.
 
Yes I have the red flag, I turned it up and throtteled up and she started like a charm!! But I had to run back there before it stalled and turn it down to stay running. Here she is running

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Next problem I think I know were all the water is going!!

Whats going on here??

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It even comes out were the missing Zinc screw is??

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well the real thing first is the choke, I can't be having to remove the cover and turning that flag all the time??

My key switch seems funky and wonder if it doesn't work right, or if there is a problem with the selnoid for the choke??

I will swap out the key switch tomorow?
 
Solenoid or key switch will do that to the choke.
What kind of maintance has been done? Is it possible they misaligned the tube from the water pump or an o-ring or seal is split?
 
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