TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

I am in the process of re-doing the teak on my V20. I am using Cetol Light and the teak looks great. I have used Cetol on the teak on other boats I have owned, and I have also used teak oil and other products. IMHO, there is no better, longer lasting finish than Cetol. The Cetol light gives a natural looking satin finish which looks like oiled teak but doesn't darken the wood too much. It is kind of expensive, but it lasts at least 3-4 years and then needs to be scuffed up with a plastic 3M pad and given a new coat. The regular Cetol Marine darkens the teak in my opinion. I don't work for Sikkens Cetol and have no association with people who sell their products.
 
well I had my hands on the Cetol and next to it [among a few other brands] was the Armada. Was told by two reps. at two different stores that Cetol and Armada were at one time or another the same company. Both guys said the same thing....Cetol is an excellent product, but it is a two stage process....three coats of "pigment" and then three coats of "sealant", each can about 27.00. The Armada is, in essence, the same thing in one can, around 28.00. Both need about 24hrs. between coats. So I thought 1/2 the time,1/2 the labor and1/2 the cost I was sold on the Armada. Hoping I made the right move I started working on it as soon as I got home. Wiped all teak down w/ acetone, last sanding w/400 grit and started laying it on. So far it looks great, a shade darker than anticipated but as it dries ,it's getting a little lighter. The other advantage to the Armada is that you can keep laying it on 3,4,5 years later without having to sand it down again.I hope I get alot of "truth in advertising"
 
Phester, The last timeI redid the Whaler I used the Armada(for the same reasons you listed). It seems to be working fine.
Geekie1, I didn't know that about the 3m pad. I have been taking the teak down to bare wood and starting over, I'll try the scotch pad method
 
Phester,

Not that I'm an expert at this, but this is what I found out when I researched this last year. It might be a two step process only if you want a real high gloss. You have to have the "1st" step on under it because thats where all the UV inhibitors are. I'm pretty sure this was confirmed from the side of the can. If I get a chance I'll get the can and check it out. BTW I got a can of it on sale at West Marine for $17.99. I only went with the one step Cetol Light Satin. It's been on my deck box covers for maybe 9 months.

I wouldn't waste my time and money on the oil, I did. I bet the nice looking finish didn't last a month.

Scott

seats.jpg
 
shicks , your boat looks great, did a nice job on her. It was suggested to me NOT to use the Armada on floor decks or swim platforms because the Armada already has the "poly" built into it, becomes a slip hazard, the Cetol alone,the can you would use in step #1,is better for foot traffic areas. BTW I went w/ the satin rather than the glossier look.
 
Shicks, you may have just uncovered the original reason I didn't leave teak in my boat...OILING...THAT'S what I kept hearin' was such a PAIN and had to be done so often ::)...not that I'm gonna start jerkin' all the ''tupperware'' outta mine, but I really do like the look teak gives a boat and secretly admire you guys who take the time to carry on a great boatin' tradition ;) 8)...
 
Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUTTHE

The Cetol Marine Light I used was a one part application, didn't need to buy a different second can. The recommended number of coats on the teak is determined by the teak being new wood or old weathered teak. Naturally, my teak was very old weathered teak which took some teak cleaner, and then sanding with a ROS. The bilge/battery door by the OB engine well had a teak plywood center panel that had delaminated. I found a boat lumber place in Marathon FL. that had new teak marine plywood that you could buy by the square ft. Believe me, you dont want to buy a 4x8 sheet of teak marine plywood. Buying by the square foot is expensive enough!!! It's almost as expensive as starboard!!!

The teak plywood website is:

www.buckwoodcraft.com
 
I used Cetol on my old albemarle about 3 years ago and other than scrapes from dropped sinkers etc, it still looks great and it sits out all the time without a cover. Frank
 
well, it's all done and I must say it came out very nice. Got 4 coats on ,in a satin finish. I'll need to redo or replace the gunnel rod holders, they are sort beat up and now they'll look even worse against the new teak. Hopefully it will be a long time before I need to do that again, not hard, just tedious.
 
The previous owner of my V20 painted all the teak brown. It doesnt look bad and after reading this post I don't know if I want to embark on trying to strip and sand all those trim pieces. I got to say though, Shicks boat looks awesome with those teak deck covers.
 
yeah, my teak was dry and "grainy"I didn't have to sand thru any old finish but I had to remove a good amount of old wood to get down into fresh lumber.
 
phester, glad it came out ok. While I had my rod boxes out and the teak out, I painted them with a bright white roll on paint. I also added a strip of fiberglass tape to the edges because they were cracking. I backed up the wall of the cap behind the opening so whe you reattach the boxes, you have more wall to sink the screws into.
 
phat, if I don't get new boxes ,I will do the same.....I like that additional wood backing idea. what kind of paint /primer did you use?
 
I should have mentioned this before, but I didn't think about it. One thing that will save ALOT of sanding is to pressure wash your teak before you start to sand. It's very difficult to get that old ashy color off, alot of sandiing. I you pressure wash it, that color goes right away. Let it dry for awhile and lightly sand it.

Sorry I'm so behind the ball with that one

Scott
 
It was just white oil based enamel. I painted my deck with Glidden porch paint and that stuff held up really well. The area under my pedastal seats got soft and I had to replace from the cabin back to the fishbox. I used West epoxy and this is why I have to paint the deck. I used the Brightside enamel (Interlux $30 @ qt.) and it last one season. I used the porch paint($15 gal.) and it last 4 seasons. I saw in an earlier post Skool used some garage floor paint and had good results.
 
Finished off some of remaining teak with Ipe instead. There was a strip across the top of the splashwell, above the door to access the batteries, and instead of going straight across like original, I went accross an mitered returns to cap the whole well. On the gunnels, about midships are the two pieces to step on while boarding, originals were in poor shape,didn't want to try and salvage them, just to cracked,brittle and thin. Lastly I needed to stand off the gunnel mounts for the Attwood multi-positional rod holders. I wish the all the brightwork on the boat was all this Ipe wood.This material is like iron,tough to sand and hard on your tools. The rich color and beautiful grain is,in my opinion, nicer than teak. Forgot to mention it weighs a ton, that's probably why it's so tough. Almost ready to go back together, flounder season opens in another two weeks or so
 
This winter, i decided to do a major re-wire project and replace the dash. vic built me a one out of Ipe and you are right, it looks great. It is a little darker than teak and I fnished it with Armada instead of Cetol. How did your rod boxes come out?
 
Iv'e never heard of Ipe wood. Some good stuff Huh. I refinished my gunrack style rod holders, they were not teak. I wonder if it is this Ipe stuff. The color was alot darker with a little red tint. I assumed it was mahogany.
 
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