Suitable helm replacement??

picked up the parts at 10:30
had a new steering cable w/ helm & shift & throttle cable in by 1:30
hardest part was getting the rod box back in.
 
I did not have to move the motor and the old stuff was already out, so it was just running the cables and bolting down the helm. counting removal of old stuff, more like 4-5 hours.
the shift & throttle cable were pretty easy. i have a side mount control box. just unbolt it from the side(3 long bolts), undo the back cover(2 screws), & un-clip cables. on the engine side, remove cowl, undo snaps that hold cables in place and just pop them out. i ran the new cables when i ran the steering cable. it sure shifts like a new one now..
 
phatdaddy said:
I did not have to move the motor and the old stuff was already out, so it was just running the cables and bolting down the helm. counting removal of old stuff, more like 4-5 hours.
the shift & throttle cable were pretty easy. i have a side mount control box. just unbolt it from the side(3 long bolts), undo the back cover(2 screws), & un-clip cables. on the engine side, remove cowl, undo snaps that hold cables in place and just pop them out. i ran the new cables when i ran the steering cable. it sure shifts like a new one now..
Click to expand...

Cool, I'm going to do that after January during down time. I've actually removed my binnacle before to replace the trim switch on the handle. Guess I just didn't pay attention to how the controls were attached.
Before then though, we've got three Saturdays left before gag grouper closure. Hope the weather is cooperative.
 
Do you have to remove the motor to get the steering cable in? I am talking about your standard V20 steplift with no bracket, jackplate, etc.

-Svence
 
csvencer said:
Do you have to remove the motor to get the steering cable in? I am talking about your standard V20 steplift with no bracket, jackplate, etc.

-Svence
Click to expand...

What MJ said, yes you do have to move the motor over enough to get the end of the cable through the tilt tube. Luckily I had a buddy w/ a crane that we used as a lift/support. If I didn't have that option I would probably find something like an exposed beam in a garage, or even a thick tree limb, to tie up a heavy-duty rope or chain to support the weight of the motor (Your Yamaha has a lift point on the top towards the back). You can use your trailer jack to make the fine tuned adjustments after that (ie. jacking the front of the trailer up or down to add or reduce pressure on the tie point.) Before I did mine, I read that some people just used a 2x4 under the skeg to support the weight and then basically manhandled the engine enough to slide it over. Me personally? I would want something tied off to the lift point just in case. Either way you definitely want at least one buddy there to help.
 
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