Spun Prop

Blue_Runner

Blue_Runner

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Went fishing this weekend. Truly a fishing trip with very little catching. Spun the prop about 8 miles out. Was still able to make about 6 knots. Got out the life jackets, called Sea Tow on the telephone to alert the local captain of the situation and that we were still able to make headway. They called every half hour to see how we were. Made it back in fine.

So to the point of the post - I need a new prop. Current prop was Rapture SS 14.25 x 17 RH. I would just purchase one just like it but having a hard time finding it. Saw the Michigan Wheel Apollo but some reviews said it ran like crap. Can someone recommend a good SS prop for my Yamaha 150 outboard?
 
To clarify, I was thinking since I do not have a spare prop it would be a good idea to buy another and also repair this one with a new hub kit.
 
The regular apollo small dioamter isn't that impressive by most accounts from what I have read. The APOLLO large diamter is a MERCURY MIRAGE copy with the vent holes in the hub area. I've ran them on a couple of boats and LOVED them. They bit like nobodys business, and ran out nicely on top, but the mid range bite and cruise was the most impressive part about them. The APOLLO 4 blade is supposed to be good for backwater boats, aor people pulling skiers. Don't count out SOLAS props though. They're made overseas, but so far I like them better than the michigan wheel props I have run. The only downside to them is they tend to need more pitch than there michigan wheel counter parts. I ran a 15 pitch 4 blade michigan wheel prop on my skiff, and it topped out at 5300 RPM's at 34 MPH, but I had a nice cruise. When I smashed it up on the rocks I switched to a 17 pitch SOLAS 4 blade(tried a 15, and it was WAY to small). I now top out at 5700 RPM's and 37 MPH, but the holeshot is twice as solid now. The down side is it doesn't bite as well at cruise, but I actually get better milage out of it than the michigan wheel did. I'm a big fan of US made products, but I gotta hand it to the imported props from SOLAS as they work, and are actually smoother IMHO.

I know my jon boat with my old 35HP JOHNSON liked the 4 balde SOLAS ALOT better than it did any michigan wheel prop I ran.
 
Thanks guys....I found a place online called Deep Blue Yacht Supplies. They have the Solas SS for 229.99 and hub kit for 27.99. Said shipping would be around 15 - 20 bucks. So for Total: $278.63 I can have this shipped today if I order before 3 pm. What ya think?

p.s. I'm new to the drop in hub kit....I don't see how that works? I don't see how that holds?

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/.../9531-143-17?gclid=CP6y9JGJoccCFQuQaQodVjgCUg

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/solas-propellers/rubex-rbx-hub-kits/ProductId/6177
 
Also check iboats.com as they have cheap prices. The drop in hub kits are easy to put in. You have a nylon drive sleeve that goes into the prop, a splined brass sleeve that slides in the front, and the aft drive washer that supports it. Sometimes you need a hammer and a wood drift to seat the nylon sleeve, but thats it.
 
DBY has iBoats beat by $20. iBoats is Price:$297.18

One thing that is concerning, iBoats calls for a RBX-203 hub kit and DBY says RBX-103??? WTF?
 
I use to carry a plastic prop for a spare, used it once was ok to get home but gflexed alot. Was great in a pinch
 
Blue_Runner said:
DBY has iBoats beat by $20. iBoats is Price:$297.18

One thing that is concerning, iBoats calls for a RBX-203 hub kit and DBY says RBX-103??? WTF?
Click to expand...
I just checked there catalog, and either will work. The 203 hub kit is supposed to have improved shift dampening and vibration control over the 103, thats the only difference as they both fit the same engines.
 
This is exactly why I hang around here....:happy:

Thanks guys!!!! Tomorrow is payday so I'll hold off til then. Plus it is almost 3 pm here anyway.
 
hahahaha.....

ok, well, forgot to mention tilt went out at the EXACT same time that the prop spun. What are the odds? Motor now trims, but does not tilt. After further inspection the cap on one of the trim rods was loose. Pretty confident this caused it to leak and no longer tilt. Now the questions I have:

1) Do you think I can just tighten it back down, refill and bleed and be ok?
2) Or do I need to replace the seals?
3) Can I get by with the harbor freight adjustable spanner wrench for $5 or do I need something with more @ss to turn/tighten that cap?

I put a pair of pliers on the cap and I can turn it some.
 
I had a Yamaha that the trim cylinder cap always came lose and same thing, I tigntened a few times same crap, so I took a hammer and punch and after I tightened it the last time, I put the punch on the spaner wrench hole and used a hammer to bang it tighty, Done never had it off again
 
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