She's alive!-sweet smelling 225 2 stroke!

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nepatsfanatic

New member
Finally got all of the rigging together, hooked up gauges, and checked everything out with the new manual. She fired up on first keying which amazed me, had to clear her throat of fogging oil a little and then smoothed right out...What a sound!...

as soon as they pass a law that a man can legally marry a 2-stroke... I'm there!:love:

I think she needs a new impeller though, tried hose at full pressure on muffs, didn't get a hot alarm, had water flow at telltale, no water pressure at gauge, very little warm water at exhaust, removed gauge feed pipe and had barely any flow? I removed both stats and had same results, except obviously the engine never warmed up. Checked the stats in hot water..both good.

Am I on the right track? (new impeller..not the marriage!)

here is a video link to one of the runs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypIb86jiB_M
 
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Glad all is good!!

But the quick way to blow that motor is to rev it like that with no water making it up to the top cylinders!! I know cause I have seen it happen on a good pumping motor, the hose can't supply enough water, a motor should only be run at idle on the muffs!!!

But if you don't know when the pump was changed last I would do that ASAP and see what happens!

Good Luck!
 
I would go through that engine and make CERTAIN EACH AND EVERY cooling hose is free and clear. The FICHTS and even the pre ETECS are known to have issues with mud dobbers and other debris getting inside the cooling system hoses that cool the fuel and EMM and WILL cause THOUSANDS of dollars in damage. The EMM is the brain basically of that engine as EVERYTHING on it is controlled by it, and it is cooled by a small water flow from the cooling system. If it overheats you can plan on about $850 or so for it. And if you plan on running it on the hose, I would invest in a set of the dual feed muffs as they will supply water MUCH better to the pick-ups. Or get a tub or something to put it in to run it in. And avoid revving it as much as possible as it is hard on a 2 strokes bottem end to rev without a load on it. I would do the full water pump kit, replace the t-stats, and inspect all of the cooling system hoses to insure proper flow. Also I would reccomend running XD-50 oil in it since it is a DFI engine and regular TCW-3 2 stroke oil was believed to have led to the demise of MANY of the early FICHTS.
 
grateful for the replies guys and checking out the video, MJ I did get a little possessed for a moment there!, 2-stroke intoxicated!

TF I will go through the entire cooling system and check all passages are clear and replace the impeller. I did ask previous owner for maintenance logs but never sent. It seemed to run very well which made me happy. I am confused by having only a little water flow from the gauge pipe when the stats were out, the whole engine including hoses stayed as cold as ice after about five minutes at idle (no stats). Does that nipple feed right out of the cooling circuit or is it mixing with exhaust gas at that point?:head:

I have the whole off season to get it ready, along with the transom/stringer work I gotta do. I did chainsaw out all of the junk, was thinking Arjay, but I decided to replace with new plywood and am gonna rework the rear end a little, maybe a wave gate or bench seat or something.

Had to rebuild my 2 story porch which is cutting into the fun time! boohoo!
 
Do all the work suggested.

The early fichts that died were mostly the 150 and 175hp models---they ran great at low speed and WOT--but they did not map the computer for fuel at midrange and that is where they melted down.

Good on ya getting it going.
 
I wouldn't run that engine for more than a minute or 2 with no stats in it. And yes without the stats you will have virtually no water pressure in the engine. The pisser is fed directly off the main feed coming from the lower unit, so it will get water quickly. And I'm not sure which engine you have there, but if it has a spring loaded bypass on it I would replace the poppit and spring in it as well. As for the water pressure guage, if it is hooked up down on the starboard side below the powerhead it will get fed cool water as that is also fed right off the main feed supply.
 
Thanks for taking the time TF. She's an 01, new powerhead in 03. My water gauge pipe comes off the rear center, from what I'm guessing is part of the exhaust?. I think I do have the crossover you mentioned, mounted on top of motor, pipes leading to both cylinder banks. I'll clean out and check absolutely everything for flow before next run, install pump OH kit, and check out that crossover unit too. Thanks for your info, now I understand why I only had a little flow with no stats. On the first run (with stats) I let it idle mostly and kept checking the block for temp by hand until it was uncomfortably hot. I didn't get a hot alarm, but I wasn't happy that warm water wasn't appearing in any amount, and showing no water pressure, so I shut it down. Am I correct thinking that water should flow from the ports either side of the peehole when the stats open? If so, I shoulda had a ton with no stats in?

I'd be grateful for any other pointers you have on this baby. Its a lot more complicated than my old merc 115...just had to drown it in gas and oil and press go!
 
Thanks GA, I was glad to just hear her fire to life. I'm gonna go through the whole thing with a fine tooth comb over the winter and before I run it anymore. I'm not one to reinvent the wheel and I'm glad for all the help and knowledge from you guys...I love this site for all the support that's here.
 
At an idle or on the hose espescially water pressure will be low(in the water should be roughly 8 or so I believe and on a hose 1-3). The engine will run warm to hot at idle(about 160-170, but will cool down after about 3K RPM's. I'm pretty sure that engine uses water pressure to bypass the stats at a certain RPM to allow the engine to run cool under load. Also the bypass hose hooks up to a pop off valve, and if it bleeds off pressure it won't allow the stats to be bypassed and can cause overheating.
 
nice one TF, very grateful, I spent a little more time with the manual and it gives a good picture of where the cooling passages run. I'm gonna install the pump kit and new pop off valve and flush everything out before putting her into action.

I see you run a 225, how do you like it?, I'm guessing it's a screamer!, any pics or video?
 
nepatsfanatic said:
nice one TF, very grateful, I spent a little more time with the manual and it gives a good picture of where the cooling passages run. I'm gonna install the pump kit and new pop off valve and flush everything out before putting her into action.

I see you run a 225, how do you like it?, I'm guessing it's a screamer!, any pics or video?
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Yep I've got my 225 mounted on my 20 foot HYDRA-SPORTS and she runs pretty good. Then again mine is ported, bored 40 over, decked heads, and carbon fiber reeds, so she's a bit more potent than a regular 225. My boat weighs almost a 1k pounds more than a V-20, but I can still hit 53 or so with a moderate load and half a tank of fuel and 46-48 FULLY loaded down. I would also put new stats in it while you have it apart. It can't hurt and yopu're already in there, so might as well do em.
 
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