Seacast Transom Repair
- Thread starter drj
- Start date
macojoe
Administrator
Here you go, he has a lot of detail and pictures also!! We expect the same from you also!!
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=8830&page=2
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=8830&page=2
Yes I will document it as best i can =). It is going to take me a while because i am still in school but during the beginning of the summer i hope to have my boat finished =)
Started to Drill Out the Old Wood
Well i started to drill out a little of the old wood in the transom today and it didn't turn out like i had expected. I was using a spade bit and it kept falling between the two pieces of delaminated plywood and getting stuck and it ran down my drill batteries faster then they could charge so I'm going to use a big electric drill now =). Later i went to harbor freight and got auger type bits. they should work better. I'm going to try the new bits and the chainsaw tomorrow if i can. =)
Well i started to drill out a little of the old wood in the transom today and it didn't turn out like i had expected. I was using a spade bit and it kept falling between the two pieces of delaminated plywood and getting stuck and it ran down my drill batteries faster then they could charge so I'm going to use a big electric drill now =). Later i went to harbor freight and got auger type bits. they should work better. I'm going to try the new bits and the chainsaw tomorrow if i can. =)
tsubaki
God
drj, in raising the transom 5", I'm not sure if you will need any extra support or if just the Seacast will be allright. The inner and outer skin everywhere else with the Seacast will do fine.
In my mind you would want some woven material extending to the sides and bottom of the area being filled as you pour, or even a piece of fiberglass board like this. I just don't know.
In my mind you would want some woven material extending to the sides and bottom of the area being filled as you pour, or even a piece of fiberglass board like this. I just don't know.
On the raising the transom question, I would definately not let the fill material stand alone. I would form the inner and outter skins first in the raised area and pour the whole thing at once. The Arjay and Nidacore are strong (I'm sure Seacast is as well), but they are meant to be use as coring material, not structural components by themselves.
Thanks Guys
After reevaluating the transom on my boat and digging out the top 6 inches in the middle of the transom I decided to not use seacast or any other type of transom filler. One reason, as you guys had said the filler would not be as strong unless encased. I did contact seacast and they said it would be fine to raise the transom by pouring the seacast in a form and then covering the bare seacast with three layers of fiberglass cloth. It was good to know that it could be used that way but I have decided i would rather be safe and raise the transom the traditional way using plywood.
Thanks for your input, it did help me decide. =)
I am going to start planning to do my transom the traditional wood way. Do you guys think that it is necessary to used marine plywood or will regular be okay. And i originally thought that using two pieces of 3/4" plywood would be best but upon investigation i can see that currently there are three layers of plywood in the transom. I have decided to take the outside transom skin off to do the transom for two reasons. One is there was a professional transom job done recently before i purchased the boat and they reattached the stringed to the inside skin and that is still in great shape.The second reason i think that i am going to cut off the outside is that the outside skin already has a lot of holes and problems that need to be fixed because the previous owner tried to do his own transom job and cut the center down 5 inches causing the rot. =(
After reevaluating the transom on my boat and digging out the top 6 inches in the middle of the transom I decided to not use seacast or any other type of transom filler. One reason, as you guys had said the filler would not be as strong unless encased. I did contact seacast and they said it would be fine to raise the transom by pouring the seacast in a form and then covering the bare seacast with three layers of fiberglass cloth. It was good to know that it could be used that way but I have decided i would rather be safe and raise the transom the traditional way using plywood.
Thanks for your input, it did help me decide. =)
I am going to start planning to do my transom the traditional wood way. Do you guys think that it is necessary to used marine plywood or will regular be okay. And i originally thought that using two pieces of 3/4" plywood would be best but upon investigation i can see that currently there are three layers of plywood in the transom. I have decided to take the outside transom skin off to do the transom for two reasons. One is there was a professional transom job done recently before i purchased the boat and they reattached the stringed to the inside skin and that is still in great shape.The second reason i think that i am going to cut off the outside is that the outside skin already has a lot of holes and problems that need to be fixed because the previous owner tried to do his own transom job and cut the center down 5 inches causing the rot. =(
tsubaki
God
Found this and maybe more description is needed.
07-18-2007, 12:37 AM
drj
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 15
Transom help On a v20 center console
Can Someone Please give me some suggestions or ideas of how to do a fiberglass transom repair and strengthened. Here is the problem. The transom was replaced professionally and he did a good job except he left space between the new wood and the old fiberglass. I know how to handle that just grind and re glass the corners of the motor well. From there I'm stuck. The last owner did a botch fiberglass job to shorten the transom for a 20 inch motor. he did not glass the top of the wood good after he cut it but there there appears to be no problem. the problem is where the bolt holes are. Water got in fro the lack of silicone on the bolts and rotted a 3 inch radius around each hole. Can someone please tell me how i can tie in a piece on the top to make it a 20 inch transom again and fix the holes. The transom is not in horrible condition I took an old Johnson 120 off of it and will replace it with a 200 this is not overrated for the boat but I want to make sure with a bigger motor that I do not have any problems.
Please help
thanks
**********************
drj, are the old repairs that big of a mess or you think redoing the same way will be easier?
drj
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 15
Can Someone Please give me some suggestions or ideas of how to do a fiberglass transom repair and strengthened. Here is the problem. The transom was replaced professionally and he did a good job except he left space between the new wood and the old fiberglass. I know how to handle that just grind and re glass the corners of the motor well. From there I'm stuck. The last owner did a botch fiberglass job to shorten the transom for a 20 inch motor. he did not glass the top of the wood good after he cut it but there there appears to be no problem. the problem is where the bolt holes are. Water got in fro the lack of silicone on the bolts and rotted a 3 inch radius around each hole. Can someone please tell me how i can tie in a piece on the top to make it a 20 inch transom again and fix the holes. The transom is not in horrible condition I took an old Johnson 120 off of it and will replace it with a 200 this is not overrated for the boat but I want to make sure with a bigger motor that I do not have any problems.
Please help
thanks
**********************
drj, are the old repairs that big of a mess or you think redoing the same way will be easier?
07-18-2007, 12:37 AM
drj
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 15
Transom help On a v20 center console
Can Someone Please give me some suggestions or ideas of how to do a fiberglass transom repair and strengthened. Here is the problem. The transom was replaced professionally and he did a good job except he left space between the new wood and the old fiberglass. I know how to handle that just grind and re glass the corners of the motor well. From there I'm stuck. The last owner did a botch fiberglass job to shorten the transom for a 20 inch motor. he did not glass the top of the wood good after he cut it but there there appears to be no problem. the problem is where the bolt holes are. Water got in fro the lack of silicone on the bolts and rotted a 3 inch radius around each hole. Can someone please tell me how i can tie in a piece on the top to make it a 20 inch transom again and fix the holes. The transom is not in horrible condition I took an old Johnson 120 off of it and will replace it with a 200 this is not overrated for the boat but I want to make sure with a bigger motor that I do not have any problems.
Please help
thanks
**********************
drj, are the old repairs that big of a mess or you think redoing the same way will be easier?
Believe it or not that is the same transom job that I was talking about in that old thread that you found. I had to get my boat out of my dad's shop because he had to bring his stuff in to work on so I haven't touched the boat since then. =(
I'm not sure I understand what your asking.
Before I bought the boat the transom was redone by a professional fiberglass shop. Then the guy I bought the boat from notched it down 5 inches and didn't put the cap back on where he notched it which allowed water to get in just in the center of the transom. I was going to did the whole thing out and re=do it with seacast until I saw yours and mauryc's replies which made me think about raising it with the seacast and how it would not have as much support. So now I am back to square 1 and I think I am going to redo it with wood. I was reading some threads on here and I saw a link to this other site. This looks about what I was thinking to do now. I am not 100% set on it though. http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745
tsubaki- I hope i answered what you were asking but if not just let me know.
tsubaki
God
I remember the Mako thread, that transom was straight and not tapered like (most of) the V's. Correct me if I'm wrong but the piecing of the transom with wood and cutting the outer skin seems a lot more work and expense than digging and pouring.
Try to post some pictures of this project and/or maybe someone else has better ideas than me.
Try to post some pictures of this project and/or maybe someone else has better ideas than me.
Okay I am going to attempt to post some pictures that I have. Well I thought the seacast would have been easier but when I started to take the wood out I realized the wood was in much better shape then I thought and i calculated the seacast to cost at least 650 for 15 gallons plus whatever else needed.
here is a link to the pictures I'm not sure how to post them directly.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drjmoo1/BoatTransom
the rest of the boat is completely sanded and I am in the process of repairing the cracks and things but I didn't sand the transom area because I didn't know what to do with it yet.
One picture has red lines where I was thinking about sectioning in the new piece.
Thanks for all your ideas. let me know what you think of the pics.
here is a link to the pictures I'm not sure how to post them directly.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drjmoo1/BoatTransom
the rest of the boat is completely sanded and I am in the process of repairing the cracks and things but I didn't sand the transom area because I didn't know what to do with it yet.
One picture has red lines where I was thinking about sectioning in the new piece.
Thanks for all your ideas. let me know what you think of the pics.
I do see your point and I am open to any ideas and am not dead set on anything because I want to make sure it is going to hold up. I did have an outboard break off of an inflatable boat transom once and it wasn't a fun experience. I can't imagine trying to recover a 200hp off the bottom of the river. I did see this picture in one of the galleries and this is where I got the 3 piece transom idea. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album109/scan0001.sized.jpg
THEFERMANATOR
God
SEACAST is expensive, that is why the one member recently went with ARJAY instead. I know it was ALOT less money(about 1/2 as much I believe). Go rent you a chainsaw and get the wood out the easy way. And the pic that TSUBAKI posted would not be removing enough glass to get the old wood out of there IMHO.