Saw these in the Summit store online

aussie

aussie

Senior Member
Direct_Lube_Solid_Lifter.jpg
 
Has anyone used these or know someone who has -they seem a good idea but how does it affect oil pressure and does it help cam lobe wear ?
 
What are those? Rhoades variable duration lifters? If so, they work. I have used them more than once, the only thing I didnt like about them, is they used to bleed way down, and give me a valve tap on occasion. Dont know if that has been solved or not with them, but wouldnt be surprised if that has been rectified.
 
I've used them, didn't care for them. If I needed a cam to make more vacuum for the specs, I'd go solid instead of the Rhodes
 
spareparts said:
Rhodes lifters?
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The picture is of a set of HOWARDS direct lube solid lifters. Notice the small hole in the lifter face, it is designed to run oil pressure at the contact face between the lifter and camshaft for better oiling. With todays modern oils with low zinc and phosfourous levels, it can't hurt to have extra oil available to prevent lobe wear. Personally I would just use a conventional lifter with a oil with high zinc and phosfourous levels.
 
spareparts said:
rotella!
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Since 2011 when diesels started using DEF they reduced the ZINC and phosfourous levels in Rotells as well. It is alot higher than gas oil is, but still nothing like ROTELLA was in 06. Pre emissions Rotella was around 1300 PPM of ZINC, now it's around 800 The minumum for a flat tappet cam during break in is 1100 or so, and around 900 for regular oil changes(unless you have a modern hardened flat tappet cam, and then they say a properly broke in cam will live an OK life at 750). To put it in perspective, I believe modern S rated oils are around 300-450 PPM of ZINC. VALVOLINE XR racing oils are still around 1250-1300 as well as a few other performance oils.

DISCLAIMER: My numbers may be off as it has been awhile since I researched oil formulation changes. And this is for US based products, international markets can still have higher levels of ZINC and PHOSFOUROUS since they don't have our messed up emission regs and systems.
 
I was told to use the api cj-5 rotella it is suposed to be the high zinc. I Dont know for sure, I'll call their customer service next week, they have an excellent tech line
 
im asking about solid lifters with the oil hole in the bottom as I did read in the big banger forum that the cams do wear when you regrind them mainly because of not enough zinc in the oil if you want to change the subject to oils at least let me start a thread lol
 
All I have read is debate over the hole in the lifter facing helping or hurting. COMP CAMS makes a lifter design that gets more oil to the lifter without drilling the hole in the lifter face. it has a groove cut in the side to channel oil down from the galley to the lifter. This way you keep a solid face, but the channel will dump oil down.
 
I think pretty much any cam will work w rollers..... just can't use a roller specific cam w non roller lifters...

Aren't you having a cam reground... could you not specify that it be a roller cam?
 
smokeonthewater said:
I think pretty much any cam will work w rollers..... just can't use a roller specific cam w non roller lifters...

Aren't you having a cam reground... could you not specify that it be a roller cam?
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Don't work that way. Roller cams have a COMPLETELY different grind profile to them than a flat tappet cam has. The contours of a flat tappet cam with roller lifters wouldn't last long, not to mention roller cams are made of billet steel whereas flat tappets are cast. I'm sure Aussie could get a custom grind done, but it would cost ALOT of money to do so. I know COMP has blanks that can be custom ground to most anything, but the cost would be up close to a grand US probably for a one off like a 3.7L.
 
OOPS! I completely forgot about WHY they don't work that way!

the flat tappet cam lobes are ground at an angle so they rotate the lifters.... Yeah ur right of course can't use rollers or they'd be riding on just the edge of the wheel.... sorry for any confusion.
 
Hey Aussie, has any one laid that 3.7 cam beside a 460 cam? Wonder if you could run a 460 cam on only use half the lobes? You'd have to bore the end of the cam to accept the shaft for the water pump though.
 
spareparts said:
Hey Aussie, has any one laid that 3.7 cam beside a 460 cam? Wonder if you could run a 460 cam on only use half the lobes? You'd have to bore the end of the cam to accept the shaft for the water pump though.
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i look at that the distrubtor gear would be a problem so i think that's out
 
I guess a lot of you guys are thinking why am i wasting my time and money on a small 3.7 when i can drop a V8 in my V and have all the power i want here are a few reasons why i haven't gone that way

( 1 ) prices for a S/H V8 boat engine are too expensive here

( 2 ) don't wont the extra weight

Reasons why i stuck with the 3.7

( 1 ) the light weight of the engine and even more with the alloy head

( 2 ) engine parts being cheap because same as a 460

( 3 ) fuel efficient

( 4 ) Most of all being a unique engine having a smaller engine making
good power is more rewarding than dropping a V8 in it when i do go
out for a fish and my boat is more fuel efficient than my mates boats
its a fishing boat and will be well balanced with the 3.7

:money:
 
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