Repowering

garagenc

garagenc

God
I'm repowering my 91 V-20 I/O. I have the motor out and the upper portion of the 290 outdrive off, trim tabs off. I'm replacing the outdrive water hose, helmet bushing (has anyone replaced that and if so tell me how they did it). Would anyone like me to take pics and provide status on work? I've already done some work:

I had a rotten port aft stringer (mtr mount) so I cut the top of the gel coat out and (left sides) and dug out the rotten wood. I poured resin and laid 4 layers of glass on the remaining good wood and then placed a board (fir) insert on top of the glass and then poured resin and stuffed glass on each side and end and then laid glass on top until it was even with the existing sides of glass. I laid a trash bag on top and cut a board that was the same length and width as the insert and set that and a 30lb weight on it and left it for 3 days. I didn't use as much hardner as reccomended so it wouldn't hard to fast and get brittle.

I just have to mix up some white gelcoat and pour on top to match and that should finish that project.

If anyone would like pics and job status let me know and I'll start posting.
 
garagenc said:
I'm repowering my 91 V-20 I/O. I have the motor out and the upper portion of the 290 outdrive off, trim tabs off. I'm replacing the outdrive water hose, helmet bushing (has anyone replaced that and if so tell me how they did it). Would anyone like me to take pics and provide status on work? I've already done some work:

I had a rotten port aft stringer (mtr mount) so I cut the top of the gel coat out and (left sides) and dug out the rotten wood. I poured resin and laid 4 layers of glass on the remaining good wood and then placed a board (fir) insert on top of the glass and then poured resin and stuffed glass on each side and end and then laid glass on top until it was even with the existing sides of glass. I laid a trash bag on top and cut a board that was the same length and width as the insert and set that and a 30lb weight on it and left it for 3 days. I didn't use as much hardner as reccomended so it wouldn't hard to fast and get brittle.

I just have to mix up some white gelcoat and pour on top to match and that should finish that project.

If anyone would like pics and job status let me know and I'll start posting.
Click to expand...




Where's them pics, garagenc??... ;D ...
 
Had to learn how to dwnld pics, so lets try them out.


this is the open hole that makes us I/O owners feel sick in our stomach because we've lost something.


port stringer that had rot but now replaced, just need to add the white gelcoat



shot of the transome after everything has been removed.


dowel plug installed where all the transducer lines exited. Soon to be filled with glass and resin.


http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/garagenc/Boat repairs/?action=view&current=DSC00029.jpg

steering/helmut area prior to upr&lwr bushings remvd.


DSC00028.jpg

helmut rmvd and lower bushing left in place to show rmvl



helmut rmvd


raw water vlv soon to be remvd and new home of thru hull transducer.


dash rmvd during rmvl of old fishfinder and prior to new fishfinder.


I'm the proud new papa of this furuno LS6100



cutting board on dash, another to be installed so gps and fishfinder have a place to sit.

Other photos to be installed later as soon as other work is accomplished.
 
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Nice pics. There are alot of bad places for 'ducers on these boats and only few good ones. Lots of lifting strakes limit our choices. There are a couple strakes approx 10" off centerline that end about midships that will cause transducer problems. I'm not sure where your thru-hull is, but keep that in mind. Are you installing the newish tilted element from Airmar? If so let me know how it works because I'd love to put one in, just nervous about finding the best spot.

Airslot
 
I haven't exactly measured where the hole is, but I'll measure and let you know. I think it is only about 6-10" off centerline. That open drain you see to the left in that pic is the centerline drain.

It sounds as if you've had some or your friends have tried this already with little success.

I was planning on buying the fairing block and then cutting to fit hull, I was wondering if I should install with curvature of the hull or make it level to a horizontial line (ground).


Let me know what experience you already have so I won't make the same mistake.

thanks
 
Great pics and a LOT of work!!... ;) ...


...about that thru-hull...keep us posted on that...looks really interesting... 8) ...my only concern is yer gonna install it over a repair, if I understand right...I've never done one, but I hope that doesn't create problems for you... :) ...CB has done 'em w / much success...I think the ''ducer'' has to shoot straight down ...


...Furuno looks like a really NICE unit 8) ...
 
Couple things to ponder. Generally you can't put a thru-hull too close to engine. Disturbs water flow for cooling and prop. If you go with the new tilted element through hull you might pull it off because it only projects like 3/8" below hull. If your talking a bigger thru-hull w/ fairing block, no way that close to engine. At this point we still need to consider the strakes in the hull. I know that where I have my ducer it works, but could work better. I think mine is too close to one of the "flats" or steps.

What model 'ducer would you like to use with that Furuno 600L? I have the same sounder using the P-66 transom mount. I also have the P-79 mounted in the hull, but it doesn't work all that well.

Airslot
 
I'm planning on using the 525T-BSD ducer. This hole sits approx 6"-8" fwd of the fwd end of the motor. I don't think this will cause a problem for water flow.

But it sounds like you have more exp with this than me. I haven't seen the tilted one you described.
 
It's not what I would use, but it will work. Google Furuno B60-20 That's the new tilted element 'ducer that has become their best seller. I want to do one this spring but I can't committ to where to drill the hole. This will give you a much cleaner install. The ducer is about $65 more, but no fairing block and very little labor to install.

Airslot
 
were are you mounting the new sounder?
Not much dash room on these boats!
Thats got to be my one thing I hate! Of coarse I have a 1975 and the 70's have the least room of any!

Nice work your doing there!! Take many pic!! we can add to the how to section, on how to remove motor or what ever.

Can't help with thur hull, I have a transom mount on a Garmin and it works great! But sometimes I do lose reading at high speed.
But while jigging I watch my line on the sounder!
 
Mac

DSC00034.jpg


I'm mounting the furuno on that white board with the elect cable coming up thru. I'm installing another board next to it to cover where the old fish finder was and install the gps. They both will fit there.
 
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AIR

I goggled furuno and searched for b60-20, it didn't bring it up, said no files matching that part #.

Here's what I did out today; Wellcraft that existing hole I have is about the only place to put it and they say is the best place for my hull.

AIRMAR makes almost all the transducers for everybody (according to AIRMAR). They sell the ducer I'm looking at and it's cheaper, I can get that one with temp and high speed fairing block for 160.

I called and asked furuno about a tilted ducer and they said they didn't know of any, but that was before you posted the number, so I didn't have any # to ask them about. If it is available in dual frequency and has temp then I'm game.

What one would you buy instead of the one I'm looking at?

I found a flush mounted type but according to furuno they don't make a flush mount with temp.
 
Google this as one phrase:

Furuno b60-20

also see:

Furuno b60-12

I think its a much better unit for our boats. It has depth, temp, and is dual frequency. Depending how close the the keel it is you may need the "-12". If you are onto the main deadride 20* part, then the -20 would be perfect.

Check it out.

Airslot
 
I called Airmar and they carry both units you listed. I've found the price to be 198-214 depending on who has them and they come with the cable coupling depending on what unit u have.

I'm still determining where to put and what unit to buy, I'm not sure which unit 12dg or 20dg. I'm not sure if you go 20 it may be too much and 12 may be not enough but may work better than being over degreed.
 
That one should be easy. The V-20 has 20* deadrise. Once you get 6" or so from the keel, all the way out it's 20*, except for the strakes.

I'm definately looking to install the B60-20, I'm just trying to determine which flat spot will povide best performance.

Airslot
 
According to the fellow at wellcraft he said the area from the aft bilge bhd to the transome would be fine. I haven't looked to see if this bhd is in the same place for boats with outbds.

I think I'm going to buy the b60-20 and install it in my hole where the washdown hole already is.

The b60-20 also comes with temp, which is what I need.

If you want I can measure my hole.
 
My concern is that you were trying to use a current hole, and that hole may not be in the ideal place. The first strake up from the bow only runs about half way back. If your behind that I think you may have interference problems.

Airslot
 
OK guys, It got warm enough for me to work on my boat, I plugged 2 holes on transome where the old ducer lines and speedometer cables came thru.
1) Mixed up some gel-coat (hopefully I got the tint right) plugged some of those holes. When they dry I'll be able to tell if color is right. I mixed up a qt so all I have to do is mix catalyst and go.
2) Finished putting the last layer of resin on the new stringer I installed so it would be level with one on other side.
3) Installed new fish finder bracket on dash.

I'll post pics as I get some other things done.
 
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