THEFERMANATOR
God
Hey TSUBAKI, were you running it without the front plastic airbox portion? I see in your pics it isn't on there and that WILL cause one of them to burn itself up in a HURRY!
repower
- Thread starter awthacker
- Start date
awthacker
Junior Member
Thanks for all the info Tsubaki. That looks damn clean for an '84, but I'm gonna pass on this one. I've put alot of work into the boat and am looking to get alot of use out of it this year. Since I don't know too much about engines, I'm looking for something relatively worry-free. Good luck getting rid of it... looks like a couple bites here already.
awthacker
Junior Member
You must be typing on your smartphone, cause that was just hard to read. Think I got the jist of the joke, though. But seriously, I think you can see the difference between a motor that is producing metallic build-up on one of the plugs vs. one that checks out good. I know the boat is gonna cost me lots of money over time. I just scrapped a motor that I thought was excessively corroded, showed signs of having been overheated, and had no trim/tilt assembly. If I wanted a "trouble" motor, I would've just slapped a t/t on it and headed out. I don't mind spending a few thousand to get something "relatively" reliable. Kinda looking at that 175HP Evinrude in Jupiter that Ferm is endorsing. May not be too different than the one you picked up because the guy "thought it may break soon".
THEFERMANATOR
God
You have to learn to read "WINDTALKER", it is an aquired talent. MJ is the only known individual that can type in the mistic "WINDTALKER" language so we are privilaged enough to have him here. As for the engine, ANY engine you get will have problems at some point in time. Most get to warm and fuzzy inside when they hear that they have a warranty and think of it as a guarantee it won't let you down which ios not the case. I can understand you not wanting an engine with problems already, but there is no guarantee that the next clean engine you get won't do the same thing right away. The best thing you can do is to find a good engine and disable the oil injection if it is an OMC or MERC(provided it's an old school 2 stroke, DFI's CANNOT have the oil injection removed) and mix your own oil in the fuel. That is about as much of a guarantee that you can get that it will last for you(that and decarb it often).
RWilson2526
God
I'm glad you guys got the "windtalkin'" because I have no idea what the hell that means.
awthacker
Junior Member
I think then, that I'm picking up on this WINDTALKING. "k" replaces "ff" and always add a "1" after an exclamation point.
The 115hp Johnson on my old boat had the VRO disable, so I figure that's what I'd do with the next, if applicable. Mostly because I don't want to find a place for an oil resorvoir.
spareparts
God
Windtalking is an anchent Navaho dialect thats was used when the "braves" were discusing the issues they were having with their canoes. For fear of letting their "Squaws' know just how much they spent on their canoes or just how many problems they were having with them, they invented a secret language to discuss their issues with out the other half knowing what was being said(or spent). We have been taught this ancient language by our feerless leader, Chief Sittingbullsh**, other wise known as MJ. Hang around long enough and you'll be able to pick it up with the best of us.
awthacker
Junior Member
Transom is all ready for the new power (well, after a light sand and one more coat of paint). I decided not to raise the transom because it was structurally sound. I also decided against having a local shop build a new engine. Mostly because I opted for the 1995 175 HP Evinrude Invader that I linked to on a previous post. At $2000, the price was right and I've got my fingers crossed that it works out well. It is being delivered in person and so far I'm only out $500. Should be delivered Thursday and I hope to have it installed by the end of the weekend.
Attachments
awthacker
Junior Member
1995 175hp Invader
Received the engine today. $2,000 via ebay plus $250 shipping. Was able to use the forklift at work to lift it while we mounted it. So far, it's bolted in place, but not rigged at all. Temporarily powered it up to lift the tilt for towing. That worked... so far, so good. Still have my fingers crossed that it'll fire up and run smooth sometime tomorrow afternoon.
Received the engine today. $2,000 via ebay plus $250 shipping. Was able to use the forklift at work to lift it while we mounted it. So far, it's bolted in place, but not rigged at all. Temporarily powered it up to lift the tilt for towing. That worked... so far, so good. Still have my fingers crossed that it'll fire up and run smooth sometime tomorrow afternoon.
Attachments
reelapeelin
God
Man, That looks nice...great work on the transom!!...keep us posted on the wet test!!...and keep the pics COMIN!!...
awthacker
Junior Member
Thanks Reel. But the engine didn't test too well on the hose today. This is a 1994 Evinrude V6 VRO. The VRO has not been disabled, as far as I can tell. I have no idea what the VRO pump looks like or where it is located, but it must have some type of resorvoir because this thing is running super rich and dripping massive amounts of black oil. So I've only run it for maybe 10 minutes. I thought that since there's no oil supply hooked to the engine, the VRO would essentially be disabled and I could run out any remaining oil. I honestly believe I watched 1/2 quart of oil ooze out of the exhaust. Where's all this oil coming from and does anyone know how to disbale the VRO pump?
reelapeelin
God
I never have disconnected one myself...all I know is, DO IT!!...don't crank it again til you got this resolved...sounds like dancin' on the edge from here...Spare, Ferm or Skools hopefully will come along and tell ya how to do it RIGHT!!...
And then go get you one of these...
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10106&subdeptNum=10434&classNum=10442
Makes Oil/Gas Mixin' EASY!!...Wally Market might have 'em, too...
Last edited:
Destroyer
God
Allow me to state the obvious.. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES run that engine without some kind of oil in the gas. If you disable the VRO then you need to run premix. But running without oil, even for a real short time, is the surest, quickest way to turn that engine into a pile of smoking scrap.
Your V looks awesome, As for the VRO disconnect you need to cut the line about 3 inches down from the pump "oil in" as shown and plug it with a bolt and a hose clamp, Trace the wires from the pump to the harness and disconnect it. If the low oil warning is active you need to disconnect the sender and tape up all wires on mine its was a tan color.
