Repower Prop question

Last year I had called it quits with my old 120 Johnson and found a smoking good deal on a 99 175 carbed Johnson, hooked everything up and she runs great, after sorting out optimal mounting height I'm ready to work on the propeller.
The current prop does okay, runs WOT at normal load at 5100...but it's unmarked, is pretty banged up(aluminum) and I'd like to start fresh.
Any suggestions as far as prop size and pitch?

Hoping someone here might have a similar v6 looper on their V and can tell me what they've been happy with just to use as a starting point.

Or if anyone knows a shop in NJ that can measure my prop that would be helpful as well!!

Thanks!
 
I'd think a 17 or 19 would be a good place to start. A lot depends on the dia of the wheel as well as the rake, cupping, material, number of blades, etc. :head:
 
Great thanks Destroyer! I was thinking similar pitch.
I wish there was someone around here that would let me play with a few different props but I might have to buy a used prop(probably aluminum) in both pitches(17&19) and then see what works best and then get a stainless steel in the preferable pitch and hope it doesn't mess up my calculations too much haha
 
I'm in Ramsey, the boat will be in Brick next week(hopefully) but if you'd be willing, that would be a real help I can always come to you, if it's something you'd really consider, PM me and hopefully we can work something out
Thanks!
 
Let me check stock, but assuming you come down 287 on your way to Brick if you stop off the Montville exit I'm pretty sure I can meet you with a few different loaners for you to try.
 
17 pitch stainless 3 blade in around a 13 1/2" diameter would be my reccomendation. If you step up to a 15" prop, drop down to a 15 pitch. That's a lower rpm looper, iirc wot should be 5000-5500 on it(or 5600 since it's a 175hp). I think a 19 pitch is going to be too much pitch for it. Another prop I would seriously look at would be the michigan wheel stainless 4 blade prop in a 16 pitch. They hook up very well with very low prop slippage, plane quickly, and bite hard at cruise to increase cruising speeds. Solas also makes some good cheap props. Stainless or aluminum is a choice of your budget and how you boat. If you boat where there is a good chance of you hitting something, I reccomend aluminum. It's cheaper to carry a spare prop than it is to bend a prop shaft. If you boat in open waters and can afford, I would strongly reccomend stainless.
 
Thanks Ferminator, I'm just wondering if you meant 14.5" diameter, I'm having a hard time finding any 13.5" props for this motor, I know that's what I had on my old looper but it was a 13 spline.
I actually got a 4 blade solas for my last motor and I really liked it, I know I'm going to get one for this motor but I want to get a nice 3 blade stainless first I think.
I do run barnegat Bay so I'll scrape Sand or much every once in awhile but I almost feel I'd be better off with stainless in that regards... Instead of buggering up aluminum the stainless should be fine, it's just drift wood and any hard ground I'd really have to watch out for with a stainless prop... Right? Or will dragging a stainless through the mud be enough to hurt the gear case?

Destroyer I'll probably take the boat down at an odd ball time this week but maybe this upcoming weekend I could work something out with you and the props to test
 
Yes, a 14-14.5" diameter. I was thinking higher pitches where diameter goes down. 17 is the generally accepted starting pitch for a 150-175 hp 2 stroke from those that run them on these hulls. Stainless does good in silty muddy water where aluminum where get eroded and worn away in no time. If you boat where you have a good chance of hitting rocks, oysters, or logs, then I reccomend aluminum. I know some say to run a stainless because the prop will hold up, but I've seen WAY too many propshafts bent or gear cases with holes in them from hitti,g things with stainless props to ever reccomend it. I tell people it's your money, but a $100 to buy a new aluminum prop is alot cheaper than a used $350 or more gearcase. And the prop you can change on the water, the gear case could require a tow in.
 
So I found that the PO must have painted my original prop pretty heavy and it covered all the stamped numbers, I found where they were to figure out the prop and it is an OMC 763471. 15*15 aluminum propeller.
So I bought a replacement Solas 4 blade(new) and a stainless 3 blade solas(used)
Neither of them fit. It seems as if my original prop has a significantly longer hub. The splines on the 2 new props engage but they are about 2 inches from contacting the thrust washer (at the bullet) before the splines bottom out.
I'm imagining this is incorrect but no matter how much research I do, I don't find anything that a long hub prop exists for this motor and I can't imagine I need a thrust washer that's almost 3" thick.
Any ideas? I'm really at a loss here
 
Since the old prop did fit those numbers HAVE to be correct. I hate to suggest this, but did you contact OMC with those numbers and see if they have one in stock? And if not, do they have a replacement that will fit your hub. If there's an OMC replacement # than it should fit your hub. Then you can transpose that number to a Solas or Michigan Wheel or whatever. (And I'd see about returning that 4 blade prop [the new one] to whoever you bought it from, explaining that it doesn't fit and that they sent you the wrong prop.) You're probably stuck with the 3 blade since it's a used prop.
 
I would be checking the splines of your prop shaft for damage. The prop must slide all the way forward to the thrust washer and on far enough so that the prop slides just inside the gear case to seal exhaust gasses. Some props do use a different washer arrangement to hold them on, but to my knowledge OMC only used 1 style prop for the V6 gear case(there was a thrust washer change in 91, but this didn't effect the prop).
 
Back
Top