Quick Rod Box Fix

R

randlemanboater

God
The port rod box on my V was loose at the bottom, the plastic had broken where the screws held it. It vibrated and shook and was generally no good.

Last week when I went to the coast for a couple of days I installed my "new" depthfinder. I had to take out the port rod box to run the wires. I was about to slide the box back into the hole and try to figure a way to reinforce the box when the light came on.

I put the outer edge of the box that used to be behind the gunwale on the outside and just put the teak trim right on top of it.

I cut the front edge so that the box could slide forward inside the gunwale as before.

So far, it works good, very sturdy.

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Mines on the outside all the way around. Your's is outside on three sides, but tucked inside on the front? Am I reading that right? Interesting - did you cut out slots in the box's outer flange to 'bend' it in there? Sounds like it would be more solid.
 
WiseGuy said:
Mines on the outside all the way around.  Your's is outside on three sides, but tucked inside on the front?  Am I reading that right?  Interesting - did you cut out slots in the box's outer flange to 'bend' it in there?  Sounds like it would be more solid.
Click to expand...

That is correct sir. I just cut the lip right at where the forward edge of the hole in the side is, then slid that part inside.

It is much more sturdy.


HAMMER,

Cleaning the teak is on the list.
 
randlemanboater said:
That is correct sir. I just cut the lip right at where the forward edge of the hole in the side is, then slid that part inside.

It is much more sturdy.
Click to expand...




Sounds like it would almost hold itself in that way ;) ... good job!! 8) ...
 
I backed my rod box flange with lumber on the back side to have something solid to screw into.  I also installed the starboard rod box moldings that LESTERUS (member) gave me.  Thanks Carlos.  I will post more pictures this weekend.  I also installed the coaming cushions but I won't have any pics of the cushions till this weekend.

rodbox.jpg
 
I have my rod boxes out of the V to refinish the teak and mainly to repair the fiberglass rod box's. Port side rod box had some serious cracking and generally looked bad. I am using the same mounting as Mulv because I needed to repair and reinforce the box edges. Repairing the box edges means I can't mount the boxes on the front of the rod box cutout instead of the back as Wellcraft did. The four rod box mounting points and edges are backed with 1/4" oak strips bonded to 3/4" cedar and at the 4 mounting points I am using brass screw-in inserts in the oak. The inserts take a 3/16" stainless steel screw to hold the boxes to the boat. I am also reinforcing the boxes with fiberglass and epoxy resin. I will post pictures of the process I am using and the final results when completed.

Geek
 
HEY MULV:

I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR OVER A YEAR FOR YOU TO POST PICS OF THE TRIMMING INSTALLED, I'M GLAD FOR THE WAY IT LOOKS, I LOVE THE WAY IT LOOKS, I MISS THEM!!.

LESTERUS
 
I THOUGTH OF PUTTING THE CUSHIONS ON THE SIDE, SINCE MY FATHER DOES ULPHOSTERY IT WOULD.NT COST ME MUCH, BUT IT WILL BE ANOTHER MAINTENANCE ITEM, SO I BOUGHT PROFESSIONAL KNEE PADS AT HOME DEPOT AND WEAR THEM WHEN I GO FISHING.

LESTERUS
 
Hey Mulv, where did you get your coaming pads (or bolsters--whatever they are called)? How are they attached to the gunwales? I really like them.
 
I saw a pair on Ebay made by Garelick for $86.99 for 36" and $87.99 for 48". They attach with stainless steel clips of some sort. They are not nearly as nice looking as yours. I then found the exact same pair for $49.98 (36") and $59.98 (48") on BoatersWorld.com. I just may pick up the pair from BoatersWorld. Mulv, I am curious--are yours the 36" or the 48"?
 
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