charlie_the_tuna
God
hey nothing, where are you on long island? i'm in long beach.
Picked up today
- Thread starter NOTHING ELSE MATTERS
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Junior Member
Yeah, i did the moisture meter thing and also the knife point thing on all holes, wood is dry and strong everywhere, the transom is really solid.
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Junior Member
Thanks, i'm trying to work a little everyday on the boat, but i'm really bussy with work and don't have a lot time.
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Junior Member
Queens and Greenport. I got this boat so i can explore the south side, my other boat is in Southold.
Boat looks great
I also picked up a 1989 v and the transom looks likethat also,,, at first i was worried but i have beat on it and touged up and down on the motor and see no movement on the glass ..My question ,,is the fiberglass supposed to be seperated there on the transom,, is that where the mold was....Thanks
I also picked up a 1989 v and the transom looks likethat also,,, at first i was worried but i have beat on it and touged up and down on the motor and see no movement on the glass ..My question ,,is the fiberglass supposed to be seperated there on the transom,, is that where the mold was....Thanks
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Junior Member
Yes, this is where the cap(top section of the boat) meets the hull. Wellcraft had some kind of putty in between, then a plastic cap to look nice. This is the number one cuase of water intrusion(thank god my transom looks and feels solid), so what i did was removed tha putty, filled with resin and chopped glass, smoothed with epoxy filler(west system 407), then apply glass. I just finished doing that actually. I will post some pics later.
WOW,,, of all places to have a gap ,that has got to be the worse place ..Like i said earler I just got the boat and was suprise when i pulled back the medal cap to see the gap ..I hit the transom all around and its solid however i am going to drill a few very small holes to check for water (should that be done from the inside or outside or does it not mater ) ,,i read that you guys also use a meter where do you get them from...
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Junior Member
You don't have to drill more holes if you have a transducer installed, just remove it with a hand screwdriver and inspect the screws for water marks/rust and also see if you have any water coming out, then you have the bolts from the swim platform, remove those also(the ones under the water line). The meter i bought it from a woodworking magazine,i think it was 100 or 150 bucks, i use it at work a lot to check the wood we getting.
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Junior Member
I've been busy trying to finish this boat, so the last couple of days i removed and cleaned the gas tank in and out and also getting new hoses and fittings.
Also had to fix the gas tank hatch, it felt soft when stepping on it, so i remove the core material and to my surprise the core was honeycomp style PAPER
, never seen that before and was soaked in water(sorry no picture of that) so removed it and epoxied a 3/4 plywood secured with epoxy resin and filler, then epoxied the underside of it, looks pretty strong now.
Also finished with a layer of cloth the transom gap.
Starts to look good.
I
Also had to fix the gas tank hatch, it felt soft when stepping on it, so i remove the core material and to my surprise the core was honeycomp style PAPER
, never seen that before and was soaked in water(sorry no picture of that) so removed it and epoxied a 3/4 plywood secured with epoxy resin and filler, then epoxied the underside of it, looks pretty strong now.
Also finished with a layer of cloth the transom gap.
Starts to look good.
I
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Junior Member
No, it was not hard to remove at all. It had foam on te top portion of the perimeter so what i did was used a hack saw blade and cut it loose.
Foam was not wet.
Any body knows if the foam were using is it closed cell? (does not absorb water).
Foam was not wet.
Any body knows if the foam were using is it closed cell? (does not absorb water).
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Junior Member
I've been doing some work on the V lately, can't go full throtle, i've been busy with work. Anyway, besides changing all wires, removed live well(what a huge space under it), changing location of second battery(under the live well), also in the same location i installed the raw water washdown pump, battery charger and the second battery.
I remove part on the original console and made a new one to fit my gauges, switches and GPS.
Also painted the side rod holder boxes, they came out much better that expected.
I remove part on the original console and made a new one to fit my gauges, switches and GPS.
Also painted the side rod holder boxes, they came out much better that expected.
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Junior Member
For some reason some of the pics i took today they came out.............. green? I don't know why.
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Junior Member
I never had to before, besides, i took some pics outside with the same results ?????????
willy
God
fluorescents cause green, incandescents cause red. If you got green outside you might have had the setting wrong for daylight. I don't know but that is how photography works. also if you had red eye setting and flash with daylight it can cause odd happenings. You have to check the settings for the lighting you are using, especially with digital. If you leave it on auto sometimes it reads wrong and sets the lighting wrong.
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Junior Member
I have not connect anything yet, the only gauge that has to be connected to the harness is the tach(the digital) which gives RPMS, hours, trim position, oil level indicator and high water temp idiot light/warning, the rest of the gauges get connected to the motor with senders. When i finish i'll try to post the way i connected them.
I like the analog gauges better because i can see the needle better than trying to press the mode button on the digital to check voltage, temp, fuel level, etc.
I also got the fuel management that connects on the Lowrance and gives a whole bunch of info on the GPS screen.
