New Member - Possible '75 restore
- Thread starter brywheat
- Start date
Destroyer
God
Yes, but we're not real sticklers here. General is fine also. It's more important for us to see/help than to worry about what section the post is made in.
Transom Question
Thanks bradford...
Just uploaded pics to photobucket..now just to get them here.
Ok the transom questions
How thick should a transom be with a bracket?
Looks like the original was 2" and has a slight curve
Should 1/4" marine ply flex to the outter skin?
vice versa??
thinking of a 1/4' ply sandwich as follows..
outter skin
glue
1/4" marine ply
let cure to keep the original curve
add mat & 1/4"
glue & keep building up to at least 2.5??
Any input would be great.
Thanks bradford...
Just uploaded pics to photobucket..now just to get them here.
Ok the transom questions
How thick should a transom be with a bracket?
Looks like the original was 2" and has a slight curve
Should 1/4" marine ply flex to the outter skin?
vice versa??
thinking of a 1/4' ply sandwich as follows..
outter skin
glue
1/4" marine ply
let cure to keep the original curve
add mat & 1/4"
glue & keep building up to at least 2.5??
Any input would be great.
so the original floor was raised with poor effort.
2 x 12's where screwed to the original stringers and not glassed, floor also wasnt glassed, good thing i think i can salvage the tank
It has been replaced. From what i understand, the '75 orginally had two saddle tanks??
the line made by the raised floor was even and I'll be going back to that height. I like a self bailing deck, but i will hardly ever leave it in the drink over night so not sure if i rather have the gunwale height or self bailing. mostly trailered from VA beach to South NJ chasing stripers, flounder & cobia
2 x 12's where screwed to the original stringers and not glassed, floor also wasnt glassed, good thing i think i can salvage the tank
It has been replaced. From what i understand, the '75 orginally had two saddle tanks??
the line made by the raised floor was even and I'll be going back to that height. I like a self bailing deck, but i will hardly ever leave it in the drink over night so not sure if i rather have the gunwale height or self bailing. mostly trailered from VA beach to South NJ chasing stripers, flounder & cobia
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bradford
God
I got to say, If you're going to do a full on restore that's the type of hull to do it on. Bring one back from the landfill and give her a new life.
Good for you Brywheat!
You might think of removing the cap and doing it all, stringers, bulkheads, raise the deck, new tanks, custom hatches, etc. It would actually be easier to work on if she was opened up. You're gonna "save" a pile of money doing it yourself.
EDIT: Nevermind she's a pre 78. Might be able to get away with leaving the cap on.
Good for you Brywheat!
You might think of removing the cap and doing it all, stringers, bulkheads, raise the deck, new tanks, custom hatches, etc. It would actually be easier to work on if she was opened up. You're gonna "save" a pile of money doing it yourself.
EDIT: Nevermind she's a pre 78. Might be able to get away with leaving the cap on.
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Cap removal questions
Will the hull maintain its shape with the cap completely off?
Bradford, I plan on replacing it all. transom-hoping for full w/ a bracket or at least a 30" hanging, havent decided yet, stingers with floor rasied above the water line, new deck, gunwales & cap.
Should i leave the inside skin? remove it completely?
you can see in the pics where the PO screwed 2 x 10" to the inside of the factory stingers to raise the floor height.
Its going to be a slow build, so have patience with me..
saving for all material now, rather have everything I need before completey striping it to the hull.
Kracker if your still out there Id love your input. Also somewhat local, SOuthern DE,
Your build looked awesome!
Will the hull maintain its shape with the cap completely off?
Bradford, I plan on replacing it all. transom-hoping for full w/ a bracket or at least a 30" hanging, havent decided yet, stingers with floor rasied above the water line, new deck, gunwales & cap.
Should i leave the inside skin? remove it completely?
you can see in the pics where the PO screwed 2 x 10" to the inside of the factory stingers to raise the floor height.
Its going to be a slow build, so have patience with me..
saving for all material now, rather have everything I need before completey striping it to the hull.
Kracker if your still out there Id love your input. Also somewhat local, SOuthern DE,
Your build looked awesome!
Destroyer
God
Most usually replace with a single tank, but not for the reason you'd expect. Side tanks are nice, but unless you drain them equally at the same time they tend to unbalance the boat, whereas a single tank in the middle always keeps the boat in trim as it drains. Plus you gain all that space under the gunnels for storage of rods, boat hooks, nets, extinguishers and God knows what else. (and as an added bonus, the single tanks usually hold more than the two side tanks combined).
CAP? stringer core material?
What about the cap Destroyer? will the hull keep its shape with it off for awhile? Ive be told as far as the stringers, replace one at a time, leaving the other in place until completed due to "oil canning" of the hull
What do you think?
Ive also seen a few build threads where actual 2" x 10" fur planks where used for stingers. Would ply be a better choice & why? Im probably going with A/A douglas fur for everthing.
What about the cap Destroyer? will the hull keep its shape with it off for awhile? Ive be told as far as the stringers, replace one at a time, leaving the other in place until completed due to "oil canning" of the hull
What do you think?
Ive also seen a few build threads where actual 2" x 10" fur planks where used for stingers. Would ply be a better choice & why? Im probably going with A/A douglas fur for everthing.
Destroyer
God
There are several people here that have had their cap off that can answer your question better than I, but, logically, when the cap is put back on the hull should return to it's original shape. (Presuming that you didn't do anything to it to misshape it). As far as the stringers go, I'd do them one at a time, and, like the old carpenter's adage says, measure twice, cut once.
Tons of questions!! Help please
So Im still confused about the stringers and transom and have a million questions.
Transom
With the slight curve of transom Ive been told to start with 1/4" ply as it will easly bend to the exisiting outter skin. What do the pros say?
Here is the layup Ive been thinking
outter skin, resin & mat? or glue?, 1/4" ply, using a/a or a/b fir,resin & mat? or glue?, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2", resin & mat, till i get 2.5", told thats the thickness i need to safely hang a floation bracket..need advice there too....Should i fillet the edges of each transom ply as i go? tabbing each piece as I go? 1708 for the outter skin x 2
Stringers
are they one single piece of ply? 1"? what ive seen on a few builds If so how do you tie in two pieces for your lenght?
For instance, did you make a "bed" for the stringers? is epoxy glue good enough for the bed? or use mat & resin?
should the old glass encapsulating the old stringers be completely removed?
Keep up the great work and thanks again for any input!
Thnaks a million for the help!
So Im still confused about the stringers and transom and have a million questions.
Transom
With the slight curve of transom Ive been told to start with 1/4" ply as it will easly bend to the exisiting outter skin. What do the pros say?
Here is the layup Ive been thinking
outter skin, resin & mat? or glue?, 1/4" ply, using a/a or a/b fir,resin & mat? or glue?, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2", resin & mat, till i get 2.5", told thats the thickness i need to safely hang a floation bracket..need advice there too....Should i fillet the edges of each transom ply as i go? tabbing each piece as I go? 1708 for the outter skin x 2
Stringers
are they one single piece of ply? 1"? what ive seen on a few builds If so how do you tie in two pieces for your lenght?
For instance, did you make a "bed" for the stringers? is epoxy glue good enough for the bed? or use mat & resin?
should the old glass encapsulating the old stringers be completely removed?
Keep up the great work and thanks again for any input!
Thnaks a million for the help!