Greetings and Merry Christmas! I have 1987 V20 steplift with the original 150 Yamaha--I love this boat. But it's time to say good bye (or more like good riddance) to my OLD tandem trailer w/ rollers. My question is do you think I can get away with a single axle bunk trailer this go around? I only use the trailer twice a year the and the trip is under 2 miles on rural roads at low speeds. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Need recommendation on new trailer for my '87 V20 Steplift
- Thread starter sgnhis
- Start date
Destroyer
God
Check with your state laws concerning brakes. Some states require brakes over a certain length and some require brakes over a certain weight. In all cases, brakes are just a damn good idea. Personally, I'm partial to surge actuated hydraulic drum brakes, but that's just me and I take extra precautions to keep mine working properly. In your situation, with a 2 mile run on rural roads I would think you would be okay, but for anyone that trailers over highways and interstates @ 50-70 mph brakes become a necessity rather than a luxury. Your and other peoples lives could depend on the distance it takes to stop and without brakes at those speeds you effectively double your stopping distance.
Brand is almost unimportant, since all trailer makers must meet certain requirements by the DOT in order to sell their trailers. What is more important is the load rating of the trailer, the physical size and what it's made out of. You basically have 3 choices.... Painted, Galvanized and Aluminum. If you are going anywhere near salt water than you want to avoid painted like the plague. My personal preference is Galvanized, but that's just me and everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
Rollers vs Bunks have been the topics of numerous discussions on this board, with the results being almost evenly divided 50-50. What has become more apparent is the type of ramp you launch from. Most Northern ramps are steeper and shorter than ones found down south and roller trailers seem to be the most preferred. However, down south where the ramps are longer and not as steep the Bunk trailers seem to hold sway as the most preferred style. Again, it's entirely up to you.
Just make sure that when you buy your trailer it is long enough to properly support your boat. (Looking underneath the boat as it's mounted on the trailer, the end of the bunk or the roller should be even with the transom of your boat). Too short a trailer will (over the years) result in the hull developing a dent in the hull due to the extra weight of the engine on the stern of the boat. This is known as cupping and can effect the performance of your boat. So make sure the trailer is the proper length.
Brand is almost unimportant, since all trailer makers must meet certain requirements by the DOT in order to sell their trailers. What is more important is the load rating of the trailer, the physical size and what it's made out of. You basically have 3 choices.... Painted, Galvanized and Aluminum. If you are going anywhere near salt water than you want to avoid painted like the plague. My personal preference is Galvanized, but that's just me and everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
Rollers vs Bunks have been the topics of numerous discussions on this board, with the results being almost evenly divided 50-50. What has become more apparent is the type of ramp you launch from. Most Northern ramps are steeper and shorter than ones found down south and roller trailers seem to be the most preferred. However, down south where the ramps are longer and not as steep the Bunk trailers seem to hold sway as the most preferred style. Again, it's entirely up to you.
Just make sure that when you buy your trailer it is long enough to properly support your boat. (Looking underneath the boat as it's mounted on the trailer, the end of the bunk or the roller should be even with the transom of your boat). Too short a trailer will (over the years) result in the hull developing a dent in the hull due to the extra weight of the engine on the stern of the boat. This is known as cupping and can effect the performance of your boat. So make sure the trailer is the proper length.
spareparts
God
my boat was towed from Atlanta to Charleston on a single axle trailer before I bought it. I prefer a tandem, but a single will work. If you decide to get brakes, get disc if you actually need them, get drums if you are only getting them to be legal. After one season in salt, the drums will be frozen in place, remove the shoes and bolt the hubs back on. The disc will probably;ly be frozen as well if it sets parked a lot, parts for the disc generally cost more
SkunkBoat
God
2800(pounds) isn't going to cut it. I had a Load Rite RS-193100RT. Rollers,no brakes. Boat fit right. The trailer guy said it met the minimum for the boat weight. Only used for short trip twice a year to launch & recover for season.
As for brakes. depends on state regs. For a short haul twice a year they are more trouble than help. Because they don't get used enough they will be locked up every spring and fall unless you disassemble them ...they suck.... been there...
Brakes that lock up are more dangerous than none on a rig that is light enough to go without them. Your boat is 2000, motor 400-500, gas 300, batteries andgear puts you right at 3100
Destroyer
God
Thanks everyone for the great advice! Does anyone have a particular trailer brand and model in mind? I just want to make sure the one I purchase fits like a glove. I'm hoping to find a single axle with no brakes but it seems and trailers in my weight range all have brakes--I can deal with (I actually own a brake repair business). I was looking at the Venture VB-3100 galvanized mode single axlel with brakes (standard). Think this would be a good fit?
Thanks again for all the help!
Thanks again for all the help!
phatdaddy
God
Just a quick look at their website, i'd probably opt for the 3300. only thing i see different is the 15" vs 14" tire, which id rather have than the 14.
As far as fitting your hull, probably going to take some adjusting on your part. sometimes that is part of the deal, other times, an extra charge.
also, when not in use, store on stands off ground and tires deflated if possible. tires are crappy now days ,but might make them last little longer. covered and out of sun really helps also.
Edit: just looking at internet prices, 15" tires are $300-$400 upgrade, given your use, probably not worth it, Carry on
As far as fitting your hull, probably going to take some adjusting on your part. sometimes that is part of the deal, other times, an extra charge.
also, when not in use, store on stands off ground and tires deflated if possible. tires are crappy now days ,but might make them last little longer. covered and out of sun really helps also.
Edit: just looking at internet prices, 15" tires are $300-$400 upgrade, given your use, probably not worth it, Carry on
Last edited:
Thanks PhatDaddy that's solid advise. I assume you are talking about a Venture 3300 trailer? My best bud down where I keep my boat is an excellent boat mechanic (best in Reedville, VA) and works on trailers so he'll be able to adjust it no problem. We use his truck it's a 2014 Chevy 2500HD with a DuraMax diesel--plenty of truck to pull my boat. I really appreciate the advise I'm getting ready to pull the trigger just want to make sure I order the right one.
I have a 1987 V20 and have used a load-rite single axle roller trailer for years. Much like you, I take a trip to the ramp in the spring and one in the fall. No problems. I tow with a Chevy 4WD truck. I did go from a dual to the single axle but the single has 14 inch wheels.
GB
GB