need advice on used outboard purchase...

bigshrimpin .. thanks for the offer .. i am in no hurry .. the boat is not seeing the water anytime soon as i have loads of other things to do.

let me know what you get in...

the search continues......
 
what hp did merc make with the 2.0? is it just 150hp or did they do 175 or 200 .. i see quite a few motors but almost none of them list whether it is a 2.0 or not.

i was on the phone with 1 outboard and they told me to stay away from 2.4 or 2.5 mercs as they have problems with the block .. not nearly as strong as the 2.0?????

i am looking at one on ebay .. motor cover says 2.5 but the ad reads that it has a 2.4 power head.????

bigshrimpin .. what is the weight of the merc motor you were telling me about ... is it near what a 2.0 250 would weigh? do you have any pics??

thanks
 
bsteckel said:
check this out, ferm ... that merc 150 you found me on ebay a while back .. the one that was labeled "clean" .. the auction was ended all of a sudden .. it is now relisted

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Boa...QadiZ2823QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230262507201&

it looks as though there is a compression problem on one cylinder ... 5 are at 125 and one is at 90.

what do you think?
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That motor has been cleaned up painted and looks almost new. People do this because it draws the attention away from the mecanics and to how clean it looks. I would rather see an engine that they have not detail and that way you can focus on what matters and not the fancy new paint job.
 
Stillrunning said:
That motor has been cleaned up painted and looks almost new. People do this because it draws the attention away from the mecanics and to how clean it looks. I would rather see an engine that they have not detail and that way you can focus on what matters and not the fancy new paint job.
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Now you know, my 150 on my flats boat I have for sale is that clean. And it's a 95. Them freshwater motors sure stay clean compared to a slaty dog.
 
2.0's came in 135/150/175. The 2.5L's aren't a bad engine by any means, steel sleeve motors most of em just like the 2.0's. The 2.5L engine actually has better porting and such in it. The 2.4L engines use a special sleeveing set-up cosisting of either NICASIL or CHROME depending upon year and model. Some of them have been re-sleeved with steel sleeves though as the NICASIL and CHROME is BIG money to repair. The 2.0L's are known for being stout engines, can't nobody take that from em either.
 
how bout a 94 merc 225 3.0l carbed motor .. looks like it weighs 395lbs. only 10 more than the 2.0 150..

how are these motors? ... weight is right.
 
bsteckel said:
how bout a 94 merc 225 3.0l carbed motor .. looks like it weighs 395lbs. only 10 more than the 2.0 150..

how are these motors? ... weight is right.
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That weight sounds AWFULLY LOW for a 3.0L MERC. I want to say they are closer to 450-475 pounds(maybe even more). The 3.0L is a big engine compared to a 2.0L. And an AWFUL LOT OF TORQUE for a V-20. They were not bad on fuel, but did use ALOT of oil. Had one on a PRO-LINE 231 years back. Boat held 125 gallons of gas, and 3 gallons of oil. It would ALWAYS run out of oil before gas on a long trip. You had to carry extra oil with you on that boat, not to mention how much it ALWAYS smoked. The 3.0L's I want to say ran the oil injection at 75:1 at idle, and 32:1 at WOT, and dropped back to 40:1 for cruise.
 
That guy with who list the 175 with the external pump is a decade off on the date of that motor. serial number beginning with 532 for the 175 is 1978 not 1988. I like those motors, but there worth $500 on a good day . . . unless it's in mint condition.
 
shrimpin ... what does your 2.4 175 look like? what kind of shape is it in? and also the 2.0 you may be able to put together in a month ..

what kind of shape is that one in? ..

i am doing this boat over so i want something that looks presentable while also vg in mechanical condition.

ferm ... i got that weight from the nada online guide .. it lists the 225 at 395 lbs ...

the smoking problem worries me .. not interested in getting smoked out.
 
ok ... i found this .. guy has an 2002 evinrude 200 hp ficht .. powerhead blew and there is a hole in it .. supposedly in great condition other than that .. freshwater use.

i know this motor is a bit heavy ... someone in the beginning of my search said stay away from anything with ficht written on it? not sure why.

thinking of going this route and either getting a power head ready to go or finding and rebuilding one .. this way i know what i have.

any thoughts on this?
 
bsteckel said:
ok ... i found this .. guy has an 2002 evinrude 200 hp ficht .. powerhead blew and there is a hole in it .. supposedly in great condition other than that .. freshwater use.

i know this motor is a bit heavy ... someone in the beginning of my search said stay away from anything with ficht written on it? not sure why.

thinking of going this route and either getting a power head ready to go or finding and rebuilding one .. this way i know what i have.

any thoughts on this?
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My question would be why did it blow? Powerheads don't normally just blow a hole through the block unless something else was wrong that caused it to happen. Engines do wear out, but not many actually wear them out. Look at it this way, you get a rebuilt powerhead for it or rebuild one. Don't kid yourself it WILL cost AT LEAST $2000 if you can do the whole job(with the exception of machineing) yourself. A rebuilt powerhead will set you back closer to $4K because a windowed block will most likely not be an acceptable core.

Then you still have an unknown engine with a MAJOR problem to be fixed still. I did a nice write-up awhile back about this, most overlook why the original failure occurred and then it happens again right away. So after say $2000-$2500 for the rebuild and a few incidentals, now your going to be takeing it to a FICHT expert for programming(or buying the software yourself) to set-it up for break-in. And now you have an engine that could still need an injector or EMM to fix the original failure. You could spend another $1K REAL quick paying a shop to diagnose an engine that VERY few understand and can work on.

FICHTS aren't all bad, but when you get a problem child ANYTHING it can cost you a FORTUNE to keep it running.
 
good point, ferm. i was tossing around the idea of buying a motor that i knew was broke then fixing it and knowing what i have ..

versus taking someone's word on a running engine and then rolling the dice on how long it lasts.

crap shoot either way.

did locate a 93 yammi 150 .. it is the c series that does not have oil injection .. may take a look this weekend.
 
bsteckel said:
good point, ferm. i was tossing around the idea of buying a motor that i knew was broke then fixing it and knowing what i have ..

versus taking someone's word on a running engine and then rolling the dice on how long it lasts.

crap shoot either way.

did locate a 93 yammi 150 .. it is the c series that does not have oil injection .. may take a look this weekend.
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There's nothing wrong with getting a fixer, but I would limit that search to an engine that the average person can fix WITHOUT a laptop. A FICHT or OPTIMAX would not be my idea of an economical fixer upper. There's alot of MERCURY and OMC parts out there at pretty much any given time for reasonable money. MOST DFI engines are considered a throw away engine once any major problems occur. The replacement of an early OPTIMAX's compressor is almost not feasible considering a compressor will set you back for close to a $1K in parts on a $2-3K engine.
 
here we go again ... am on vacation for the next 10 days in DE ... located a 98 yamaha 150, oil inj. saltwater series motor. guy says he bought 2 motors as a pair .. approx 450 hours. installed this one on his boat. he could not get the motor to spin up past 3100 rpms or so .. took off carbs, cleaned them .. tried again .. no go. changed fuel pump ... again no go. i think he even replaced the carbs and still no high rpms.

so then he gave up and put the other motor on that he got and it worked great. so now this motor is for sale. says he checked compression and all were 98-115. he says that is all he can tell me. he gave up and put the other motor on .. then this one went in storage. did not have the time to fool with it.

motor looks real nice externally. not sure what else could be the problem. he said he can rev the motor up past 3100 by hand, but when motor is in gear .. no go.

does this sound like something i should walk from or maybe this could be an easy fix .. not sure what there is left to try.

thanks
 
Looks like you decided the not to go for the evinrude, would have been my choice too. I think they had alot of problems early 2000's.
sorry I don't have any input for the 98 Yamaha, I will ask my buddy who is a outboard mechanic for you.
 
ferm ... something i should run away from .. or simple (read affordable) fix? i see he just put it up on ebay.
 
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