Need a new bunk trailer

S

sgnhis

Member
Happy new year to all! I have an 87' V20 outboard and need a new trailer. I'm located in Reedville, VA on the Chesapeake bay. Can someone recommend a good quality bunk trailer. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I bought a Road King aluminum dual axle bunk trailer a couple years ago, it has surge brakes on one axle with the electric lockout for backing up and torsion axles.

Pulls like a dream, paid around $2500 for it I think, should last me for 20 years or more.
 
Just an idea but have you thought about buying a used one and rebuilding it? it's a heck of a lot cheaper. Good Luck
 
New Traile fo 87" V20

Thanks for the responses but $2500 is out of my budget and a the old trailer is too far gone to rebuild. I'm kind of set on a new one... hopefully there is a less expensive alternative; maybe a Venture or something similar. Ant ideas are very much appreciated!
 
I agree $2500 is alot, but if you go anywhere near saltwater, aluminum is a must. You may find a used aluminum in the $1200-1500 range if you're lucky. I probably put well over $1000 into my previous galvanized trailer over the last five years. 3 sets of leaf springs, axle, bearings, hubs, bearings again, winch, tongue hitch, lights, new lights on PVC posts. The salt is relentless. Get aluminum.

What sucks is that my project V also came with a beat up galvanized trailer, so I've got to make the same decision as you. I'll save up for an aluminum.
 
Welcome Sgnhis, I'm going to pick up a couple of Mercruiser 3.7 motors today in Suffolk Va. The guy I'm getting them from is selling his Wellcraft 19 ft. bowrider and nearly new trailer. He told me he would let them go seperately. I'll check it out and let you know what I find out.
 
I'm one of those "other guys". I like the look and strength and cost of galvanized. While I agree that aluminum is great, it can corrode from the salt just like any other metal. Granted, it doesn't rust, but it does corrode. The trick with all trailers is to make sure you give them a really good washdown with sweet water at the end of the day, and if you should see some rust or corrosion starting be very aggressive in stopping it before it spreads. That means wire brushing, sanding or sandblasting, priming and painting for any metal.

I like the "I" beam consruction of most aluminum trailers,since there's no place for the salt to hide like in a box beam construction. Flushing out the box beam is a PITA and most ppl never do it which is why most galvanized
trailers rust out. The enemy is within. I used to use a 360 degree lawn sprinkler head mounted on the end of some schedule 40 pipe to flush the insides of the box beams.... but truthfully, since I don't launch in salt much anymore I've pretty much stopped doing that. I love the fact that I launch and retrieve in freshwater. The trip back upriver from the ocean gives my engine a good 40+ minute flush of freshwater after a day in the salt, and the trailer never touches the brine. Ahhhh...life is good.
 
heres mine I bought new in 2008 dual wheel for 3100.00

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awthacker said:
I agree $2500 is alot, but if you go anywhere near saltwater, aluminum is a must. You may find a used aluminum in the $1200-1500 range if you're lucky. I probably put well over $1000 into my previous galvanized trailer over the last five years. 3 sets of leaf springs, axle, bearings, hubs, bearings again, winch, tongue hitch, lights, new lights on PVC posts. The salt is relentless. Get aluminum.

What sucks is that my project V also came with a beat up galvanized trailer, so I've got to make the same decision as you. I'll save up for an aluminum.
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every thing you fixed is the same on Aluminum trailers galv is a much better trailer as the aluminum tend to flex alot going do the road and they are prone to cracking at major supports plus most aluminum trailers still have a steel togue. i own several of both and the steel are twice as strong.
 
awthacker said:
I agree $2500 is alot, but if you go anywhere near saltwater, aluminum is a must. You may find a used aluminum in the $1200-1500 range if you're lucky. I probably put well over $1000 into my previous galvanized trailer over the last five years. 3 sets of leaf springs, axle, bearings, hubs, bearings again, winch, tongue hitch, lights, new lights on PVC posts. The salt is relentless. Get aluminum.

What sucks is that my project V also came with a beat up galvanized trailer, so I've got to make the same decision as you. I'll save up for an aluminum.
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3 sets of leaf springs in 5 years??? Do you know you are supposed to rinse the trailer down after it goes in saltwater? I've never heard of someone going through 3 sets of leaf springs in 5 years and I've had boats for 40 years, all of it in saltwater. Skool is right, everything you replaced on that galvanized trailer is the same on an aluminum trailer.

Most of those 40 years I've had galvanized trailers. I've owned galvanized trailers for over 10 years, that were probably 10 or more years old when I got them and didn't put that kind of money into them (had a V20 sitting on it, too). You need to wash the trailer every time it goes in, install buddy bearings and keep them lubed, wire brush and touch up galvanized paint when it needs it (maybe every few years). Do some basic maintenance and a galvanized trailer can easily last 20 years. I've got another that's 12 years old now and looks like it will go another 10 easy.

Galvanized definitely pulls better than aluminum, just because it is heavier and stiffer. It's more work, but I think it is a better trailer if you keep it up.
 
guess this is why baskin robbins has 31 flavors, i've been trailer boating for 35 years and will never have a galvanized after getting an aluminum. we might have different salt water down here but i relpaced leaf springs every 2 to 3 years. and i rinsed everytime i got home. the killer is when you dunk in the morning and it sets in the fl sun for 8-12 hours. i got tired of cross members rotting out and roller shafts giving out. i went al bunk with torsion axle with accu-lube and solved a lot of my problems. i also bought a 7500# trailer for a v-20. it was only $250 more at the time(different axels). as far the difference in pulling, couldn't really tell a difference. i did have a problem with the al floating when the boat was off loaded, but i put a piece of 3" pvc with concrete on each rail and solved that problem. i launch about 50 to 60 times a year, but my trip tothe ramp is only about 10 miles roundtrip. i've also pulled to the keys 4 or 5 times ,1600 miles round trip.
 
I tried to find a used one when I needed an upgrade, the used ones that didn't need fixing were the same price as new, the used ones that needed fixing up were no better than what I had.

I priced fixing my old one and figured about $1300 in parts plus my time to do the work, and then I still had a 25 year old trailer.

Good luck with your search.
 
It's a Ford vs Chevy debate. A lot comes down to owner maintainence. Something to watch for on aluminum is did the manufacturer place gaskets between the aluminum and any galvinized brackets. If not you should. The steel will rot out the aluminum when sitting at the ramp all day soaked in salt. Also full square tube steel is gonna rot out a lot faster than c channel. Also are the fasteners stainless? I'd rather by a used trailer with a good solid frame and spend a grand on it replacing everything than something thats brand new and shiny, but is gonna rot out in 5-6 years of use.

ps Be careful replacing bolts that are under heavy load such as axle u bolts with stainless. Something that needs to be torqued is a lot safer using galvinized bolts.
 
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