Member Selling

yep thats him!!

Got to pull that motor and out drive to replace athat coupler!! Been there done that!! >:(
 
Have no idea?? I did the job myself,

I added a piece of ply to the floor of the boat,

put a engin lift in the boat undid the mounts and removed the out drive.

Lifted the motor out right in the boat, and while it was hanging there I swaped out the coupler, thats easy, just mounts to the flywheel.

Then you replace the motor and the outdrive and you good to go.

Sounds easy but you have to get to all the bolts, and it was bad anough in a stright 6cyl never mind a V8!!

Then you have to get lucky that all lines up again, they have a alinement tool to make sure.
I was lucky, never had the tool and all was well when it was over!

I would say if a mariner was doing it it would cost about 6 hours labore and about $150 for the part? Thats what I payed for the part about 6 years ago.

But you can bet that the mariner will eed other parts!!

I bet you are looking at $700 to $1000?
 
Hammer depends on two things what are you willing to do yourself and if it is done by a mechanic and you get the boat for a sweet price, which I think you will because of the circumstances he is in and the boat needing work it could work out very well for someone
 
Post pics. of the part needing replacing. Surprised you need a special tool to align the engine. Figured you bolt it back down to the motor mounts the same way you do a car engine.
 
The engine coupler is just like a prop hub. The splined shaft to the outdrive slides into it and then it bolts to the engine. They give way with age due to heat. The purpose of the rubber coupler is to keep from breaking the crank if you take a shot to the outdrive.
The motor mounts have some adjustment built into them. If things aren't lined up right you will have virabtion problems and probably wear out gimbal bearings pretty fast. Most times the dealer you buy parts from will let you borrow the alignment tool. It's just an input shaft from the out drive that hasa a handle on it. If it goes through the gimbal bearing into the coupler smoothly then your good to go.

Airslot
 
YAY!! My boat for sale. Heard alot about that coupler going from engine misalignment and makes sense because the motor was out before I bought the boat (to replace gimbal bearing). Yes the motor could have been dropped in exactly how it came out but what happens is that over time the motor will start to sink in the stringer enough to knock it out of alignment. And being that the coupler is rubber-isolated, it wouldn't take much misalignment of the motor to fail the coupler. And when it happened I was almost home from a 5+ hour trip. At first I thought it went because of age and the heat from the motor but misalignment could be the culprit. who knows, it could have only went because of age but also thinking about an all cast iron 350 with the exhaust manifolds and risers too all sitting on 1989 fiberglassed 2X6's, makes me think the mounts could have settled. Granted the fact that now the boat barely moves, this is only an inexspensive repair thats just R&R rather than rebuilding the motor or outdrive. And in ths boat the motor is fairly accesible compared to other boats where the motor is below floor level. All in all this is a great boat and to hear that 350 roaring as you're doing close to 45mph, it's a great ride! I think it is capable of going faster with a prop change as it has a 21 pitch prop and it the rpms are lower than they should be. I have the reserve on this boat a few thousands dollars than NADA value so somebody is gonna get a nice boat for a good price. <p> I heard of people using just the shaft from the outdrive to use that as an alignment tool. Some say alot about having a "special" tool to align the motor but you could use a spare shaft to align it or if want to go through the trouble of removing the shaft from the outdrive then you clould. I have also heard of using a wooden dowel that has been modified to fit in the splined couple snuggly and the gimbal bearing at the same time. I am a machinist so I would just make one out of an aluminum rod.
 
I still think he could sell it quicker without all that extra weight of the full enclosure. I'm willing to take it off his hands. ;D
 
I think hammer really wants my enclosure. As I previously mentioned, buy the enclosure for $5500 and I'll give you a free boat!
 
Hammer I don't think that is a good deal, unless you take the top and give me the boat, I'll fix it and sell it :)
 
Lesterus, thanks for that resource. There's some great stuff on that site! We might want to consider including the site in our recommended links...
 
THE COUPLING GOES BECAUSE OF ENGINE MISALIGNMENT, EVERY TIME YOU REMOVE THE ENGINE OR THE OUTDRIVE, YOU SHOULD CHECK THE ALIGMENT WITH THE ALIGNMENT TOOL, IT NEVER HURS, BECAUSE THE PART ITSELF GOES FOR BETWEEN $150-$250.00 DEPENDING OF WHAT TYPE YOU USE (THERE ARE 2 DIF.
COUPLINGS) HOWEVER THE JOB TO REPLACE IS EXPENSIVE, SORT OF WHEN THE BACKSEAL OF YOUR TRANSMISSION START LEAKING, THE SEAL COSTS $10.00
BUT REPLACING IT COSTS $800.00.

HERE'S A TIP, IF YOUR COUPLING EVER GOES WHEN YOU'RE OUT, WAIT A FEW MINUTES AND GET COOL "FRESH" WATER FROM YOUR COOLER AND POUR IT OVER THE COUPLING. WHEN IT COOLS YOU CAN GO AT LOW RPM'S

LESTERUS
 
Willy,
You should buy the boat and donate the top to me.
Its a Cop thing. Right ;D
Nice site, but didnt see any enclosures for the bim top.
But then again I didnt look to good. Gotta get to work. :'( :'( :'(
 
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