Is this a sign of transom problems?.

mushman

Junior Member
Hello, I just found this site, and I wish I had many years ago.
I've had my 1986 steplift since 98' and love the boat.It had a sea drive which was replaced with 24" Armstrong marine bracket(size recommended by the mechanic doing the job), and 1986 150 hp evinrude, had it done in 2001.
Here's my question.I have drilled into the transon a few times for my transducer,speed, cables and what not.
The wood inside seems soft, when I get through the gel coat the drill bit just goes right through the plywood.
It comes out clean almost wet looking(dark brown) ,but dry.
The cap covers the whole transom so I really cant go down into the transom I can only get it from the sides.
I've stepped on my bracket with the engine on and really don't notice any flex.Will the gelcoat show stress cracks before the whole thing goes?.I haven't seen any as of yet.
I live on long island, nassau county, are there any recommended shops to do this type of repair if it is needed?.
Here's a few pics,the cables have clamshells over them, they were just off at the time.

sep2007013.jpg


sep2007014.jpg
 
Welcome to the site. Nice clean V.
If the transom needs replacing, it will be expensive, usually more than the boat is worth. But given the prices of the new(er) boats may be worth it due to you knowing the repaired condition of the boat.
What your describing is usually dry rot from water intrusion.
Mine showed no appreciable flex doing the bounce test with the motor but when I got curious and removed the cap and started digging, found the only good place was directly center where the motor bolted.
Stress cracks should show up but not always where you think. Look a little farther beyond the transom, like the floor, cap ties and bottom about 2' from the rear.
I'd use the flex of the motor on the bracket as a barometer, also listen for slight popping as you bounce the motor. As far as the "whole thing going", you should see some compression of the transom from the bracket and possible loose bolts before any real problems are created.
Don't base any decisions on one opinion, listen to several people and do what makes the most sence.
 
Also, add to your profile your location.
Long Island, Nassau county, New York or Florida?
Pictures look like Florida.
 
Thanks for the reply, what happens to these transoms if left un attended?, do the engines just fall off?, in other words how do I know it's time to take the plunge?.
I've looked around here today and have seen many of the epoxy type of repairs mentioned.I would have to imagine removing the cap is a large job in itself.
Is ther any way of repairing this dry rot without taking the cap off?.
I do love the boat , I almost gave up on boating all together, but every time I get on it I feel like keeping it.
Is there also any way to check and see if the transom is due for repair without removing the cap?.
 
You can drill into the transom from the inside. Small 1/4 holes. Start at the bottom and work your way to the top.

If you get clean wood great!! if you get dark dry wood its not to bad, if you get dirt out ther hole you have junk!!

Should have the worse near the bottom and get better as you go up.

After you do your ck, fill all holes with some 5200 or other caulking!!


If its all dark like you say but wood you should be ok for a long time!! Just make sure that what ever is bolted o going to be bolted is sealed with 5200 to stop any water from getting in!
 
The picture shows a cover plate below the controls and hoses duct and above the bracket. Remove the cover plate and see if you can access any wood material from there.
Other places to try are the silicone plug for the transducer wire thru hole and the lifting rings.
Can't imagine the motor falling off unless your not attentive to possible problems. Case and point "I don't know how I ran out of gas". The bells, blinking lights and fuel gauge should have been a clue.
 
Welcome to the site. Vary nice looking V. ;)
All boats new or old are going to get water instrusion at one point. The guy who did teh bracket, is he reliable ?
Cant see him bolting on all that weight through rotted or soft wood.
 
msbhammer said:
Welcome to the site. Vary nice looking V.  ;)
All boats new or old are going to get water instrusion at one point. The guy who did teh bracket, is he reliable ?
Cant see him bolting on all that weight through rotted or soft wood.


Thanks for the welcome,He told me he would let me know if the transom wasn't any good when we started the whole job.At the time I had trusted him with all my boat repairs, and since then I have met many people who have not had good things to say about him.
The bracket job was my last dealing with him besides small purchases like oil and stuff.He yanked my chain forever just to get the job done. By the time I got it I was calling him like every week or so, So I don't know if he just slapped it on and sent me on my way.It took almost 8 mos to get it done, so I don't think I was asking too much.
I'm going to probe around the transom from the inside.It really is one thick slab back there so I'll check it in a few spots.
After many years of looking around the web for info on steplifts I never found as much as I have here in just one day.This is really a great site.
 
After many years of looking around the web for info on steplifts I never found as much as I have here in just one day.This is really a great site.

We already know that! ;) ;D Welcome
 
welcome aboard ;)

I have an 84 I/O and my transom is shot......but she still runs great and no problems so far. This spring I drilled a hole in the transom just above the water line to mount a wire clip for the transducer and WATER (a couple drops) actually came out of the hole I drilled. I ran her all summer with no problems and plan on running her until the outdrive falls off. So from what you described, my transom is worse than yours :-/ 8)
 
Thanks again for the warm welcome guys.
She's a keeper so I will do what I have to when the time comes.
One of my favorite things about this boat is all the access I have at the rear of the boat, but with this great feature it also makes any transom work tough, since the cap goes all around.
Would it be possible to just cut and remove the one section over the transom or is this a bad idea?.
 
Hammer did this on his project V. He should be able to help you or look up his thread. Very informative.

P.S. Good lookin boat, definantly worth transom work if needed. 8)
 
Your fine . . . if you can stand on the bracket and jump up an down and it does not flex then your fine. If you want to give it a real test . . . . go to a school parking lot and hit the speed bumps at 20mph . . . if the motor doesn't fall off then your fine. If the transom were rotten the bolts/washers on the inside would cut into the inside fiberglass skin. If your still worried . . . . do what MJ is saying and drill into the transom . . . Your transom is really not worth replacing unless it turned into worm dirt.
 
I think the speed bump test will wait till I hear some crackle back there, and when the washers start to cut I'll just have to get bigger washers. ;D
 
You might need to tighten the bolts on the bracket a little?

I did a year after I did the job, the bolts sucked in so much that it compressed the transom a little, the next 4 years were fine.

If you are a little lose or a little rotted it might losen up a bit, just try to snug them up and you will be fine for a long time yet!
 
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