Hope Now I Will NOT Blow Up

D

drbarbara

Member
Because one of my problems is that I like instant gratification, the idea of getting a rebuilt carb on e bay sounded like torture today. I found a carb place open on saturday and got for 160 dlls a rebuilt Holley 2bbl.

I replaced the carb, attached the throtttle linkage and the gas line (more about that in the next post) but then I ended up with an extra hose. In my old carburator there was a hose going from the starboard side of the carburator to the distributor, the hose is about 3 mm in inner diameter. The guy that sold me the rebuilt carb told me that the hose was a vacum hose and that marine carbs do not use vacum. The engine appears to run well without the hose attached to anything but it still makes me nervous to have a hose just hanging in the breeze. Please take a look.

What should I do with that hose?

http://www.docathome.us/BoatPictures/MVI_1875.AVI

Thanks
 
All carbs.....all engines use vaccum, thats how the gas gets in.

Maybe he meant that marine distributors don't use vaccum, which may be true, but I think someone here observed that you may not have a marine engine in your boat so you probably need the vaccum line hooked up to the distributor for the vaccum timing advance to work correctly.
 
On most carbs there are a couple of nipples here and there to hook up vaccum lines to, I have never owned a Holley so I don't know about them.

Someone with the answer will be along shortly I'm sure.
 
If your distributor has a vacuum canister on it, that means it is NOT a marine distributor. And marine carbs do not have a vacuum hook-up as marine engines do not use it. Vaccum advance is there for auto use to advance the timing when the engine isn't under heavy loads to improve the economy. In marine applications this is not needed as a marine engine is always under full load at every given RPM point. You have just confirmed you have a truck engine in your boat. The next thing I would look for is a marine distributor to fit your engine as automotive distributors do not have flame arrestors in them to prevent sparks from igniting any fuel vapors. I would reccomend you get a timing light and set your timing to around 24-28 degrees total timing.
 
BigDaddy said:
Is it just me or does Ferm sound like he knows what he's talkin about.Saulte>
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SSHHHH!!! Don't tell nobody. I used to work on cars for aliving and got into a bad car wreck, so afterwards I couldn't return to work. So I started to work on boats for people part-time when my body would let me. Haveing friends with boats can be a good thing:sun:. Unfortunately it led to my boat addiction:cen:. It also helps when I had a wrench in my hand before I could walk. I'm known to many as a jack of all trades, master of a couple. Sort of one of them mis spent youths deal. When my friends were out drinkin and partyin in high school, I was raceing and building engines. I had a guy at the dealership try and tell me that CHILTON's manuals were not normal bed time reading, I don't see why:head:.
 
BigDaddy said:
Answer the question,please. How much for a diagonstic?:D:beer:
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I'm fair and reasoneable with everybody, I keep getting told I work for too little by friends who work for themselves. The main issue would be the distance between the 2 of us though, I'm almost 4 hours away from FT LAUDERDALE. What kind of problems are you haveing?
 
Long story short, when I bought the boat (consignmeht dealer) they told me to keep the oil tank 2/3 full, dont fill it all the way. No problem, I thought, filled the tank 2/3 full on our first outing and kept my eye on it. Here in, lies the problem, after we were trolling in the ICWW one night (with the baby, no doubt), we were ready to call it a night and go home-4.5 miles away-i decided after the rods were put away I would give it a little gas, being i had never had it over 1/4 throttle. Well, after getting all the rods put away and getting straight, I slowly gave it about 1/3-1/2 throttle, it took off like a jet. Right as we were planing out, the motor died. We were dead in the water for about 2-3 minutes before it would fire back up. When I did get the motor started again, we developed a "tick". It wasnt a "knock", but a tick. We limped home and thanked god we made it safely. After 50 Gal of gas or so, since we bought the boat, it donned on me I hadnt burned a gallon of oil. There ya go, although the entire 50 gallons of gas was in a "minimum wake" zone, and being I was a new skipper, I didnt want to push anything (until I was familiar with my new vessel), we cruised it everywhere-up and down the ICWW. Would you like to hear the "tick"? I know its not good, i just hope its not BAD.:nut:

I cant stand to think that the "Reel Lucky" is not real lucky.
What you think?:head:
 
I take it your alarm doesn't work? How about the reservoir on the engine? Is it empty? I know the early YAMAHA's had an upgrade on the oil injection pumps as a few lost the powerheads due to failed pumps. If you got a noise then chances are your going to need to tear it down to find out what is making the noise. From your description best case scenario would be a scuffed piston, this would cause your tick which would actually be piston slap. So then you would have to decide is the engine worth putting that much money into to rebuild it? I can go out and take some pictures of what a YAMAH with a failed oil pump looks like, it aint pretty. And the cost to repair that 250 was more than I could re-sell it for after building it. It sounds like at this point a compression test is in order, and then pull the heads to see what it looks like inside.
 
Piston 1 is where the "tick" sounds like its coming from, 125 psi.
Other 5 pistons are at 135 psi. I syphoned all 50 Gallons out and have mixed 10 Gal worth. I was told to put an ounce of oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over (to circulate the oil) after doing that 3 times the "tick" has gotten quieter, but still I worry.
 
Sounds like a smeared piston. Reduced compression with a tick is a sign of a smeared pistom in the ring area. Haven't ever been in one of them old YAMAHA's, so I'm not sure if you could snake it out without splitting the case. If you could get it out without splitting it, you could do a light honing to clean the aluminum off the cylinder and replace the one piston to get it running again for awhile. On an old outboard like that I wouldn't personally sink alot of money into it since you don't know the history on it. Could be able to do just a piston for $200-300 if it isn't in that bad of condition inside. If it's all slated up from years of saltwater useage, then it can get expensive when you have to hot wrench everything apart.
 
Been there done that!! I had 1989 Yamaha 175 and the injection pump let go, sounds nasty when you are going along!!
I really nursed it along to get home, just idle all the way! Comression in one cylinder was junk and needed one pistion. I sold the motor and bought another.

fix it and get rid of the oil injection!!
 
Well the first thing I did was rip out the oil tank. Second thing I did was syphon out all the gas (50 Gals), mixed it up and poured it back in. I shot some video with sound last night so you could hear what it sounds like. Im gonna start a new thread with the video tonight.
Firm believer of B.O.A.T (break out another thousand)
 
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