Hatch cover replacement/reglass finished

  • Thread starter Thread starter steelheader13
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steelheader13

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Thanks for all that sent me some help.  Project was not real easy, as I did not have the right tools for the job.  You really do need a grinder of some type for this type of reglass work.  This is the first time I have ever tried it also and I have an all new respect for people in the boat glass trade and even body shop guys.  

I got busy at my real job and was sidetracked, but finally finished.

Thanks to Franco for giving me the ambition and confidence to Get-R-Done. And Clamc for stopping by for his expert advice and final push which gave me a second wind at the end.

Here are some pics of project.  Hatches are now the toughest part of my boat and am confident that an elephant (okay maybe a baby elephant) could stand on these hatches with no damage.

Was quoted $600-800 for this repair, I did it all for $110-$120 + time.  

21yearsold.jpg


wetwoodisnogood.jpg


badsituation.jpg


ANGLEGRINDING.jpg


workable.jpg


READYTOREGLASS.jpg


Cleaning up with mineral spirits.

lookingbetter.jpg



newwood.jpg



firstlayeron.jpg


FIRSTLAYER.jpg


nobubbles.jpg


HATCHNEW.jpg


HATCH2.jpg



Thanks again. Steel
 
Thats my winter project, they probably could go a little longer but have a definet softness that I want to eliminate, nice job and great pics appreciate it will help this winter ;)
 
Check your pm box.

I am up for it this Sat/Sun. if weather looks good.

I may also have some family obligations, but will no more later on.

Which day is best for you?
 
Great job! I have a 1987 V20 cc and all the hatches are sagging a little bit too. If you don't mind can you let me know what all the materials you used to do the job.
 
One thing I didn't understand about the hatch replacement - the part in the middle where it says, "New wood just before I gooped all sides with resin without hardener to soak in".

My question is, why no hardener? At what point was the hardener applied? I didn't understand that part. Any ideas? ???
 
The resin will soak in the wood stoping it from absorbing anythuing else, when you add glass and hardner it will harden the out side reel nice!!

If you were to add the hardner it would get hard before it ever had a chance to soak in.
 
Don't buy cheap grinders, put the $100 down and get one of the Milwaukee long trigger grinders. It's one of the most useful tools in my garage and has especially proven its worth when it comes to rusty trailer hardware. An 8.5 amp 4.5" grinder has power to spare.
 
I bought one of those cheap griders at Harbor Freight.
I am extremely pleased with it.
I had to do some plumbing work that included cutting cast iron drain pie.
No trouble at all, I even splashed wtaer on the thing,
let it dry, no problem.
Same with drills, I spent lots of money on battery drills,
they keep losing power at the wrong times.
I went to Wally World and bought a $20 plug in,
now that is the only drill I use, I just have to bring extension cords,
But many times I thought I burned it up, only to have it be like a timex.

There are exceptions that I will spend a lot of money,
but for tools that take a beating, I'm sold on the throw away's that don't ever seam to die.
 
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