Front, side, bow curtains

Funny you say that Jason. I almost mentioned that.

1) if you bump it with your foot or something it will cut off. 2) in rough seas it sometimes cuts off due to pounding. Not being a fan of getting pounded to death in the first place, it hasn't been a huge problem. Works fine trolling even when a little snotty.

Oh yeah and 3) if you take a huge wave over the bow and 5 gallons of saltwater lands on your Mr. Heater it will cut off.....and possibly not come back on for a little while. :haha:
 
bgreene
Different options for different preferences.
I had mine done so the center front section zips, rolls up, and snaps when I want good air flow.
Click to expand...

I agree on the front to open, I had a top that did not open once and man it can get hot in there even with the back not there!!
But I would love to enclose with a heater now in my old age!!LOL
 
Bow cover re done, and I like the fit.

Rubber flange on the outer edge now presses down making full contact with the boat which was the intent.
We just moved the snaps closer to the edge to achieve it.

Should be good to go - an easily removable, durable, nice looking addition to cut mostly all the risk of water intrusion into the cuddy. The back end extends and closes under the center windshield, nice.

Now that I've done the design, and had it modified - you can get one for your V from Dynamic Upholstery too. I'm not selling it or collecting a fee to make a few bucks on V owners. I'm just pleased to pass on a little helpful engineering project to other V owners, same as you guys have done for me. Sam kept the pattern and will include the snaps so it's complete.
 
step up here said:
Awesome Bennet
Are you going to tow with that enclosure up? :nice:
Click to expand...

Step - I DID tow with the enclosure up and it was no problem - no sign of stressing the material or the frame. No signs of anything afterwards either. It's a pretty sturdy set up, snug and tight to begin with, plus all those zippers and snaps to keep it steady.

Anyway - figure it's got to be strong enough for a boat that could run up to 50mph ......so what's the difference between that and towing at the same speed. Not that my boat hits 50 mph, just saying as example. I towed watching it at 40, 50, 55, and 60 ........all stayed the same the whole way back.

So, bottom line............with much colder conditions, I plan to tow with the top up. This way I can avoid trying to handle cold set up time and effort. You know how it is to zip and snap those panels in the cold. ( and dark )

How much longer I fish - not sure - it may actually be over soon.
 
Back in 1999 when I 1st set up my '74 one of the 1st things I did was have a top w/4 sided enclosure made...wasn't a matter of adding winter to the season...we were fishing 12 months anyway...was a matter of makin' it more tolerable...the back enclosure contains the heat from the propane disc (about the same output as a Mr Heater)...w/out the back, there's no containment and you'll have to be about 6" from the heater to feel it...across the front, the center and both sides were made to roll up and strap up for open-air running when needed.

1 1/2 hrs down I-85 to the ramp...I never even considered leaving the top up for the 60-70 mph tow...I did stow all the snap on curtains inside the truck to keep them warm for easier attachment...

BTW..that top is still intact today and is available for sale...cut specifically for a '74, I wouldn't recommend for 80s or later models as there were some changes...COULD be altered, but again, I wouldn't recommend it...
IMGP08812.jpg


IMGP08772.jpg


Can't believe these the only pics I have...l don't have it, but Rick said he was looking for a new home for it last we talked...
 
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Do you know exactly when the changes were made? I have a 1980 and would be interested in the cover if it doesn't have to be modified. Thanks!

reelapeelin said:
Back in 1999 when I 1st set up my '74 one of the 1st things I did was have a top w/4 sided enclosure made...wasn't a matter of adding winter to the season...we were fishing 12 months anyway...was a matter of makin' it more tolerable...the back enclosure contains the heat from the propane disc (about the same output as a Mr Heater)...w/out the back, there's no containment and you'll have to be about 6" from the heater to feel it...across the front, the center and both sides were made to roll up and strap up for open-air running when needed.

1 1/2 hrs down I-85 to the ramp...I never even considered leaving the top up for the 60-70 mph tow...I did stow all the snap on curtains inside the truck to keep them warm for easier attachment...

BTW..that top is still intact today and is available for sale...cut specifically for a '74, I wouldn't recommend for 80s or later models as there were some changes...COULD be altered, but again, I wouldn't recommend it...


Can't believe these the only pics I have...l don't have it, but Rick said he was looking for a new home for it last we talked...
Click to expand...
 
cliffpaul2 said:
Do you know exactly when the changes were made? I have a 1980 and would be interested in the cover if it doesn't have to be modified. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I think your '80 was AFTER the change...easy way to tell; look at yours just aft of where the side windshield angles down to the top of the gunwale...I think on yours the fiberglass continues on the same angle like my '84...look at same place on pic of the '74...the fiberglass goes flat our from under the side windshield and the side curtains are cut to follow that contour...look closely at the pictures above aft of the side windows...
 
Thanks Reel

reelapeelin said:
Back in 1999 when I 1st set up my '74 one of the 1st things I did was have a top w/4 sided enclosure made...wasn't a matter of adding winter to the season...we were fishing 12 months anyway...was a matter of makin' it more tolerable...the back enclosure contains the heat from the propane disc (about the same output as a Mr Heater)...w/out the back, there's no containment and you'll have to be about 6" from the heater to feel it...across the front, the center and both sides were made to roll up and strap up for open-air running when needed.

1 1/2 hrs down I-85 to the ramp...I never even considered leaving the top up for the 60-70 mph tow...I did stow all the snap on curtains inside the truck to keep them warm for easier attachment...

BTW..that top is still intact today and is available for sale...cut specifically for a '74, I wouldn't recommend for 80s or later models as there were some changes...COULD be altered, but again, I wouldn't recommend it...
IMGP08812.jpg


IMGP08772.jpg


Can't believe these the only pics I have...l don't have it, but Rick said he was looking for a new home for it last we talked...
Click to expand...

I love this site. Just the other day I was wishing I had a picture of your old / my new bimini in action so I could post it and offer it up for sale. Next thing you know, there it is and your trying to sell it for me!

So anyone interested? PM me. the price will be right.
 
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You're right~

Perfect explanation of the difference between the 70's and 80's models! You're right, the fiberglass on my 1980 drops down to the gunnel an inch or so from where the windshield begins. Your top definitely wouldn't be a perfect fit for my boat. Thanks a lot for your help.

reelapeelin said:
I think your '80 was AFTER the change...easy way to tell; look at yours just aft of where the side windshield angles down to the top of the gunwale...I think on yours the fiberglass continues on the same angle like my '84...look at same place on pic of the '74...the fiberglass goes flat our from under the side windshield and the side curtains are cut to follow that contour...look closely at the pictures above aft of the side windows...
Click to expand...
 
cliffpaul2 said:
Perfect explanation of the difference between the 70's and 80's models! You're right, the fiberglass on my 1980 drops down to the gunnel an inch or so from where the windshield begins. Your top definitely wouldn't be a perfect fit for my boat. Thanks a lot for your help.
Click to expand...

It COULD be done..a decent top shop could make snap-in panels that would make up the difference...and honestly one wouldn't even notice it visually...and I bet you'd get a pretty good price from Rick on that top, too...Blue Runner made one work off Francos V20....and BR's got a V21...so all things are possible...:party:
 
It ain't perfect.....but all I had to do was add snaps to the side curtains to match the contour of the rounded V21 side windshields and a few on the gunnels. Used it for 4 or 5 years like that.

I had it modified it last year b/c the snaps in the rear corners wanted to come unbuttoned. Basically I has a sleeve sewn in with about a 1' long piece of flat aluminum. Hole in the middel for a strap that goes around the aluminum and lets me cinch it down to an eyelet on the gunnel. The flat aluminum in the sleeve distributes the stress of the strap accross the whole dea....takes the pressure off the snaps and works beautifully. I engineered it myself and stood over the shoulder of the canvas man supervising as he did it. :beer:

Before I couldn't use it without the rear curtain....now that isn't a problem.
 
Since I do not have pictures to show what I am talking about (I know, I'm slack) I edited the following pic to show the top before the latest mod. The red circle is there to show where I had a hard time keeping the snaps snapped....the blue rectangle is the "sleeve" with the aluminum bar in it and the black rectangle is the strap that pulls down on the bar inside the sleeve and connects to the gunnel - releasing the pressure on the snaps. Sleeve is sewn into the inside....by the way...so none of it shows .


Top_zps6e30c762.jpg
 
What a gorgeous boat. Nice work!

I have a very old canvas enclosure. The zippers are in really rough shape (missing teeth in key spots/ torn away from the canvas in some places.) I'm trying to figure out a way to rig it without huge cost. Wondering if I can use some super adhesive and velcro to get a few more years out of it.
 
Jeb said:
What a gorgeous boat. Nice work!

I have a very old canvas enclosure. The zippers are in really rough shape (missing teeth in key spots/ torn away from the canvas in some places.) I'm trying to figure out a way to rig it without huge cost. Wondering if I can use some super adhesive and velcro to get a few more years out of it.
Click to expand...

I was able to get my zippers replaced by a local canvas shop for $75, so it may not be as expensive as you think.
 
Jeb,
Send me a photo of what you need fixed/replaced.
I'm getting tight on time but might be able to replace those zippers.
The cost will depend on how much is involved in replacing the zippers.
I just finished doing a job on a rear drop panel for a 23' Steigcraft.
Here is a picture of a before and after the panel replacement.



If you want you can send me pictures at pingmarinecanvas@gmail.com
The canvas work is a part time job that just seems to keep growing.
 
Wow. Just saw this. Thanks. I'll post pics asap.

I was wondering about just using a twist fastener kit instead of a zipper system. Seems like it would be easy enough.

turn%20button%20kit.jpg
 
not proud of it, but this was my solution when my zippers cracked up a couple of years ago. tie wraps every 8-10 inches.

i put the curtains up at christmas and take them down memorial day. i was going to have new zippers installed, but guy at top shop said sunbrella was too thin.

the top is about 24 years old and the curtains about 22, so i got my moneys worth.


 
Jeb,

You could use the twisty fasteners. You would have to mark them then cut the holes out with a razor knife. The punch tool to put the twisty rings in is $300 +. I don't have one but I wish I did as they come in handy. The punch tool is less $$ but still not worth purchasing if you don't have a need for it all the time.
 
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