First V20 and its a project.

Well, I was really hoping it was not going to be to bad, but the transom had some bugs in it and have made food out of about the first 4-6 inches of transom. After that though it is solid as a rock. I was thinking I could use the transom restore stuff but there is no way to dry it enough to make it work. I have never done a transom. Do you hollow out the shell and replace all the wood and seal it back together? Ideas?
 
GillV20 said:
Well, I was really hoping it was not going to be to bad, but the transom had some bugs in it and have made food out of about the first 4-6 inches of transom. After that though it is solid as a rock. I was thinking I could use the transom restore stuff but there is no way to dry it enough to make it work. I have never done a transom. Do you hollow out the shell and replace all the wood and seal it back together? Ideas?
Click to expand...

Several ways to replace transom;

Hollow out and POUR

Remove skin from outside and replace wood

Remove skin from INSIDE and replace wood

We've seen all 3 here and depending on your skills, all are viable ways to go and fully expect a good result...search this forum for transom rebuilds and look here:

http://www.classicseacraft.com/

Lots of tranny replacements and rebuilds here...:clap:

It may be tempting to replace only the rotted part, unfortunately it needs to be ALL redone...
 
As I said in my first post, mine was strong and just barely flexed. But when I took it apart it was trashed. I was very surprised it felt that strong being so rotted mine had the bugs all in it also.
 

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Ok, well....given a little time to think about this. I am really leaning toward replacing the transom. I think the easiest way for me is to remove the outside. This way I only have to prop the cap up a little in the rear instead of pulling the whole thing. I am going to do some exploratory work on the transom this weekend and see to what extent the damage is. But if it is as bad as I suspect I will be replacing the whole thing. If I am going to do this.... I have heard these hulls do not work well with out drives....true?
 
GillV20 said:
I have heard these hulls do not work well with out drives....true?
Click to expand...

I know some people have a strong preference to outboards vs I/O's for space considerations and other reasons but I have never heard anybody complain about any kind of handling or performance issue because of an I/O.....somebody may chime in and contradict me of course.
 
Yep, it's bad. So much for wishful thinking. So now the cap I might as well take off as I will be rewiring the wreck too. How hard is this to do. I know there are about 300 screws holding the top to the bottom behind the rub rail, then I have the fuel tank line, so what all am I forgetting?
 
GillV20 said:
Yep, it's bad. So much for wishful thinking. So now the cap I might as well take off as I will be rewiring the wreck too. How hard is this to do. I know there are about 300 screws holding the top to the bottom behind the rub rail, then I have the fuel tank line, so what all am I forgetting?
Click to expand...
If your pulling the cap then I would replace the transom from the inside. If you replace from the you will still have the factory strength integrity of the outer skin. This opinion comes from others I've talked to. You might also find stringer rot towards the transom also
 
I pulled my cap about 3 weeks ago. Like you said, fuel lines (including vent line), wire going from tank to fill cap, bilge hoses, thru hulls in the transom.

I lodged a board in the front through one of my floor hatches (center console) rather than tie to that front cleat. Mine weighs around 400 pounds. I used an excavator, came right off. There is a putty they used to seat the cap to the stringers but there was no adhesion to speak of between the stringers and deck.

Project start to cap being off in the air took around 4 hours.

I started with a transom replacement after my "solid" transom leaked water when I installed a new GPS and found my stringers were shot.
 
Kracker Jack's RIGHT about recoring the tranny from the inside if yer pullin' the cap, structurally AND cosmetically...before you pull it, walk around on the foredeck ahead of the windshield to see if any soft spots up there...if so, that fix is much easier w/cap off and flipped over...
 
I posted some pics on a thread I started "Here she is" that has a couple of pictures pulling the cap off. Give you an idea of what you will see if you decide to go that route.
 
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