evinrude 135hp not starting HELP

Kracker Jack

Kracker Jack

God
So I'm getting the 135 ready to go on the boat. It sat for about 5 months and some how got water in the lower carb, it only showed traces of water in one cylinder. I evacuated the moisture took the carbs off and gave them a good cleaning. I put my carbs on today and put battery and gas to it. I first did my spark check and all 4 were firing HOT, i then compression checked and all 4 are showing exactly 150 psi ( my other gauge 5 months ago showed 130 on all 4 so one of my gauges is wrong) regardless all cylinders are even. But when I try to start it she's not firing!!!! So I pulled the plugs and 3 were wet with gas and one was dry as a bone. I figured I had an issue with that barrel on the carbs so I pulled the carbs and checked and she's clean as a whistle. I still don't understand why she's not firing on the other 3 cylinders that have fuel and fire!!!! On the cylinder that's dry, is the reed valves stuck? All advice is welcome. :head:
 
phatdaddy said:
is the dry plug cyl the one that had the water in it?
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No not the same one. If looking at the plugs the one that had water was bottom left, the one that's dry is top right on a whole different bank! I have everything needed on the other three cylinders (compression,fuel,spark) why aren't they hitting? I'm running a nongap style plug and its always run good with those, did she originally run a gapped prong plug?
 
Kracker Jack said:
No not the same one. If looking at the plugs the one that had water was bottom left, the one that's dry is top right on a whole different bank! I have everything needed on the other three cylinders (compression,fuel,spark) why aren't they hitting? I'm running a nongap style plug and its always run good with those, did she originally run a gapped prong plug?
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I may be wrong, one of our experts can say for sure, but I believe that the original plugs for your engine were surface gap plugs (non-gapped plugs).

As for your non firing... The dry cylinder may be from bad reed valves or no gas getting to your carb. Loosen the drain screw at the bottom of the bowl and see if gas drains out. If it does then it's probably a bad or broken reed. Either way you're going to have to remove the carb, so look at the reed block when you do and if it's a broken reed you'll know it in seconds.

As to the other cylinders not firing, it's a bit of a mystery...but I'd look carefully at your flywheel. There's a key between the flywheel and the crankshaft that keeps the flywheel in the proper position to initiate the spark for the plugs. If that key has sheared and allowed the flywheel to turn on the crankshaft then your timing is off and your engine won't start.. So if it were me that would be my first place to look.
 
Destroyer said:
I may be wrong, one of our experts can say for sure, but I believe that the original plugs for your engine were surface gap plugs (non-gapped plugs).

As for your non firing... The dry cylinder may be from bad reed valves or no gas getting to your carb. Loosen the drain screw at the bottom of the bowl and see if gas drains out. If it does then it's probably a bad or broken reed. Either way you're going to have to remove the carb, so look at the reed block when you do and if it's a broken reed you'll know it in seconds.

As to the other cylinders not firing, it's a bit of a mystery...but I'd look carefully at your flywheel. There's a key between the flywheel and the crankshaft that keeps the flywheel in the proper position to initiate the spark for the plugs. If that key has sheared and allowed the flywheel to turn on the crankshaft then your timing is off and your engine won't start.. So if it were me that would be my first place to look.
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And like I thought, I always ran surface gap plugs. I was just curious because I didnt think they made them back then.

How do you check timing? LOL!!! that may be it. It ran perfect 5 months ago.

Gas is getting to the carb. Its actually bleeding fuel out of the top carb. I took the carbs off twice today just to make sure there was no blockage. I pulled the bowl drain on that side and gas drained out.

There is not a broken reed I checked when I pulled the carb the second time. ones I looked at are actaully in there moving from what i can see

The water did not sit in the motor for 5 months. The water got in the motor when I put it in the back of my truck for like 4 days and water some how made it in the carb the cowel some how was barely opened:cen:
 
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I have by passed the neutral safety she has excellent spark. Would all the plugs be bad? I realize I still have a dry cylinder issuer. The plugs are firing when tested on head bolt why not when in the cylinder.
 
Kracker Jack said:
I have by passed the neutral safety she has excellent spark. Would all the plugs be bad? I realize I still have a dry cylinder issuer. The plugs are firing when tested on head bolt why not when in the cylinder.
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I have a friend that just had the same problem with an older Evinrude. Turns out he did not have enough of a charge in the battery to crank engine to spark with plugs in. He took the battery out of his car and hooked it up and voila......started right up. Funny thing is that when he hooked up the boat battery again, it started. The best we could figure out was that he had a little corrosion somewhere on the connections and by disconnecting his battery, he seemed to have cleaned it. Not sure if this is what is wrong with yours but definitely worth a look. The motor needs a certain amount of power to send spark to plugs when plugs are in the motor. Very strange...:head:
 
The spark come from the magnets on the flywheel passing by the coil on the stator. As long as your engine is turning over at a reasonable speed you should have spark.
As to your question about how do you time your engine, there are timing marks on the top of your flywheel and a pointer right at the front of your engine.
I'd still pull your flywheel and look at the woodruff key on the crankshaft to make sure it hasen't sheared. If it has that engine will never start. The whole thing shouldn't take but 15 minutes, start to finish. (Assuming you have the proper tools)
 
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