Deck coating??

macojoe

macojoe

Administrator
After getting sticker price of $800 to $900 :o to LineX the deck of the boat,

I want to know,

What is the very best paint or epoxy that I can do myself ??
 
IF ANY OF YOU USE THIS STUFF PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS,IM ALSO IN NEED OF SOME NON SKID PUT BACK ON MY DECK
 
I talked to MJ today about that Durabak stuff. I think that's the way he's going to go. Looks like good stuff to me.
MJ's gonna have lots of new pics to post this spring. ;D
 
Yes I am going to do it!!

But I want a vote, I need to pick a color, light grey or cream color??

What say everyone??
 
Mocojoe,

I think light gray would look nice. Have you considered a good epoxy paint with some fine non-skid additive?

Scott
 
Yea I considered it for 2 min and then just want to have to do this once!! so money aside I wanted something good!!

I am starting a color thread so we can vote on it!!
 
Mj, Why not just do the Interlux Brightside with the skid stuff mixed in it? Like $30 a quart and $10 for the non skid can, roll it or brush it with the brushing reducer? If you prep it good no need for primer, straight to old gelcoat. Or new gelcoat $50 to $60 with non skid stuff. But I guess its pretty cool up there yet. On the color tan is my vote.
 
HEY MAKO I JUST ORDERED DURABAK COATING FOR THE DECK OF MY BOAT. I ORDERED THE NEW SAND COLOR. SHOULD I GO RIGHT OVER THE SEAM IN MY FUEL TANK HATCH? WHAT DO YOU THINK? THANKS.
 
I ordered mine todat, Light Gray.

I am hopeing it is as good as they say!! I asked them for instructions as to prep. I want to no if I can paint right over the paint in my boat right now?? I no I have to sand some to get all the lose stuff out and then clean with thinner first, but do you have to remove all paint to clean fiberglass??

With any luck I will be painting in a couple of weeks!!
 
Got the paint today!!! ;D They send you the roller, paint, can opener, and Accelerator if the temp is below 59*

Still not sure that I have to remove all the paint before I use this stuff??
 
MOST TIMES YOU NEED TO SAND THE LOOSE STUFF OFF, SCUFF IT ALL OVER, WIPE IT DOWN ( ACETONE WORKS WELL) IT SHOULD SAY IF YOU HACE TO USE A PRIMER OR NOT AND THEN JUST PAINT IT.
JUST SO YOU KNOW, IT'S 86 AND A LIGHT BREEZE HERE TODAY
 
Im wif Franco...that sounds right on the prep work....I bet that crap would just about stick to rusty metal...

Oh 78 and a south 5-10 here. ;D
 
MJ-

A power washer would make easy work of any loose paint for you. scuff up whats left, wipe down and paint away.

Victore - I would remove the tank hatch and paint it separately.
If not, you will end up with unsupported gaps under the coating at the hatch seams. Plus, if you ever have to open that hatch, you wont have to cut and ruin the coating!
 
GOOD FOLLOW UP ON THE HATCH, BY THE WAY, dab a few small drops of3M 5200 SEALER ON THE LEDGE THAT SUPPORTS THE HATCH BEFORE SCREWING IT BACK DOWN. IT HOLDS IT IN PLACE LIKE A CHAMP
 
Yes I was talking to CB and he agrees with us!! I will just clean sand and wipe with Xylene as stated in the instructions.
It also says that you can paint, painted meteal if the paint is good.

Looks like the beging of next week will be nice out?? I will do all the prep then. And then see when I have time to do the rest??
Wife going for operation next week will be there for 6 to 7 days then maybe rehab?? So i have to work around that.

I will have pleanty of pic's that for sure!! And CB is coming to do the pulpit with me next week!!
 
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