crack from the inside

jedvandale

New member
Here is a pic of the crack along my strake from the access hole I cut in the gas tank hold. Note the sunlight streaming through (not good)! How many layers of what type and how far out, any thoughts?
 

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thats a major structural repair......that needs a big footprint from both sides of the hull....at least a 12:1 ratio scarf each side, if not more....go as for as you can on the tapered scarf in all directions.....the layering depends on the original thickness....you want to make it the same thickness........I would use multiple layers of either 12oz or 17 oz 0/90 biaxial glass without matt......and use epoxy for the best secondary bond strength......scarf from the inside first and build the thickness back to original....then do the outside and build it back to the same original thickness or slightly under by a few thousands to allow for fairing....then fair and paint or gelcoat...
 
RR, The hull thickness appears to be about 3/8. 12:1 would be 36/8 or 4 1/2 inches. Are you saying to grind from 0 to 3/16 inch into the hull over 4 1/2 inches on the inside and fill with cloth and repeat on the outside? In other words, half the thickness in from each side? As it will not show inside i was under the impression I could overlay the whole area (8-12 inches out from crack) to around 3/8 or 1/2 thick and then epoxy putty from the outside. Will this not be strong enough? I appreciate all the help. Also I'm having trouble finding pics of a step by step repair. Any one have a decent link?
Thanks as always
 
Normally, a hole on a single skin (non-cored) hull can be fixed from one side....the difficulty in this repair is the fact that a structural member is involved, ie, the strake....I would feel more comfortable going from the inside and then finishing from the outside....so maybe go a little more than halfway on the bevel and finish on the other side..the double bevel method is normally used on cored hulls.....and don't bondo the crap out of it either....use glass as far as you can go and only use epoxy putty for fairing at the very end......its a tricky repair, hence I mentioned using the help of the guys on BBC as they have a designer on board to give structural advice.......http://forums.bateau2.com/
for the forum and....http://boatbuildercentral.com/
for materials and How To's...that being said, the approach will be the same as I mentioned.....the bevel size you are considering is correct...maybe even take it a little wider....but the "I just glassed the sh+t out of it) is not a good rule to go by. The hull is designed and made to flex as a continuous fiber.....if you glass the sh+t out of it in one spot, your hull will flex differently in that area and may even cause a problem down the road....picture taking a yard stick and holding it on one end and flexing on the other...you see it bend to a certain extent...now grab the yard stick in the middle and try and bend the end....it will react much differently....and thats what will happen if you just build up one area like that...you want to bring it back to its original conformity whenever possible.

You can also go on West Systems web site as they have numerous repair manuals on-line that you can download including a video...Section 4 of the "Fiberglass boat repair and maintenence" manual has some techniques on how to grind out the scarf and how to prep the area and lay back the patches. You can also contact them via email and they normally call you back to discuss your problem...they are very good with customer service like that

But as Macrenovations mentioned, you need to open the glass up and get some good pictures to post....you need to see how far that internal damage really goes as all the crack must be removed before the hole can be repaired....don't rush this...get comfortable with all the information and techniqes as you can before laying and glass.....you will do a much better job on it in the long run...
 
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