Cosmetic repairs

Pipe_Dream

Pipe_Dream

God
Hello, again! I recently asked for some advice on a new outboard for my 1983 V20 Steplift Cuddy. Well, since I am looking at making her run like new, I thought I would look into making her look like new, too. The hull is sound, but I was thinking of having new paint inside and out including repairs of minor dings and so on, replacing the rub rail and the gunwale fishing rod cutouts as they look awful. The paint is completely bleached out and chalky. Does anyone have any experience getting a V20 basically restored? Am I going to sink way too much money into a boat that I would not be able to recover if I sold her? Great forum, by the way!
 
Welcome Pipe Dream,

Keep reading and searching the site for how to answers.

Don't do a restoration for resale, unless you love doing such "work". You will never get your time or money back on a resale. It may be worth it - for your own personal use, depending on the condition of the hull,your abilities, access to materials, tools, worksite and available time. Your call. 8)
 
What Seakindly said.
Basically, it's going to have to be your call not knowing what you're into the boat for now and all. There are very few boats that can or should be looked at from a resale perspective unless you got the thing for next to nothing and are able to turn it around right away for a profit. So, most of us do it because we love what we do. A lot of what you're asking about (cosmetics) can be corrected with minimal dollar output. Takes more elbow grease than anything else. Just ask Macojoe. The guy's a slave to cosmetics on his boat ;D He doesn't want to be the guy down at the yacht club that has the chalked out hull. ::) ;D
A little gelcoat repair, a little wax, and some paint and you'll have her looking good in no time. There's really not a lot of science to that stuff. When you get to the rub rail, have a couple of friends and a 30 pack to help and start lifting weights now to get yourself ready and in shape. ;D If you don't get it pulled tight, it'll look like crap. That is unless you're going to stay with the aluminum strip like it currently has.
All in all, I'd say you're not going to be spending so much that you'll get hurt come selling time. One boat salesman once told me that fresh bottom paint (if it has a painted bottom) and a good cleaning and waxing will sell a boat every time. Small investment. If you really are thinking of selling it in the near future, I would hold off on that new motor purchase though. That's where you'll get hurt and not be able to get your money back. When I sold my last boat, I let it go with a brand new trailer that I had just bought for close to $3700.00 The sale, with the new trailer, only got me about $1500.00 more than I could have sold it for with the old trailer. Should have sold them separately but I just wanted to do it quickly.
Well, best of luck. Keep a good supply of cold beers close by, and have fun.

And don't forget, if you need detailing tips, Macojoe's the guy! 8)
 
Pipe_Dream - Do you have paint on your hull or gelcoat?

If it's the original gelcoat and chalked out . . . . try wet sanding it, then use a polishing compound, and add a few coats of wax to the hull. These three steps will almost definitely make your boat shine like new.

Paint doesn't usually get chaulky, but if someone painted the hull at one point . . . . you're in for a serious project.
 
I am getting quotes for having the dings and scratches repaired, and having awlgrip applied - I do not have the time or patience to do this myself. It's way beyond polishing and waxing. Fortunately, I have a minimal present investment in the boat. The first quote was way over the top, but the second looked a lot better and is at one of my choices for re-powering. So, for the price of a new motor, plus $X for the refit, I'll have a boat that hopefully looks and runs like new for a lot less than a new boat. And I do plan on keeping her for the next 5-10 years until I might afford my dreamboat, but then again the V20 is one great boat!
 
I would stick with matching the original colors.

Although I prefer the very light greys of the newer v20/21s, the light tan is also a good choice for a deck (stays cool and is easy on the eyes-low reflectivety).

If you switch to grey,for example, it will look great at first, but as time goes on little scratches and chips will reveal the tan. Matching the color will make the inevitable wear and tear much less noticeable.
 
Thanks, Big, but this thing is way beyond wet sanding! It used to be a construction boat, that is it was used to transport workers and materials to an island development. Sometime I'll tell the whole story -- it's a good one! I'm also going to do before and after pics.
 
lost post from yesterday:

PD, Lookin forward to it! Those kinds of restoration stories/pics really warm my icy heart.
 
She is still in the body shop but work is progressing. The hull has been repaired and painted, and the work is now focused on the deck and interior spaces. I hope to see her move from the body shop next week into the engine bay! I did change the color from the original white to a sort of tan color, similar to what you see on the new Grady White boats. The deck is remaining what they call sand color. Next comes the mounting of a new Yamaha 200 hp HPDI. Yeeehaaaaa!!!
 
Please post some photos in the gallery along the way.
I am considering doing the same thing you're doing.
Rico
 
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