carb. rebuild

P

phester

God
my motor,150 Johnson oceanrunner, started to run a bit rough toward the end of last season. This was only at a troll speed,in fact it stalled a couple of times. Higher speeds and WOT it's fine.Does anybody know the ins and outs or a couple of good pointers before I proceed. My brother used to be a motorcycle mech. for Kawasaki and Yamaha [inluding jetskis]so between his know how and a factory manual it shouldn't be difficult. I don't think I would take on this job myself.....the mechanic I usually deal with gets 125.00 per carb, parts extra, almost a 1000.00 to rebuild???? Insane
 
Well it may be carbs, but I would try something different first!!
The problem wit Lg motors is they hate to troll!! They carbon up like hell and then the performance drops off!!

I would try a Decarb first, and then after that run Carbon Gaurd with every tank.

I like to spray the decarb in the night before I am going out, then when I hit the water open her up and blow all the crap out!!

I run a 175 Yamaha and they are know for carbon build up, I decarb once a year and use carbon guard every other tank. works for me.
 
Rebuilding carbs really isnt that difficult as long as you have a factory manual. Buy the factory rebuild kits that come with the float instead of the off brand kits. You will also need a can of decarb. I used Berrymans, they sell it buy the aerosol can or in a large can for dunking parts, I bought the aerosol can. You will also need an air compressor or a can of compressed air for blowing out all the orifices after soaking them in carb cleaner. The hardest part of rebuilding carbs is the float adjustment and the link and synch procedure when the carbs are put back onto the block. In the manual there should be a procedure for the link and synch. Hope this helps.
 
Phes I would do the decarb routine MJ is talking about before I would get into the carb routine. Unless you have already done that.
I have the 99 115 johnson and I was having trouble getting to proper max rpm when I first bought the boat from Fillet1 . I bought the stuff I needed for a full decarb, did it the right way and ran a special fuel conditioner cleaner on the heavy side of the mix requirement, ran it like MJ said and it was like I white fogged the neighborhood for awhile. When I was done I put new plugs in and took it to the ocean and I was running 5600-5700 rpm no problem. Previously I was told I needed a carb rebuild by a mechanic ::) I think the stuff I have been using since is called Sea Foam to keep it from carb ing up again and keeping the carbs clean, recommended highly by several boat people and a few guys on this site
 
hey Phes rebuilding them most likely won't fix the problem. The air jets are bad about getting stopped up and that will cause them to idle rough or none at all. take an air hose and blow out the 3 air jets that should fix your problem. i do mine every spring and then about the mid to end of summer.
 
thanks fellas ,yeah, I'm gonna monkey around w/ it befor I pull the trigger on a rebuild,Skools those pics you're talking about just might do the trick
 
Phester, I agree with doing the de-carb before doing anything else. IMHO, Carbon buildup causes alot of problems including low compression etc. I use seafoam and add it to 3/4 gallon of gas in a small (3gallon) external gas tank. If you go to Iboats forum website (www.iboats.com) and do a search on decarb you will see the processes in detail. There are two Seafoam decarb products. One is a spray in the cylinders I think named Deep Creep or whatever and another is just "Seafoam" that gets added to 3/4 gallon of gas and running the engine using the mixture or vice-versa. Don't do it in your driveway unless you like cleaning up a horrendus black mess or explaining to the fireman that your boat isn't on fire. I do it on the water on a remote beach or some other isolated location. After de-carbing, replace the spark plugs. I have a home made spark checker that I use to check that the spark on my Yammie can jump 7/16". (Yammie spec.) There is a thread on Iboats forum that describes the homemade spark checker. I wouldn't start with the carbs until after the above has been done. I hope this helps!!

Ed G.
 
here's the pictures
This is one of the carbs off a 225

Carb002.jpg


these are the high / low jets clean them out. i take them out usually and clean in laquer thinner or just blow air in them to keep open. just don't mix them up and make sure all carbs have the same jet numbers. these are as follows upper is intermediate orifice #47 and lower is idle air orifice #34 in this case

Carb004.jpg


Under this is the main fuel jet take to cap out and fuel should run out there is a number 62D or 63D jet in them usually. these are know as the High speed orifice #62D in this case

Carb003.jpg


this is the air passage port cover can remove it and clean that too it will get stopped up too.

Carb001.jpg


can open the bowl area / float chamber. this has the float, needle, and seat.

Carb005.jpg


you can do these with out needing a rebuild kit.just be careful opening the covers without hurting the gaskets. Hope this helps
 
Crusher,

I live on New Rd, off of Spring Valley Rd. between Rt 313 (Swamp) and Pebble Hill Rd. Been there for 24 yrs. My V20 is in the driveway.

Geekie1
 
If you are going to go through the trouble of removing the carbs and disassembling the jets and float bowl, why not just clean them and rebuild them with new gaskets, needle, seat, and float. The kits are like $25 each. ???
 
i would just clean the 2 smaller jets first with air plus to rebuild 6 of them is $150 for the kits and to clean is just FREE spare time.
 
ok here's the orifice info

ORIFICE

Part# 0328560
ORIFICE, #47, 150 HP Early Production with 433342 or 433343 Stamped on Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0334568
ORIFICE, #39, 150 HP Late Production with 435528 or 435529 Stamped On Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0317473
ORIFICE, #30, 175 HP

IDLE AIR ORIFICE

Part# 0323703
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #36, 150 HP Early Production with 433342 or 433343 Stamped on Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0325827
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #44, 150 HP Late Production with 435528 or 435529 Stamped On Carburetor. These Assemblies and Related Parts Must Be Used Together.

Part# 0327745
ORIFICE, Idle air bleed, #40, 175 HP


HIGH SPEED ORIFICE
Part# 0322907
ORIFICE, High speed, #57D, 150 HP

Part# 0328546
ORIFICE, High speed, #72D, 175 HP


If you notice the bottom set are 175 HP the 175 that yr was the exact same motor as your just different carb body's and orifices if you find a used set of 175 HP carbs on ebay you can change them and make yours a 175 HP. Before i were to rebuild the stock set i'd find a 175 set and put them on.
 
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