Cap is off

I tried four times to upload pics. Not happening. Kracker my stringers are not attached either. Yet they are cut perfectly to match the transom curve. Do i need to leave this last layer in the transom for lifting and moving the boat or can i remove it?
 
Ok I am bored. Rest of the plywood is coming out. Also cut the lifewell off the bottom of the cap. It has a half inch of either insulation or a composite material around it. So it might actually be an insulated fishbox and not a livewell.
 
The outside skin on my boat was thick enough that if you want to run an eyelet thru the glass you could to lift it. When my boat was gutted me and my buddy could lift the back of the boat off the trailer like it was nothing. Rip it out!!!! Lol!!!
 
Had to take a break to run mom to the store to get stuff to fry the mullet I caught yesterday. So far I have all the plywood off the starboard side, all but a skin in the middle, and half off the port side. Next will be cleaning it up with a cup wire wheel on my side grinder. Also it must matter having the stringers tied correctly to the transom. When i cut the glass skin off i cut a "u" around the stringers. On the starboard side i pulled the tabbing off the stringer with no effort. It was already broke. Port side transom/stringer tabbing is still solid. Kracker you did your transom core all in one piece didn't you? Due to my bracket design, I am only installing one piece of marine ply in the transom and would like to do it in one piece if possible for the most strength. I know you did two layers, but did you cut each layer into pieces?
So far all the core has been wet. It has been abouy four or six months since I removed the outboard and swim platform.
 
Also got a few questions. Is it worth the effort to build a cradle for the boat to avoid a hook in the hull?

And I want to do a transom door. Would one layer of plywood provide enough strength to allow this. I will build knees to help with stability. Also the transom is getting closed off. UNLESS, I use the existing motor slot as a transom door and build a closure that slides in and out for access and to keep water out?
 
Got the bulk of the transom plywood out. Whats left is skin in places. Tried to upload pic but all I get is invalid post specified. Not sure if its my phone. Kracker I was able to lift one corner of the transom off the trailer, which really surprised me. And i still have foam and stringers in it.
 
Why will you need only one layer of ply on your transom? Are you still extending your sringers into the bracket? I would hold off on doing anything with that transom door until you are in the final stages of your restoration. Really if your going to cut your splash well out then enclose all your transom except for a 20" width and have the bottom of the passage 25" above your keel and don't worry with a door.
 
Yes Tartuffe I am building what I call an outrigger bracket. I am buiding my normal stringer setup, but in the back, there will be sister stringers that extend out the back 30" and marry up to the main stringers for 66". The stringers extending out the transom will be the sides of my bracket. So I add a bottom, top, and figure out a mounting pad across the back. Then I have a flotation bracket. I am still glassing it off to the transom to spread weight. However wide the main stringers are will be my bracket width. Should provide enough flotation for my plan of twins in the future. But what I am truly gaining is 2' of back deck that was taken by the splashwell. That is what really has me excited.
 
how are you posting pictures?? from your computer or from photobucket or another site??
I using photobucket or other hosting site, open your pic, right click it and copy the thing that says Copy image URL then come here to your post and hit the icon that looks like 2 mountains and a sun, put the copyed address in the little window and hit submit, your done!!
if from your puter go to the bottom of this post and hit mange you attachement and follow the instructions.
 
MJ I have been posting some pics from my phone. I have not figured out how to photobucket on my phone. I can upload pics to photobucket but thats all I can do on my phone. So I just use the manage attachments bar which worked fine till yesterday. It does not work on the local fishing forum either?? So i think its a phone problem. Trying to figure out photobucket mobile.

Internet is off at the house so mobile is all I have now.
 
ok, well i am of no help, i have a regular flip phone and don't even use it for the net or anything, i don't even text!! :head:
 
I spent a while trying to decide on my bracket design. I wanted the most flotation yet also wanted the most for performance potential. I liked the Hemco brackets how they have a v bottom yet I like the stainless because of their flat bottom that swoops up. So I decided onba hybrid design. A 13" pad that then follows the bottom angle up. It is 3" off the bottom on the angled sides and 4 5/8" off the bottom at the keel to the pad. 4 5/8" is the height from the keel to the first strakes. Then I had to decide on how tall to make the bracket. Spare mentioned to make the tub as tall as possible. But it did not look right with the motor cut out. It looked out of proportion. UNTIL I slid a piece of plywood over the cutout. Then it looked good! The outside of the tape is my final bracket outline. Still have to decide whether to make it swoop up or not.
 

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most converts are closed transoms, so the plywood in the cut out is not a issue. as far as swooping, i would think you have to do it as when you give the boat gas on take off, the rear is going in the water, lots of drag there if no swoop. while planning the rear is going to go down some.
I have the SS Marine type bracket on both of my boats and they are great with the swoop, on the Ox its just a single and on the wellcraft it was the type with the platform, I took a 10 footer with the wellcraft and filled the boat with water. motor stayed up and running with all that weight!! the rear of the boat was in the water but the motor was able to stay 3 or so inches above to run, when the 2nd wave came it lifted the boat and motor was running and we manged to live.

Just somrthing to think about??
 
When I mentioned the plywood, I was meaning it was an illussion without it. Transom will be a closed transom. But I do not like the way the top of the transom angles up. I prefer it flat from side to side. So that means a little more cap modification. As is I am almost cutting the entire back of the cap off to accomplish what I want my boat to be.

I have sinned. I have been on Classic SeaCraft looking at bracket builds. Not the first home built bracket has any swoop. All leveled v bottoms. Everybody is building molds. I was thinking with my outriggered stringers I could glass a top, bottom, and a motor mount on and call it done. Wondering If i need to rethink that. I want to go wider with my bracket, but I do not think I can with trim tabs. As is fully submerged I have 700lbs of flotation minus the bracket weight. I think its around 400lbs flotation at rest. I decided against a full width platform.

MJ one thing I did notice was with my Merc being a 25" shaft she should be high.
 
BS, has built at least 3 and they have all been as you describe, he has done it on Seacrafts the one he did for his self and one other he did a 30" shaft, and WOW what a difference, the boat performed better then the other andthe motor is out of the water!! Mine are 25 and the motor sits close to the water all the time and is a bit scary at times. If I was to do it I would go with a 30" and V the bottom same as boat, now making the boat a 22 footer instead of a 20 footer. Trim tabs this way might be able to be mounted on the bracket?? as it will be the rear of the boat now?? I am just thinking not sure if its doable, I will ask BS tomorrow

Here is one he made
pic_035_Medium.jpg


Here is a thread of a build he did with pic from beginning to end came out great!
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=7630&highlight=bracket
 
His did come out good. But one thing I have noticed is how heavy they are built. This is because they are bolted to the boat. I know that the outrigger stringer bracket is a much simpler and more capable design. The bracket is literally part of the boat not a bolt on.
 
it was only about 100 pounds a little more, and gave 400 pounds of float. the stainless marine is 125#, and gives like 315# of float
 
I am thinking the outrigger bracket will weigh a little over 100lbs. Using marine ply for the stringers and motor mount. The rest will hopefully be divinycell as the rest is the float chamber. I am thinking about going even wider with my bracket. Wider to the point, that its over my trim tabs and the actuator itself will determine where the bracket stops. Trying to get a 48" wide chamber. Then that leaves me room for twin engines without modification. The engines really need to be on 34 1/2" centers. But I want them as wide apart as possible. But for now its getting the single 2.5L Merc. Unless I find another during tax time. :sly:
 
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