Calling all Merc Mechanics

I have a 94 Yamaha sitting in the yard doing the same thing? I have no idea why?? But I said to hell with it and hung a 175 Evinrude on the boat and will be parting out the Yamaha soon.
 
I have a 94 Yamaha sitting in the yard doing the same thing? I have no idea why?? But I said to hell with it and hung a 175 Evinrude on the boat and will be parting out the Yamaha soon.
 
MSBHAMMER said:
Great Pics. of the kids Randleman.  ;)
What year is the motor ?
Whats the asking price.
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Thanks Hammer, the two girls and the boy in orange are mine, other kid is a neighbor.

It is a 1999. Havent set a price yet.....
 
MSBHAMMER said:
Great Pics. of the kids Randleman.  ;)
What year is the motor ?
Whats the asking price.
Click to expand...


Thanks Hammer, the two girls and the boy in orange are mine, other kid is a neighbor.

It is a 1999. Havent set a price yet.....
 
I appreciate all the ideas guys.....we will solve this thing.


Skook's, I havent seen any dirt dobber signs, but that is something I will look for.

Ferm and Air, I am not sure that it is actually overheating, I will try the bad sensor theory too.
 
I appreciate all the ideas guys.....we will solve this thing.


Skook's, I havent seen any dirt dobber signs, but that is something I will look for.

Ferm and Air, I am not sure that it is actually overheating, I will try the bad sensor theory too.
 
the barb fitting is part of the idle air system, as the engine warms up, it allows more air into the intake trac to lean out the mixture, it should have one of the barbs connected to a hose taht runs to the front half of the engine, the other barb is left open.

Checking the sensors is a good starting point, its the ones with the tan/blue wire.
Go ahead and put a water pump in it, its regular mantance on a Merc, its the best starting point for figuring out whats wrong.
 
the barb fitting is part of the idle air system, as the engine warms up, it allows more air into the intake trac to lean out the mixture, it should have one of the barbs connected to a hose taht runs to the front half of the engine, the other barb is left open.

Checking the sensors is a good starting point, its the ones with the tan/blue wire.
Go ahead and put a water pump in it, its regular mantance on a Merc, its the best starting point for figuring out whats wrong.
 
This might be a dumb thought, but you said its an auto oiler that has been disconnected - I wonder if they disconnected everything including the low oil alarm?  

Usually there are different beeping patterns for overheat and low oil.  Find out which is which and go from there.  

Can you put you hand on the block without burning it after a few minutes?

I had a friend that burned up a 150 force. It had a good stream of water, but alarm started going off and he didn't know any better. The water coming from the pisser was hooooot and he kept gettin it till she died.

Good luck!  Nice pics - is that your service weapon  8) ;D

P.S. I know nothing about Mercs - never owned one so this is all hearsay, your honor.
 
This might be a dumb thought, but you said its an auto oiler that has been disconnected - I wonder if they disconnected everything including the low oil alarm?  

Usually there are different beeping patterns for overheat and low oil.  Find out which is which and go from there.  

Can you put you hand on the block without burning it after a few minutes?

I had a friend that burned up a 150 force. It had a good stream of water, but alarm started going off and he didn't know any better. The water coming from the pisser was hooooot and he kept gettin it till she died.

Good luck!  Nice pics - is that your service weapon  8) ;D

P.S. I know nothing about Mercs - never owned one so this is all hearsay, your honor.
 
I am going to check all this stuff.

I bought a waterpump kit 2day, I've never done one but I know yous guys will guide me.

Also going to check the poppet valve.

Yep, we carry .177 cal here.
 
I am going to check all this stuff.

I bought a waterpump kit 2day, I've never done one but I know yous guys will guide me.

Also going to check the poppet valve.

Yep, we carry .177 cal here.
 
The water coming out of the pissers should be warm, this means it has picked up heat within the engine and carried it out.  If it's hot, that means the water is spending too much time in the engine/there isn't enough flow.  This is a sign of a bad water pump.  If the water is cool, but the engine is hot, this means the water is bypassing the engine and just going through the manifolds.  This indicates a stuck thermostat.  If the pee stream is cold and the engine is cold, this indicates a thermostat that has failed open. The fact that you said the engine is loder than normal also indicates a lack of water flow and now I can say with some confidence that your pump is bad.
 
The water coming out of the pissers should be warm, this means it has picked up heat within the engine and carried it out.  If it's hot, that means the water is spending too much time in the engine/there isn't enough flow.  This is a sign of a bad water pump.  If the water is cool, but the engine is hot, this means the water is bypassing the engine and just going through the manifolds.  This indicates a stuck thermostat.  If the pee stream is cold and the engine is cold, this indicates a thermostat that has failed open. The fact that you said the engine is loder than normal also indicates a lack of water flow and now I can say with some confidence that your pump is bad.
 
just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.
 
just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.
 
spareparts said:
just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, several people have told me that getting the shift shaft correct is the hardest part of a waterpump job, but no one offered any advise.
 
spareparts said:
just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, several people have told me that getting the shift shaft correct is the hardest part of a waterpump job, but no one offered any advise.
 
think about the shift shaft in clock positions( looking over head after you pull the lower unit). 12 is fwd, 10:30 is neutral, 9 is reverse. 1 thru 8 will appear as neutral, but its not. Keeping it in fwd( and the controll box) will allow you to rotate the propshaft to spin the driveshaft to help puttuing the housing on the impeller and to align the driveshaft splines when you put it back on. Put a little grease on the splines( driveshaft and shift shaft when reassembling) and get someone to help you hold it up while your getting everything aligned, it also helps to have the engine trimmmed down so everthing aligns correcetly. After you get a nut on it, pull it up a little( so the shfit shaft slines are ingaged) and get your helper to shift the mototr from fwd, neutral and back to reverse while you're spinning the prop by hand, it should lock in fwd one direction, freewheel in neutral, and lock in revers. Better to find out now if the shifting is off rather than wait for you to get all the nuts and bolts tight. If the shifting isn't correct, drop the lower unit and start over( remember to put the shifter back in fwd before your helper gets out of the boat)
 
think about the shift shaft in clock positions( looking over head after you pull the lower unit). 12 is fwd, 10:30 is neutral, 9 is reverse. 1 thru 8 will appear as neutral, but its not. Keeping it in fwd( and the controll box) will allow you to rotate the propshaft to spin the driveshaft to help puttuing the housing on the impeller and to align the driveshaft splines when you put it back on. Put a little grease on the splines( driveshaft and shift shaft when reassembling) and get someone to help you hold it up while your getting everything aligned, it also helps to have the engine trimmmed down so everthing aligns correcetly. After you get a nut on it, pull it up a little( so the shfit shaft slines are ingaged) and get your helper to shift the mototr from fwd, neutral and back to reverse while you're spinning the prop by hand, it should lock in fwd one direction, freewheel in neutral, and lock in revers. Better to find out now if the shifting is off rather than wait for you to get all the nuts and bolts tight. If the shifting isn't correct, drop the lower unit and start over( remember to put the shifter back in fwd before your helper gets out of the boat)
 
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